Need help and parts for tranny swap
10-02-03, 01:20 PM
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Need help and parts for tranny swap
I have a 91 rx with a a/t. I want to convert to a m/t. Can any one tell me excactly what I'll need and does any one have these parts I need up for sell. As for the m/t, which one is the best to go with and/or does anyone have a m/t they could possibly let go for some dough
Since I'm new at this whole world of rx-7's and rotory engines can anyone explain to me all the terms so I'm not so rx-rotory-mazda illiterate, for example s4, s5, fc
Clearly I need help
Since I'm new at this whole world of rx-7's and rotory engines can anyone explain to me all the terms so I'm not so rx-rotory-mazda illiterate, for example s4, s5, fc Clearly I need help
10-02-03, 01:40 PM
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S4 would be 2nd gen Rx-7 Made from 86-88
Series 5 is made from 89-91. FC is just a term derived from FC3S... This is the whole 2nd gen. FD3S is the newer Rx-7's (3rd gen 93-95)
This is from Rotary Ressurection:
Parts List:
1. Pedal set with clutch and brake
2. clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
3. shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
4. driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
5. starter from 5speed nonturbo
6. automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
7. crossmember adaptor, see below for instructions on how to make this. I no longer offer them to the public except in conversions I am performing personally.
8. speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft by one 10mm bolt)
9. nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
10. clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
11. Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1 rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed. IF you do decide to swap the rearend to the 5sp one (4.1), be sure to keep the 4.1 (gray) speedo calibration gear in the tranny.
Making the AT> 5speed crossmember adaptor:
I used to offer these for sale, but it became more trouble than it was worth having to explain it time after time, going through drills and drillbits, finding a supply of channel iron, etc.I now only make them for conversions I am performing personally. I will now offer the instructions for this adaptor to the public to allow you to make your own.
What you’ll need:
1)3” width channel (U shape) iron, cut to an 8” length.
2) drillpress (or a lot of patience with a hand drill)
3) quality drillbits up to _” dia.
How to make it:
Find the centerline of the iron, along it’s length (1.5” is center). Mark this line. Now come out from one end approx 1.5” and make a mark there. How far from the end you mark isn’t important so long as its within _” either way. Now, **from this mark** , measure exactly 5-1/8” along the centerline and make another mark. Now, where you have the 2 X’s, drill 2 holes _” diameter. You’ll of course have to start with smaller pilot holes and work your way gradually up with larger bits. Once this is done, the adaptor is complete.
How to use it:
You’ll need some misc. large washers, and a long, thick bolt and nut, in addition to making a spacer equivalent in height to the original 5sp tranny mount bushing (IIRC approx 1-3/4”)(or use the bushing itself), along with the nut that used to hold the 5sp mount onto the trans. You’ll remove the 5sp tranny mount, leaving only a “Y” shaped piece of metal with a long stud sticking down. You’ll remove the AT crossmember from the old tranny and loosely bolt it back into it’s original position in the car. With the trans. in place, jack it up, and you’ll see what needs to be done. The long bolt, nut, and washers are for the AT xmember-to-adaptor point, and the spacer with nut go up front on the new 5sp trans. IT is normal not to have much room at the bottom of the stud for the nut to thread onto, but you should be able to tighten it sufficiently so that the setup does not move while still obtaining proper shifter height (inside the car).
Procedures for the swap:
1. Pull your exhaust and shields.
2. Disconect your battery.
3. Pull your driveshaft, drain the transmission, and disconnect the shifter linkage.
4. Remove the shifter assembly inside the car.
5. Drop the transmission crossmember then unbolt the starter, bellhousing and remove torque convertor bolts.
6. Disconect all wiring, remove the tranny cooler lines from the side of the engine and radiator, disconnect the vacuum lead from the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold on the engine and plug this nipple on the manifold now so you dont forget. Disconnect the AT dipstick from the intake.
