i put exhaust on my gxl TII and now im running a little lean like 14.3-1 at 13 psi.

i was wondering if i put a resistor in the IAT circuit if that actually do anything or it i just disconnected the senor if it would richin thing up.

or maby even discounting the stock o2 senor to keep the car in open loop.

fyi i am running a fcd, and getting my A/F ration from a aem wide band

 

A resistor will throw off the fuel mix everywhere and will screw up how the car runs. Disconnecting the o2 sensor won't work for several reasons. First, the o2 sensor doesn't trigger open loop mode, it just only operates when the ECU puts it in open loop mode. Second, open loop mode usually means it runs even leaner, which is not what you need.
The only real way to richen it is to get a fuel controller. Just bite the bullet and get a S-AFC before you blow your motor.

 

What else have you done besides the FCD and exhaust? fuel pump?

 

a walbro 255, and im pretty sure open loop is richer for cold start up and i dont know how the rx7 works but on newer cars if you the ecu does not see voltage from the o2 it stays in the open loop and runs rich

 

Upgrade your secondary injectors and add a piggyback to control them. Or use the crude method and run a rising rate FPR.

 

no

 

+1 for Aaron's input. secondaires and a piggyback.

 

If your boosting, then the 02 Will Not be in closed loop. Ain't no way that will ever happen.

Also if your above approx 3700rpm, the 02 will NEVER go into closed loop. Never ever. So, just saying, don't get off an a tangent over the 02 sensors input in your problem. It's not a player much less a bad actor.

Seems you need a SAFC at least and maybe some 680's in the secondary position. Maybe just try the 680's by themselves. 680's are first gen, fuel injected cars injectors.

Curious. What city in Az? If it has some altitude, you could pull the plug on the ATP and that would put the ATP signal to a default of sealevel. That would mean more fuel, but everywhere. Just a semi bandaid til you get something else.

OR, just lower the boost to the 10psi range and under.

 

No, it will on average run slightly richer. It doesn't run "bulk rich" like some seem to think though.

 

im in northen az so pretty high up i will try that, where is the atp at by the way

 

Looks similar to the boost sensor, but no hose on it. Passengers foot well. Up, fwd and to the right. very hard to find. One electrical plug on it. Compare the wires in the wiring diagrams to the one you find.

 

sounds like you have boost creep as well

 

Nope. I bought a few rotary files, a die grinder from Harbour Freight for ten bucks (bought two just in case), and gutted the area around the flap/valve in the turbo. Plus my exhaust is just a 2.5 inch one, not three inch.

The interest in the ATP falls under "I wonder how much effect this jobber has on things" and I messed with it. Plus having a RTEK2.0 gives me the option to use the ATP inpur pin/socket for some other thing other than the ATP and set the altitude of the ATP just about at any altitude I want to. Like I live at 630 ft altitude, I can input a 2000 ft altitude on a 'slider" in the PALM display.

Once I rigged up a potentiometer inline with the output wire and altered the volage output just to see if I could and if it would effect the AFR at idle where I could readily see the effects of different voltages. I wrote a post about that this year.....somewhere.

The ATP wire is GY or G/Y or GREEN/YELLOW or GREEN WITH A YELLOW STRIPE on pin 2H. Just depin that wire is easiest and all that is required.