The ECU is located under the carpet in the passenger side where the feet would rest on the upslope. The scuff plate and kicker panel needs to be removed, carpet rolled/folded over, remove silver protective panel (4 nuts, 2 low and 2 higher up) and the ECU is found underneath it. Pin 2I is the middle plug, top row, 5th from either the right or left as it is the middle pin, Green/White wire. I suggest you measure it w/key to on when the car is cold (2 to 3 volts) and then w/key to on/or engine running actually and fully warmed up (.4 to .5 volts). Use one of the ECU mounting bolts (2 in front to choose from) for the voltage meter ground and the red meter lead firmly placed into the back of the pin location specified.

 

I might try this in a little bit tonight. If the readings are not in spec, what would be the next step? And if they are in spec??

 

You should really make sure your coolant seals aren't blown before messing with the fuel system.
One crank and if it explodes then you know the problem.
I went through my whole fuel system in my s4 and then finally had to deal with the facts.
My engine was blown.

 

You would test the Thermosensor according to the FSM by lowering it into water and checking the resistance. If that checks out okay then you would test the resistance on the Green/White wire between the sensor plug and the ECU.

Page 46
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf

 

Page 46 is secondary air injection...?

 

Please look at the bottom of page 46!

 

You talking about step 12 and 13? OR Relief Solenoid Valve..? And if your talking about step 12 and 13, what port is air not supposed to be getting into about those rpms?

 

You're obviously not looking at page 46. What's the deal? 46 falls between 45 and 47 right where it needs to be. I really don't get it.

 

Obviously something went wrong the 8 times i tried page 46 because when i typed page 46 in the box it took me to page 45 but labeled it 46 in the search box... Sorry for the trouble, i didn't know the pages were labeled at the bottom of them and don't understand why it took me a page short when i type in 46, but i got it now

 

I had the same problem on mine it would run fine and then act up exactly how you describe disconnect the solenoid valve that has the white dot on top or white connector its the one to the bottom right corner and it will run perfect i just left it disconnected try that should be your problem

 

SATCH: Not calling you out just letting you know i'm speaking to you haha.
Ok, i tested the thermo sensor in water at the correct temps, it checks out good. Tested the ECU pin 2I engine cold, engine hot.. It also checks out.. Problem was worse today, engine wasn't even to warm mode yet (guessing by needle position) and it started cutting out around 4k rpm full throttle but felt sluggish up until that point when throttle was WO. If i ease into it, it feels a little better. I double even triple cheked the TPS again today and it is still good and adjusted properly. Today with outside air temp around 40-50* i could not get the car to accel passed 40mph with full engine temp at any throttle % passed about 15% BUT if i shut the engine off for approximately 30 seconds, the car would act like i just started it in the morning, engine cold and would run a little better and get up to about 4-5k without cut out, maybe even higher, but still felt a little sluggish compared to what it has ran at full power before. But shortly after starting the car again it would go back to normal habits and cut out/almost die if i brought throttle passed 15% (approximately)... Stumped on this completely. Know of anyway to test the Air flow meter?

 

Willing to try anything.. Will try that now. Getting hard to get to work and home from. Already got a ride lined up for tomorrow just in case haha. I have diagrams and books about everything on this car almost but i just can't put my finger on it. (havent been through all the info i have though. Maybe now would be a good time to start reading...)

 

Well it's good to know it isn't the Thermosensor I guess. Perhaps this problem is a function of a clogged cat but now it's your turn to state that your car doesn't have a cat. Either way maybe a quick check of the Boost/Pressure sensor is in order. All you have to do is remove the vacuum hose from the sensor and cap it off and then take the car for a drive.

 

My car still does have cats. There is a small exhaust leak coming from one actually, but it is at the flange and not like a hole in it. Would a clogged cat allow it to run normalish and get worse as it heats?

 

Yea know what you mean i was going crazy couldnt find the problem changed everything from the air meter to injectors and one day i disconected all the plugs from the solenoids and it worked fine and started to plug them in one by on till i found the one that was messing up

 

What does the white Solenoid control? I have a blue, yellow, orange and Gray one.. Looks gray, might used to have been white. Unplugged it, no change. I have been told by a few other more experienced techs at work, it is Clogged Cats. What i don't understand is that one time ill pull out and the car will feel fine, and the next after a stop light, it runs like crap from then on. Never dealt with bad cats before, is this a sign??

 

Read through the posts related to clogged cats and see if you find some similarities with your experience.

https://www.rx7club.com/search.php?searchid=9181506

 

clogged cat would be running like crap all the time on mine it would run fine warm up and it would start boggin out when i pushed the gas in mine and when i turned it off and on again it would run fine for a couple of seconds then act up again just disconnect all the solenoid plugs and see what happens was an s5 though

 

i dont know if the colors are different from s5 to s4 but they prob are i dont remember what my friend told me the solenoid was for but it gets stuck open and is only supposed to open when you have the car revd up high so it pressurizes the fuel tank i believe. you can start your car and check which one is pulling air thought the little filter none of them should be pulling air in when its on idle

 

I think i may have got the problem figured out and solved. My Walbro pump i think has been killed but the rust in the tank... When i put the Pump in the car has sat for over a year, and the bottom of the tank looked ok as to age. I'm guessing as i got the car running again and fuel in and out of the tank many times and vibrations knocked some rust loose and it all found its way into the Fuel Pump baffle. I took the walbro out to check the fuel strainer, let me just say disgusting! covered in what looked to be brownie mix haha. Tried cleaning the strainer and even replacing it with using the walbro, still no fix. Replaced the pump with factory replacement Denso, runs good now. Sorry it was drug on so long, i guess ican say i was in denial of it being the pump because it was brand new a two months ago but seeing as how it was surrounded by about 12oz. of rust that i pulled out of the tank. Cleaned the tank as well as i could with it still on the car with maybe 2 gallons of gas it in, just scooped everthing out. Thanks for all the help and again, sorry i was in Denial of the pump earlier and could have had problem solved about a week ago

 

Hey, we all learn!

There was some good that came out of this thread though! I was keeping up on it because I've got similar problems (had). With the suggestions that were offered let me to look in some places and actually found problems in both! I had a broken clip for the water thermosensor that I knew was bad but had no idea it could cause one problem I was having. I thought my fuel pump was dying.

Then looked at the double throttle system for another particular problem and found a broken delay/one way valve on the line! Probly never would have found that until I pulled the whole thing out to put it's motor into another car about 6 months from now! I hope putting a new one in there will help my cold start issues. I didn't know about this system until now!

Wow!

 

I had the same problem with my car. In the baffle where the pump sits, was about 3 inches of loose rust at the bottom.

I just pulled the pump and cleaned the sock with carb cleaner. Drained the tank and scooped all the rust out. Then I flushed line of rusty goop and replaced the filter.

Good ad new.