7. Drop the tranny trying to keep the torque convertor inside it.
8. Remove the AT flexplate and counterweight using the 2 1/8 socket and impact wrench. A swift and hefty whack with a sledge on the outer edge of the counterweight usually loosens it up.
9. Install the flywheel and torque to 350 ft-lb.
10. Install the clutch components, then the 5sp transmission. Be sure to lube and clean the input shaft splines.
11. Install the 5sp starter.
12. IF your 5sp tranny has its crossmember still intact, remove it, leaving the large mounting stud.
13. Loosely mount the aotumatic crossmember in its original position. This will leave you with an open hole in the AT x-member, and a mounting stud on the 5sp tranny.
14. Use the adaptor and bolt up the transmission to the AT x-member, and tighten all bolts.
15. Install the driveshaft.
16. Swap speedo gears in the transmission tailshaft. This ensures your speedo stays accurate because the rearend ratios in most 5sp and AT cars are different. You want to use the gear that was in your old AT tranny. You can also consider swapping the rearend as discussed above.
17. Bolt up the exhaust.
18. Fill the tranny with gear oil.
19. Modify the wiring for the reverse lights. In 86-8 cars, you'll need to find the 3 prong white gang plug still in the car. 2 of these 3 wires actuate the reverse lights...one is a supply, and one a return. There is a simple switch on the 5sp tranny, the 2 red wires. Extend these 2 red wires and attatch them to these 2 prongs in the plug to make the lights work. The switch simply allows the supply to pass through and actuate the return power, which leads to the lights. It does not matter which wire from the switch goes to which, its a simple on/off switch polarity does not matter. For 89-91 cars, you need to run your own power lead from a switched power supply such as the fusebox. Connect it to one of the red wires. Then extend the other one to the 3 wire plug, top prong(by itself) to complete the circuit.
20. Modify the starter wiring. For now you'll leave off the stock trigger wire, the smaller of the 2 starter wires. Cut a 6 foot length of 14 gage wire, attatch the proper terminal, and run it through the firewall for later connection to the ignition switch. This is necessary because you need to bypass the stock automatic tranny safety devices...park and neutral safety lockouts. The car will not start without doing this.
21. If working on a 89-91 car youll need to get inside the passenger kick panel. There will be a metal box called EC-AT or EAT. IT is the electronic transmission's computer. Once the AT is removed this MUST be disconnected for the car to run right. Just unplug it and go on. IT will stop the "HOLD" light from flashing as well.
22. Install the 5sp shifter parts.
23. Remove the pedals. Youll have to remove the steering column to do this. There are many 12mm bolts under the dash and on the firewall that hold the pedals in. The brake master cylinder and booster assembly must also be nearly removed to clear the pedals. Install the new pedals and reinstall the steering column.
24. For the ignition switch wires, leave one disconnected...it is thick, black with a red stripe, and the only wire on it's plug. Find your starter trigger wire you ran earlier, and connect it to this wire...the end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch. This bypasses all the automatic interlocks that will keep you from starting. IF you wish to have a functional clutch pedal interlock, find the clutch pedal switch and first run your starter wire through that, then into the ignition switch.
25. Locate the stock AT ignition lockout cable that ran from the old shifter to the ignition cylinder. Youll want to disconnect it at the cylinder, where it is held on by a single 10mm nut underneatht eh cylinder. IF not done, this will keep you from being able to remove the key.
26. Remove the blockoff plate from the firewall for the clutch MC. Install the new clutch MC, slave cylinder and lines, and bleed if necessary.
27. Start the car and make necessary idle adjustments. Dont be alarmed that this is required, the AT and MT cars are set up slightly differently from the factory, and youll have to alter this to get it running smooth and driveable.
