Need Help. Rebuild or Swap? Which one is good for my NA 87?
Need Help. Rebuild or Swap? Which one is good for my NA 87?
My engine I believe is time to change. I don't know do the swap or rebuild. Swap, I am affaird people not doing well and the parts may be used and old.
I am not sure if I rebuild the engine. How many miles it still run. If NA, I wanna know which part I can tune to be faster. Cause my mind always think Turbo is easier to broke down and hard to take care.
Any FC memeber or professional can slove my problem? I am very appeciate. Cause I really Love Rotary and FC.
Thanks alot.
I am not sure if I rebuild the engine. How many miles it still run. If NA, I wanna know which part I can tune to be faster. Cause my mind always think Turbo is easier to broke down and hard to take care.
Any FC memeber or professional can slove my problem? I am very appeciate. Cause I really Love Rotary and FC.
Thanks alot.
I think I understand. Here's your three basic options.
First, how long are you going to be keeping the car. Second, what do you use it for?
If you are going to be keeping it a long time, and using it for a daily driver, a reman from Mazda is the best bet. I have one and it has 78,000 on it and is still going strong.
If you are mechanically inclined and don't need it as a daily driver, rebuilding it yourself is a fun, although lengthy project. If you're not mechanically inclined, and don't have good friends who are, skip this option entirely. Results vary, based on your ability to throw cash and talent at the problem. For instance, you'll have to be good at using a mircometer to check the engine housing and maybe have money to replace them, if they are out of spec. Same with the rotors if they are badly gouged.
If you are really down on cash and have to go with the swap, well, I'd say you have to be lucky. Very lucky. You'd be better off finding a new car and having a compression test done, particularly if you really have to depend on that car.
Let's look at the math. A good car that you can verify compression is worth maybe $3,500 to $4,500. A reman installed by a Mazda dealer or some other shop is going to cost you $3-$4,500. A simple rebuild kit is going to run you about $1,300. If you run into problems, you are looking at $2,300. A junk yard swap, well, maybe $500 - maybe a little less in the south.
How good is the car and how much do you have in it?
First, how long are you going to be keeping the car. Second, what do you use it for?
If you are going to be keeping it a long time, and using it for a daily driver, a reman from Mazda is the best bet. I have one and it has 78,000 on it and is still going strong.
If you are mechanically inclined and don't need it as a daily driver, rebuilding it yourself is a fun, although lengthy project. If you're not mechanically inclined, and don't have good friends who are, skip this option entirely. Results vary, based on your ability to throw cash and talent at the problem. For instance, you'll have to be good at using a mircometer to check the engine housing and maybe have money to replace them, if they are out of spec. Same with the rotors if they are badly gouged.
If you are really down on cash and have to go with the swap, well, I'd say you have to be lucky. Very lucky. You'd be better off finding a new car and having a compression test done, particularly if you really have to depend on that car.
Let's look at the math. A good car that you can verify compression is worth maybe $3,500 to $4,500. A reman installed by a Mazda dealer or some other shop is going to cost you $3-$4,500. A simple rebuild kit is going to run you about $1,300. If you run into problems, you are looking at $2,300. A junk yard swap, well, maybe $500 - maybe a little less in the south.
How good is the car and how much do you have in it?
Oh, and I forgot to ask. Why do you think it is time to replace the engine? Have you had a compression test done by a Mazda shop with the proper compression tester? If it has even remotely decent compression, there's no sense in rebuilding an engine in a car that old. There's a lot of stuff that can go wrong with the components around the engine that can put this car out of commission.
Thanks for everybody
Actually, my miles is 155,000. Since i bought it, it never rebuit. Cause I really love my car and wanna keep it for daily drive. I try to ask for some swap, seriously in L.A a lot of people try to make money and may get the swap from action and sell it like JDM. I like turbo2 but it really hard to find a good store and good swap to do it. also my budge is around $3500-$4000.
on the other hand, if i just rebuild, i wanna know which part i can tuned to push my car can have 200hp?
Thanks for your time and really really appeciate eveybody
on the other hand, if i just rebuild, i wanna know which part i can tuned to push my car can have 200hp?
Thanks for your time and really really appeciate eveybody
200 HP is possible but with 155,000 miles on the chasis, I see stuff breaking all over the place. You are talking major bucks building a car up to take that sort of abuse. $4,000 would probably put a new reman in and maybe fix a couple of other small issues if you find the right garage. Then you'd have a decent daily driver assuming there's not anything else wearing out. My 2gen has 163,000 miles. It's been a tough car. Brakes and mufflers are the only thing I've had to replace beside the engine.
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My body is ok, but need to get a paint job. If everthings fine I am gonna put a body kit on it. Actually, I don't understand if i send the engine for rebuilt, is it means clean it up and change the new rotor or somethings like that? I wanna know if for NA which part I have tune can get 200HP?At least I hope my car can be faster then a V6 accord.......
