Need torque
10-23-05, 04:52 PM
#1
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
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Need torque
How can I get more low RPM torque out of my 86 N/A? It's so gutless that it takes careful planning when overtaking cars on the highway, or trying to accelerate from a dead stop. I'm used to my 88 Jetta with the 8 valve 4 cylinder. It's the base model engine, but it's so much more fun to drive because it has torque available at all rpm ranges.
I know the RX7 is more of a performance and sports car so it's not going to be as user friendly or easy, but is there any way that I can get the engine to have more *****?
I'm guessing a supercharger is the only way to really do it right. Let me know if i'm wrong.
I know the RX7 is more of a performance and sports car so it's not going to be as user friendly or easy, but is there any way that I can get the engine to have more *****?
I'm guessing a supercharger is the only way to really do it right. Let me know if i'm wrong.
10-24-05, 03:15 PM
#7
Where did my 7 go?
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Since you have that interesting RPM activated ports system, check and make sure the actuators aren't stuck in the 'down' position, and that they do move when you rev the engine. That will severly limit your low-end torque. When I took a look at them the other day, I though I saw them up, but i'm not sure.
Matt
Matt
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10-24-05, 03:48 PM
#10
knowledge junkie
We're assuming that's a 5 speed stickshift.
Dyno the car and post the results. If you're rated at 160HP, you should expect 136 Rear Wheel Horsepower. If you're rated at 140hp, you should expect 120 Rear Wheel Horsepower.
Full upgrades to intake, full exhaust (headers, midpipe, catback), and a Racing Catalytic Converter will make a HUGE difference assuming your car is running properly.
Dyno the car and post the results. If you're rated at 160HP, you should expect 136 Rear Wheel Horsepower. If you're rated at 140hp, you should expect 120 Rear Wheel Horsepower.
Full upgrades to intake, full exhaust (headers, midpipe, catback), and a Racing Catalytic Converter will make a HUGE difference assuming your car is running properly.
10-24-05, 03:51 PM
#11
Super Raterhater
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Just what RPM band are you trying to pass in? I usually use 4th, and every once in a while i'll hit 3rd if I'm really trying to do it in a hurry, but there's never usually any problem getting it done.
10-24-05, 05:10 PM
#15
Rotary Freak
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wtf is this question asked a lot or what!??!?!
two easy options-
1) change your rear ends final drive / ring gear to a higher number so you have more power at lower speeds.
2) increase displacement... the LS1 v8 swap is common and a modern alternative to the rare and expensive 20b swap.
two easy options-
1) change your rear ends final drive / ring gear to a higher number so you have more power at lower speeds.
2) increase displacement... the LS1 v8 swap is common and a modern alternative to the rare and expensive 20b swap.
10-24-05, 05:17 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by idsigloo
Turbo Tranny has lower gear ratios which would help with acceleration.
the gear ratios are so close though i don't see it making any difference except in 5th where the NA ratio is rediculous. trying to pass in 5th would be more rediculous though...
edit: you could always look for a gtus rear end, 4.3:1 instead of 4.1:1
Last edited by bingoboy; 10-24-05 at 05:37 PM.
10-24-05, 08:56 PM
#19
No it doesn't.
Look under transmissions. It looks to me that the the Turbo tranny has shorter gears. I noticed it as well when I drove my buddy's T2.
Anyway, I think his car is not running right or he's trying to pass in 5th gear. Make sure the auxilary ports aren't stuck open. Mine are wired open right now (until I finally get this electronic 6PI working) and I notice it definately sucks in 5th gear compared to when they are closed.
Last edited by arghx; 10-24-05 at 09:05 PM.
10-31-05, 12:09 PM
#20
Rotary Freak
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Originally Posted by Jager
No it doesn't.
The rear end ratios are the same also (except for the verts, auto's, or GTUs).
The rear end ratios are the same also (except for the verts, auto's, or GTUs).
10-31-05, 01:54 PM
#21
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
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Your series 4 actuators pull to open, and only under high load.
To test them, run a tube to the actuator, T in a pressure gauge and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
(A cheap boost gauge will do.)
Then reconnect the pressure tube & T in a long tube to inside the cabin, with the gauge on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
You want the to start opening at about 3500, and be fully open at ~4K.
When they stick, it's usually the shaft & not the internal sleeves.
Just work in some penetrating oil where the shaft goes into the LIM.
To see the performance difference, I T’d a “mity-vac” hand pump in the tube near the guage, then did some low end 3rd gear pulls from 1500 to 3500 rpm. The low end time was about 2 seconds faster with the ports closed.
To test them, run a tube to the actuator, T in a pressure gauge and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
(A cheap boost gauge will do.)
Then reconnect the pressure tube & T in a long tube to inside the cabin, with the gauge on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
You want the to start opening at about 3500, and be fully open at ~4K.
When they stick, it's usually the shaft & not the internal sleeves.
Just work in some penetrating oil where the shaft goes into the LIM.
To see the performance difference, I T’d a “mity-vac” hand pump in the tube near the guage, then did some low end 3rd gear pulls from 1500 to 3500 rpm. The low end time was about 2 seconds faster with the ports closed.
Last edited by SureShot; 10-31-05 at 02:14 PM.
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