Need some help guys
04-27-03, 08:39 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Piqua, OH
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Need some help guys
88TII
Put my new engine in today, got all the wires hooked up(I think) pretty sure anyways. All vaccuumn lines are accounted for. So I went to start it (with fingers crossed) and I cant get it to fire. I can smell a hint of gas, but I dont hear the fuel pump turning on when I turn the ignition. I also noticed that my dash gauges are not responding as well as my A Pillar guages. Not sure if they are connected or not. Any Ideas???
Jason
Put my new engine in today, got all the wires hooked up(I think) pretty sure anyways. All vaccuumn lines are accounted for. So I went to start it (with fingers crossed) and I cant get it to fire. I can smell a hint of gas, but I dont hear the fuel pump turning on when I turn the ignition. I also noticed that my dash gauges are not responding as well as my A Pillar guages. Not sure if they are connected or not. Any Ideas???
Jason
04-27-03, 08:54 PM
#2
Refined Valley Dude
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Check your fuses, for starters. 
And read this:
And read this:
Originally posted by hypntyz7
I second all that, and have some to add. An engine swap in a 7 is unlike a swap in any other car on the road; you can take a toyota camry and swap in a junkyard motor, and if everything is connected (and sometimes even if it isnt) the bitch will fire on the first turn of the key. Well, even though 2gens are still EFI motors, theyre vastly different, and far from a turnkey swap. Sometimes it takes even someone like myself 2-4 days to get an engine swap to fire up adn run anywhere near right.
The most common things that'll srew you: AFM connector loose or off; large vacuum/intake leak, such as intake tube, BAC tube(s), brake MC hose, etc.; non-connected wires (especially in and around the ecu area), fuel lines backwards (supply off the filter in front on the engine), or no fuel to the engine (fuel pump not running). Depending on what kind of engine swap (longblock, where all the accessories and wiring were not disturbed since it last ran, or shortblock where everything got transferred part by part) you can cause a lot of problems by jostling all that stuff around.
Bottom line, there are no les than 25 things that could be causing your problems, and probably a combination of them. This is the point in time when people on this forum, even those well experienced, wont be of much help to you because we're not standing in front of the car, able to put our hands and testing equipment on it. There are some things you just have to see/hear to figure out; you might call something a knock that I might call a click, etc. etc.
Now on this issue of sparkplugs, it sounds like you may have just screwed yourself there. In your defense I have had plugs that seemed to be fairly tight going in/out before, and they just needed some lube/antisieze. I suggest you remove the plug, use liberal amounts of wd-40 etc. on the threads on the housing, and clean the threads of the plug itself with a wire brush or the like, then apply some oil or antisieze to the threads and slowly put it back in. I have yet to see a plug crossthread in a housing; even though theyre aluminum, theyre made very well/strong and the threads dont just give up without some major torque behind them, which is hard to obtain on a rotary because of the position of the plugs (and your ratchet in the engine bay).
I have gotten engines to run before with one plug totally missing (unbeknownst to me at the time) but it just depends on it's compression on the opposing rotor; having a plug loose would certainly decrease compression on one rotor and cut the chances of it starting in half. You shouldnt *have* to pull the thing either. Usually new (or different sets of used) plugs with some oil/atf in the lower holes will do the trick if nothign else is seriously out of whack. Keep i mind plugs foul easy as hell in a rotary, especially one that has sat for a while, or flooded, etc.
I second all that, and have some to add. An engine swap in a 7 is unlike a swap in any other car on the road; you can take a toyota camry and swap in a junkyard motor, and if everything is connected (and sometimes even if it isnt) the bitch will fire on the first turn of the key. Well, even though 2gens are still EFI motors, theyre vastly different, and far from a turnkey swap. Sometimes it takes even someone like myself 2-4 days to get an engine swap to fire up adn run anywhere near right.
The most common things that'll srew you: AFM connector loose or off; large vacuum/intake leak, such as intake tube, BAC tube(s), brake MC hose, etc.; non-connected wires (especially in and around the ecu area), fuel lines backwards (supply off the filter in front on the engine), or no fuel to the engine (fuel pump not running). Depending on what kind of engine swap (longblock, where all the accessories and wiring were not disturbed since it last ran, or shortblock where everything got transferred part by part) you can cause a lot of problems by jostling all that stuff around.
Bottom line, there are no les than 25 things that could be causing your problems, and probably a combination of them. This is the point in time when people on this forum, even those well experienced, wont be of much help to you because we're not standing in front of the car, able to put our hands and testing equipment on it. There are some things you just have to see/hear to figure out; you might call something a knock that I might call a click, etc. etc.
Now on this issue of sparkplugs, it sounds like you may have just screwed yourself there. In your defense I have had plugs that seemed to be fairly tight going in/out before, and they just needed some lube/antisieze. I suggest you remove the plug, use liberal amounts of wd-40 etc. on the threads on the housing, and clean the threads of the plug itself with a wire brush or the like, then apply some oil or antisieze to the threads and slowly put it back in. I have yet to see a plug crossthread in a housing; even though theyre aluminum, theyre made very well/strong and the threads dont just give up without some major torque behind them, which is hard to obtain on a rotary because of the position of the plugs (and your ratchet in the engine bay).
I have gotten engines to run before with one plug totally missing (unbeknownst to me at the time) but it just depends on it's compression on the opposing rotor; having a plug loose would certainly decrease compression on one rotor and cut the chances of it starting in half. You shouldnt *have* to pull the thing either. Usually new (or different sets of used) plugs with some oil/atf in the lower holes will do the trick if nothign else is seriously out of whack. Keep i mind plugs foul easy as hell in a rotary, especially one that has sat for a while, or flooded, etc.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kruel13
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
24
09-16-15 09:08 AM