I believe my tranmisson and rotor is time to change. Cause when I put the gear 4 to gear 3 is not that smooth. When 1000rpm-3000rpm I always hear so "gi gi gi" sound from my car, but i am not sure where is came from. I send to the auto shop but they can't tell cause they don't know how to fix and detail for RX7
I believe my tranmisson and rotor is time to change. Cause when I put the gear 4 to gear 3 is not that smooth. When 1000rpm-3000rpm I always hear so "gi gi gi" sound from my car, but i am not sure where is came from. I send to the auto shop but they can't tell cause they don't know how to fix and detail for RX7
You really need to do more research before spending the sort of money you are thinking about spending. Read through the archives. Look for a book on RX-7 performance tuning. It is titled "Mazda RX-7 Perfromance Handbook" by Mike Ancas. They have it at Barnes and Noble or Borders. If they don't have it, they can order it for you. Price is $21.95. It won't tell you how to do things, but it will tell you what can be done to achieve a certain level of performance.
If your goal is to beat up on Hondas, I personally think an 87 N/A is not the way to go. You are going to spend a fortune making that happen and then for what? You'll have $10,000 invested in a car that has almost no retail value. Even marginally modified V-6 Accords are capable of 0-60 times in the 6.6 second range. A stockish 87 RX-7 isn't going to do much better than 7.7 seconds at stock 146 HP. You can up it to 200 HP and yes, you'll get 6.5 seconds on the 0-60. But what do you have to do? Probably new injectors, porting, fuel pump, ECU, full exhaust. Better do that rebuild and tranny before you start. I'd guess $9-$10,000. Add the cost of your body kit and new paint job, and well that's a dumb investment. You'll have $14,000 invested before you know it. As a more reasonable alternative, I'd buy a good 3rd Gen, have it compression tested and make sure the rotors all exceed 96. It will set you back $15,000 but then you'd have a car that no ricer Honda would even think of racing. Saves you big on court costs. LOL.
If you are still intent on doing the 87, putting a reman into a car would basically give you a new engine. Mazda basically replaces everything that wears out and very thoroughly checks clearances and condition of everything else. The alternative is to rebuild it where a credible local shop would replace all of the parts that usually wear out, including all of the seals. They'll check endplates for warpage. Replacing rotors, endplates cost extra, if they are out of spec. It can be slightly cheaper than a reman but simple rebuilds here in the states don't have a good reputation for holding together. Average longevity in this situation is a little more than 10,000 -20,000 miles, based on the way people trash their cars on this forum.
Here's an alternative. If you are not really, rich, I'd save up some money for a dependable daily driver. Yes, a Honda - they run forever. You can keep the 87 and work on it as you have money. Maybe even do the rebuild yourself, once you've learned a little about tools and mechanics. It would be a long term project, but it would be more affordable.
If your goal is to beat up on Hondas, I personally think an 87 N/A is not the way to go. You are going to spend a fortune making that happen and then for what? You'll have $10,000 invested in a car that has almost no retail value. Even marginally modified V-6 Accords are capable of 0-60 times in the 6.6 second range. A stockish 87 RX-7 isn't going to do much better than 7.7 seconds at stock 146 HP. You can up it to 200 HP and yes, you'll get 6.5 seconds on the 0-60. But what do you have to do? Probably new injectors, porting, fuel pump, ECU, full exhaust. Better do that rebuild and tranny before you start. I'd guess $9-$10,000. Add the cost of your body kit and new paint job, and well that's a dumb investment. You'll have $14,000 invested before you know it. As a more reasonable alternative, I'd buy a good 3rd Gen, have it compression tested and make sure the rotors all exceed 96. It will set you back $15,000 but then you'd have a car that no ricer Honda would even think of racing. Saves you big on court costs. LOL.
If you are still intent on doing the 87, putting a reman into a car would basically give you a new engine. Mazda basically replaces everything that wears out and very thoroughly checks clearances and condition of everything else. The alternative is to rebuild it where a credible local shop would replace all of the parts that usually wear out, including all of the seals. They'll check endplates for warpage. Replacing rotors, endplates cost extra, if they are out of spec. It can be slightly cheaper than a reman but simple rebuilds here in the states don't have a good reputation for holding together. Average longevity in this situation is a little more than 10,000 -20,000 miles, based on the way people trash their cars on this forum.
Here's an alternative. If you are not really, rich, I'd save up some money for a dependable daily driver. Yes, a Honda - they run forever. You can keep the 87 and work on it as you have money. Maybe even do the rebuild yourself, once you've learned a little about tools and mechanics. It would be a long term project, but it would be more affordable.
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