CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

Seems like I run into something else wrong every day.

First things first.

WTF IS THIS THING?





okay, i disconnected this one time while fixing the solenoid/oilchange incident.

I should of paid attention how to assemble it again. Does this look correctly done?




Third part of this post. Why does my radiator.......have no radiator cap? How does one check the level of the coolant? Teh add coolant light came on the other day while driving.





Fourth part of this post. Audio problems. The car didn't come with a cd player, so I bought one off a guy on a local car forum. I went to Circuit City and bought a harness kit for it. i connected the thing up...but there are some wires not connected still, where do they go? (This is the grounding wire, i already taped two ends together, but what are these other two for?)


the previous owner said he had a aftermarket pioneer cd player and it worked fine, but it was stolen and they took the harness for it. I bought a JVC unit mp3/rw playaable.

Does this look hooked up correctly?


Is there anything I'm missing from this picture? Besides the obvious.

Etrips

no idea about the first Q.... My battery terminal looks the same on my 7... there should be a coolant resivoir in front of the radiator, check to make sure its properly full according to the marks on the side of it. Might want to get a new radiator cap guy :/ As for the head unit... does it work? In my car I know I have some wires that arent used and it works fine.

TurboIIRyan

your rad cap is the cap ontop of teh thermostat neck. That is where you fill it.

cluosborne

In regard to the audio, there is at least one wire that isn't used. You see, Mazda has their head units illumination tied on what seems to be a separate circuit, so you have illumination+ and illumination ground (the ground not being used).

As long as the headunit itself works, with working illumination, speakers, antenna, etc, you should just tape up the remaining wires and leave them alone.

BTW, the wiring shown in the pics looks good, and the circuit city harness is very easy to work with. It saves a lot of time hooking a new headunit up, thought the length is a bit much, but not bad at all.

7droptop

iTrader: (1)

the other ground wires are not stock wires they look to be added looks like there are a few wires cut fron the stock harness may want to connect them up the best thing to do is test the wires to determine if they are all doing what they are suppose to do make sure switched is power with key in acc constant self explanitory and if all else fails on the ground you can always just run a new ground to the chasis after that make sure all speakers are in phase . I run into this all the time i am a mecp certified install tech that works for a large chain and alot of times people bring me hacked up cars and i have to trouble shoot them main thigs are to find the power side first and then the speakers less chance for shorting out if you have anymore ?'s about audio just ask thats what i do for a living

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

not filler cap, the radiator cap. in my s4, there was a cap ontop of the radiator itself and one by the thermostat.

right now my cd player turns on and plays the cd, but i get no sound!!! What might be the problem? Circuit city saying i pretty much have to get a new amp and new speakers to go with it.

nobody knows what the that thing is in my car?

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

Bump

Jaared

my s4 tii has the same radiator setup as the one in the pic. fill and check from the one cap. Remember to bleed it tho from the black plastic plug where the hose goes into the radiator. Air in the lines can cause problems.

i never figured out my stock radio harness... i belw a few fuses messing with it and decided to run new wires for it all.

All and all it seems that you are missing a turbo and turbo accessories.

Kenteth

The thing I think you're refering to is the fuel resistor relay pack. It swaps fuel pump voltage 9.6ish to 12ish depending on load. Its designed to increase the life of the fuel pump. Also, the relay pack ties into the ECU and back to the MAF so that if the MAF sense a no-air-flow situation, it cuts power to the fuel pump. (Basicaly so if your engine dies, the fuel pump shuts off, this avoids big *** fires incase of an accident.)
Its just a wire distributor, so long as the wires are making solid connection and aren't flopping around, its fine.
The radiator cap is on the coolant fill neck. There are two reasons the add coolant light came on: 1) add coolant... duh or 2) theres an air buble in the coolant system thats getting pushed about, whenever it hits the sensor, the light comes on. Theres a process to bleed the coolant system of any air bubles/pockets if you're really interested. Mainly just check to makesure there really is fluid in there and you're not running dry.
Thats a ******* mess just like 95% of the FC's with aftermarket stereos, which is about 95% of FC's The best way to check if you have it wired correctly is comptence (your confidence in wiring.) The second best way is to add a fuse to protect the circuit, and plug it in.

When I did my stereo install, I had to go by each wire and identify it using a troubleshooting process. Basicaly a 9volt battery to see which speaker it went to. A couple months later I rewired everything when the stock amps decided hell no.

BTW: You might be in for a suprise if the old owner didn't make attempts to bypass the old stock amps.

Goodluck.


EDIT: two other things that you MUST have for your FC.

1) Multimeter. Find out what it is, find out how to use it, never ask another wiring question again.
2) Soldering Iron. Never use tape to hold wires together again. This = shorts which = bad things to happen with old stock wiring.

Kenteth

And where do those two extra wires originate from? If they are the stereo from circ city, what are the lead color wires.

If they are from behind the console, just cover them tightly with tape so they won't short on anything. So long as the stereo works, it shouldn't be any worries.

CyborgRyu

iTrader: (8)

the fuel relay resistor pack is making noises ever since I reconnected my battery terminal. it makes a ticking sound whenever i use anything electrical in the car.

Kenteth

The ticking is relay chatter. (relay opening and closing more than it should.)

Basicaly it will click once to open, once to close. If its constant (fast..tickticktick) clicking, it means its seeing an inconsistant switching voltage. The switching voltage is what tells the relay to be either open or closed. If for some reason that voltage is inconsistent, or shorting, it can cause relay chatter.

Anyhow, the fuel relay resistor pack would click once (stock) on theses occasions:

1) Key turned from off to on when fuel priming (done whenever you remove the fuel lines--Fuel prime jumper).
2) Key turned from on to start. Car starting (starter is turning, key is in start position)
3) Will click if the engine stalls.
4) Will click if you clutch/pop-start the engine
5) Will click when switching from 9ish volts to 12ish volts (load dependant, see FSM).