28. Enjoy your new 5sp car.
Series 5 is made from 89-91. FC is just a term derived from FC3S... This is the whole 2nd gen. FD3S is the newer Rx-7's (3rd gen 93-95)
This is from Rotary Ressurection:
Parts List:
1. Pedal set with clutch and brake
2. clutch slave cylinder, master cylinder, and lines
3. shifter parts, with boots and shifter bushings
4. driveshaft from 5 speed nonturbo
5. starter from 5speed nonturbo
6. automatic transmission crossmember(from your old auto tranny)
7. crossmember adaptor, see below for instructions on how to make this. I no longer offer them to the public except in conversions I am performing personally.
8. speedo calibration gear from your old auto tranny(held on the tailshaft by one 10mm bolt)
9. nonturbo flywheel to fit your year of engine(86-8 or 89-91)
10. clutch parts (disc, PP, TOB, PB)
11. Also consider that most automatic cars use a 3.9 rearend ratio while most 5sp cars use a 4.1 ratio. Keeping the stock 3.9 will result in slightly lower acceleration but better mileage and top speed. Swapping to a 4.1 rearend gives normal acceleration but poorer mileage and top speed. IF you do decide to swap the rearend to the 5sp one (4.1), be sure to keep the 4.1 (gray) speedo calibration gear in the tranny.
Making the AT> 5speed crossmember adaptor:
I used to offer these for sale, but it became more trouble than it was worth having to explain it time after time, going through drills and drillbits, finding a supply of channel iron, etc.I now only make them for conversions I am performing personally. I will now offer the instructions for this adaptor to the public to allow you to make your own.
What you’ll need:
1)3” width channel (U shape) iron, cut to an 8” length.
2) drillpress (or a lot of patience with a hand drill)
3) quality drillbits up to _” dia.
How to make it:
Find the centerline of the iron, along it’s length (1.5” is center). Mark this line. Now come out from one end approx 1.5” and make a mark there. How far from the end you mark isn’t important so long as its within _” either way. Now, **from this mark** , measure exactly 5-1/8” along the centerline and make another mark. Now, where you have the 2 X’s, drill 2 holes _” diameter. You’ll of course have to start with smaller pilot holes and work your way gradually up with larger bits. Once this is done, the adaptor is complete.
How to use it:
You’ll need some misc. large washers, and a long, thick bolt and nut, in addition to making a spacer equivalent in height to the original 5sp tranny mount bushing (IIRC approx 1-3/4”)(or use the bushing itself), along with the nut that used to hold the 5sp mount onto the trans. You’ll remove the 5sp tranny mount, leaving only a “Y” shaped piece of metal with a long stud sticking down. You’ll remove the AT crossmember from the old tranny and loosely bolt it back into it’s original position in the car. With the trans. in place, jack it up, and you’ll see what needs to be done. The long bolt, nut, and washers are for the AT xmember-to-adaptor point, and the spacer with nut go up front on the new 5sp trans. IT is normal not to have much room at the bottom of the stud for the nut to thread onto, but you should be able to tighten it sufficiently so that the setup does not move while still obtaining proper shifter height (inside the car).
Procedures for the swap:
1. Pull your exhaust and shields.
2. Disconect your battery.
3. Pull your driveshaft, drain the transmission, and disconnect the shifter linkage.
4. Remove the shifter assembly inside the car.
5. Drop the transmission crossmember then unbolt the starter, bellhousing and remove torque convertor bolts.
6. Disconect all wiring, remove the tranny cooler lines from the side of the engine and radiator, disconnect the vacuum lead from the back of the passenger side of the intake manifold on the engine and plug this nipple on the manifold now so you dont forget. Disconnect the AT dipstick from the intake.
7. Drop the tranny trying to keep the torque convertor inside it.
8. Remove the AT flexplate and counterweight using the 2 1/8 socket and impact wrench. A swift and hefty whack with a sledge on the outer edge of the counterweight usually loosens it up.
9. Install the flywheel and torque to 350 ft-lb.
10. Install the clutch components, then the 5sp transmission. Be sure to lube and clean the input shaft splines.
11. Install the 5sp starter.
12. IF your 5sp tranny has its crossmember still intact, remove it, leaving the large mounting stud.
13. Loosely mount the aotumatic crossmember in its original position. This will leave you with an open hole in the AT x-member, and a mounting stud on the 5sp tranny.
