san7

Heres the deal, car hasn't ran in 3 months. It stalled out at a stoplight and when trying to restart it shot 3 foot flames out the exhaust and melted my bumper, hee hee. Right in front of a cop!!! Don't worry, he offered to call a tow truck while I was snuffing the exhaust fire out with my shoe. Anyway, pulled the primaries and had them cleaned, sent the computer to get the rtek 1.7, new greddy 720 secondaries, new o2 (was bad), new TPS (had a dead spot), compression is 107-111 all the way around (just tested again yesterday), went bareblock while it was broken because the vac lines were all toast, kept BAC but removed thermowax because the car always had a 1500 rpm idle, tested BAC, tested coils, tested CAS, new FPR, new fuel filter.........

First I could not get it to run after I got all the new stuff in. Turns out I had a primary and secondary injector plug reversed. Now it runs but I have no idle, and when I give it more than 1/4 throttle it bucks. Retested Tps, its good. However, I cannot time it cause it won't idle, so I do not know if its way off or not. Treid a different AFM last night. No change... I am looking for some advise here. Please! I have spark on all 4 plugs, and the plugs are new and wires are correct. Can it be ignitors?? Thats the only thing I cannot check with a DMM. It does have spark, so I am not counting on that one. Checked injector resistors, fuel pump main relay, all is good.
Anyone in San Diego care to make a little side $$ and take a look?? I am starting to wish I never sold my FD. Loosing hope with FC, please help.

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Check for any vac leaks, have u tried push starting it?

san7

I can't really see vacume because I have to have my foot on it to idle. I don't need to push start it, it runs. I does sound like a vacume leak because it starts, revs to 1800 or so, then dies if you don't give it gas. I have replaced and double checked every vac line and block off plate. The only gasket that I have not looked at is the lower intake manifold/block gasket. I have inspected the intake hose to the turbo, even tested the bov for leaks. Really seems like the standard vacume leak because of the start then sputter die deal, but where?? Also, could the map sensor be south. How do you test that? One more thing that just occured to me, do I need any of the lines coming off the intercooler or can they all be blocked off. Right now one is blocked and the other still runs from the upper intake manifold to the intercooler.

san7

FINALLY!!!!!!!! Fixed it. Lower intake manifold is blown, AND the afm rotary ressurection sent me was bad. Swapped the afm off a friends car and got it to idle/hunt from 800-1500. Then I was able to stick a hose to my ear and probe around the engine bay. Front rotor, on the bottom of the lower manifold. Would never have found it without the hose/ear trick. Thanks for all the (sarcasm) advise.

SureShot

san7 - Thanks for the solution post..

san7

Sure thing. Oh and I realized my post was a bit confusing. I have 2 bad AFM's. One I knew had been messed with, possibly a feeble attempt at tuning the car by the previous owner, and a used one I purchased to replace the "tuned" one. Turns out they are both crap.