When the car is running and I unplug any trailing coil wire the car runs the same BUT if I unplug the L2 coil the car stalls out while the opposite happends with L1 (car stays the same)
is my problem a busted coil? which one? and how expensive?

 

L1 and L2 are the same coil. Both plugs fire at the same time. It is possible that your trailing coil is malfunctioning. Unplugging one of the leading plugs allows that rotor to run only on the trailing (though it will run poorly at anything but idle). Unplugging the other leading means the engine will attempt to run on the trailing for that rotor, but fails because that half of the trailing coil is dead.

Honestly, it's just a guess. This is strange behaviour, especially since L1 and L2 are just two halfs of the same coil.

 

so i'll go out and buy just a trailing and see how that works?

 

get new plugs and wires before you do that.

 

ive replaced the wires and plugs already./.

this is what happends


Disconnect trailing electrical connection (trailings completely off)...... car runs....
Disconnect leading electrical connection ... cars runs slower.. but still runs... do they both work??

When I remove the T1 plug from the ignitor the coil arcs between the T1 and T2 coils. this bad?

 

i have working coil packs i can sell you, but make sure thats what you need first

 

Dude, they make something called a timing light, it's this gun looking thingy with a bright flashing light on the end, and it can "tell" you when a particular spark plug wire is firing, so you won't have to guess anymore...There is also a "poor-man's" version of the timing light, refered to and commonly called a flourescent light tube...

 

ive done the timing light test and it shows all firing...(dealership told me this... i just dont believe them because my front rotor plugs are ALWAYS wet when removed... I dont understand it...

When I pull the front plugs the car runs normal of the back rotor ... when I pull the front plugs the car wont even start!!.. I keep thinking its the trailing, but I dont know 100% if im sure..

 

i just want to know before i go blooking to buy another

 

you sure its not a compression problem?, maybe you have weak compression on your back rotor, because i to had a similar problem, and it ended up i had 60psi of compression on my rear rotor

 

Sounds like the ignition system is doing what it's supposed to be doing, but you're flooding the plugs in that particular housing. How long has it been since the injectors were cleaned? Or a compression problem, as Aesop said...

 

This isn't a solution but you could just go ahead and get a multiple spark ignition amp.... get that hotter spark in ther, several times at low rpm and you'd be looking at a better burn.

Otherwise... make sure that your plug wires are not crossed and that your plugs are clean... if you really want, go blow some money on new hotter coils.

 

I have 2 sets of injectors and both were cleaned before installation...

but i cant start my car utilizing my front rotor only... only my back.. I figure it has to be the ignition or fuel/air mixture

 

Can you hear the front primary injector "clicking" with a screwdriver to your ear? If the rear primary is firing, the entire primary circuit should be good. What kind of shape is the electrical connector in for the front primary?

Back to the compression- need to do a check, to rule that out...

 

on the front or back?... I've had the plugs out and listened for 3 solid wooshes..

 

hah new coils from the dealer are $980 bucks each...
I have a junkyard selling them for $50