If you are using a lumbar air pump. Then Im the one that tested both of mine and found the over ehat and stop working.

Your idea would work but you would have to use a 3 way electronic solenoid and check valve. When the air pump engages the solenoid switchs to a configuration that allows the pump to supply pressure to the actuator. Then have the pump shut off and have the solenoid still active or atleast in the same configuration and the check valve would hold the pressure. The check valve would have to be placed BEFORE the 3 way solenoid valve but after the air pump. Then when you go below 3800 or your preset rpm, the 3 way valve opens up in the other configuration to allow the air pressure to escape into the engine bay.

If you can get the RPM switch to control the 2 solenoids and one air pump individually, then you would be able to make it work no problem.

So have the air pump and AUX aolenoid switch on at the same time, then when you hit 5000 or so where the VDI opens, the other solenoid activates allow pressure to that one, then the air pump shuts off and the check valve keeps air pressure. Then as the rpms drop below each point, each solenoid opens up on by one to let out the pressure.

Now I see one possible problem with what I said above, if you go above 3800 and the pump opens the aux, then using the same pump to open up the VDI at 5000, you may get a pressure drop cause the aux to close slightly till both aux and VDI open up fully. This would cause a power drop at WOT. Also, I wouldn't have the solenoids open up when you let off the throttle since if you get back on the throttle you have to wait for the pressure to build again.

The lumbar pump can hold about 5-6 psi. I have not tested it to see if it can open both VDI and AUX yet so you may want to try that and see if you need 2 pumps.

The pump its self, if you are using a lumbar air pump, does not hold air pressure. Its has its own bleeder valve as I call it so that extra air pressure bleeds off.

 

The pump actually already has a check valve that is connected to it, but I disconnected it for the way I currently have it run. I am also using 2 separate air pumps since it is kinda laggy if it is trying to open the aux and VDI. The stock check valve works very well. It actually held the pressure to the VDI for over a week with no leakage at all. It just has another wire that activates it. In stock function, when you add air the check valve opens and the air pump activates. When you stop the valve closes and the pump stops. When you release air the valve opens. I was actually going to attempt to have the pump operate for say 2 seconds then stop and the valve close until it goes under the trigger rpm, when it opens. It could take some programming to achieve this, but it should be doable. Like I said, it will take more research, which I don't really have time for right now, before I can determine exactly how I will do it.

 

What type of pump and check valve are you using?

I suppose you could use 2 way valves and use them as check valves and open them to release pressure when the pump is off. Since we have 3 way valves on the car already, its cheaper to use them.

 

The vast majority of readers are there for answers to questions, and those that can provide info usually don't realize they can go ahead and do so; it's gaining momentum as people catch on.

Awesome, PM sent. It's as easy as posting on the forum. Check here for website info and links at the bottom: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=208&co=1&vi=1

 

I am using the lumbar pump from a mid-late 90's Crown Vic. In a cruel twist of fate one of them is actually scavenged from a wrecked cop car
I know for a fact that some Mustangs have them as well (my '89 LX 5.0 had it) but I haven't found any in the junk yard yet. I'll try to post a pic of it with the check valve tomorrow or something, but I gotta start getting to bed. Waking up at 6 AM sucks ***...

 

Ah ok, thats why you have that check valve. I got mine new off ebay, so now check valve for me.

 

Why not use a linear actuator?

Just use an RPM switch, a relay, and a linear actuator.

I haven't done this, but it is something I have looked into. (it seems very simple and no pumps to worry about.)

Rob

 

You talking about this?
http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=46&co=1&vi=1