14. Use the adaptor and bolt up the transmission to the AT x-member, and tighten all bolts.
15. Install the driveshaft.
16. Swap speedo gears in the transmission tailshaft. This ensures your speedo stays accurate because the rearend ratios in most 5sp and AT cars are different. You want to use the gear that was in your old AT tranny. You can also consider swapping the rearend as discussed above.
17. Bolt up the exhaust.
18. Fill the tranny with gear oil.
19. Modify the wiring for the reverse lights. In 86-8 cars, you'll need to find the 3 prong white gang plug still in the car. 2 of these 3 wires actuate the reverse lights...one is a supply, and one a return. There is a simple switch on the 5sp tranny, the 2 red wires. Extend these 2 red wires and attatch them to these 2 prongs in the plug to make the lights work. The switch simply allows the supply to pass through and actuate the return power, which leads to the lights. It does not matter which wire from the switch goes to which, its a simple on/off switch polarity does not matter. For 89-91 cars, you need to run your own power lead from a switched power supply such as the fusebox. Connect it to one of the red wires. Then extend the other one to the 3 wire plug, top prong(by itself) to complete the circuit.
20. Modify the starter wiring. For now you'll leave off the stock trigger wire, the smaller of the 2 starter wires. Cut a 6 foot length of 14 gage wire, attatch the proper terminal, and run it through the firewall for later connection to the ignition switch. This is necessary because you need to bypass the stock automatic tranny safety devices...park and neutral safety lockouts. The car will not start without doing this.
21. If working on a 89-91 car youll need to get inside the passenger kick panel. There will be a metal box called EC-AT or EAT. IT is the electronic transmission's computer. Once the AT is removed this MUST be disconnected for the car to run right. Just unplug it and go on. IT will stop the "HOLD" light from flashing as well.
22. Install the 5sp shifter parts.
23. Remove the pedals. Youll have to remove the steering column to do this. There are many 12mm bolts under the dash and on the firewall that hold the pedals in. The brake master cylinder and booster assembly must also be nearly removed to clear the pedals. Install the new pedals and reinstall the steering column.
24. For the ignition switch wires, leave one disconnected...it is thick, black with a red stripe, and the only wire on it's plug. Find your starter trigger wire you ran earlier, and connect it to this wire...the end of the wire that comes from the ignition switch. This bypasses all the automatic interlocks that will keep you from starting. IF you wish to have a functional clutch pedal interlock, find the clutch pedal switch and first run your starter wire through that, then into the ignition switch.
25. Locate the stock AT ignition lockout cable that ran from the old shifter to the ignition cylinder. Youll want to disconnect it at the cylinder, where it is held on by a single 10mm nut underneatht eh cylinder. IF not done, this will keep you from being able to remove the key.
26. Remove the blockoff plate from the firewall for the clutch MC. Install the new clutch MC, slave cylinder and lines, and bleed if necessary.
27. Start the car and make necessary idle adjustments. Dont be alarmed that this is required, the AT and MT cars are set up slightly differently from the factory, and youll have to alter this to get it running smooth and driveable.
28. Enjoy your new 5sp car.
10-02-03, 03:03 PM
#4
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
He didnt write it. Its from kevin landers website www.rotaryressurrection.com
10-02-03, 08:04 PM
#5
Like Ghandi with a gun
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
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mmm... *looks at car and wonders when his driveline will show up*
Hmm... I'm hoping to have a "bondfire" in which I will burn my two expired autoboxes. Anyone want to join? Seriously
Hmm... I'm hoping to have a "bondfire" in which I will burn my two expired autoboxes. Anyone want to join? Seriously
Last edited by Kenteth; 10-02-03 at 08:30 PM.
11-03-03, 10:47 PM
#7
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
www.fc3s.org look in the parts fiche for the year of your car.