need help for my s4 t2
03-06-06, 12:55 AM
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need help for my s4 t2
ok i just bought a t2 and the owner tells me thats it been sitting out in the streets for about a year....my guages dont work i tried pulling all my fuses and sometimes my blinkers and lights work but when i put in all my fuses and somethings stop working...coolant fan light turns on but i think a censors out...um car sometimes wont start even with 2 gallons of gas...and i think either my clutch master cynlinders out or my clutch salve or my hydralic lines out dont can i know which one??? weeeeeeellllllll thats all thx i might have more and hopefully people will tell me whats wrong thx
03-06-06, 10:04 AM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
tell you whats wrong??? Yeah you bought a POS.
Actually you have a bunch of things wrong.
AS far as the clutch.. replace both the slave and master cyl (and probably the flexible line) if there are any issues. If one has failed chances are the other is pretty close behind it.
As far as the gauges, I'd be checking the plugs first. Then the meter fuse. Remember when checking fuses, you need to check them with a multi-meter. You can't always see when a ATC fuse is blown by just looking at it. Sometimes (particularly on old fuses) they will crack and you will not see the hairline facture. The fuse will just be bad.
If the light is coming on, there is an issue with the suplimental fan. As in it is broken, jammed or disconnected. That fan should only be on when the car is really warm/hot.
As far as the blinkers, it is not uncommon to have the CPU (body computer) have problems. I do have rebuilt flasher boards for the CPU available on my webstore/site, or if you are handy with the soldering iron and solder sucker, you can remove the old solder fron the joints of the plug for the turn signal board in the CPU and then flow new solder in. This should fix intemittent turn signals/Hazards in most cases unless the relays have failed, and then you'll need to just replace the circuit board in the CPU.
If the parking lights are also having issues (you were not real clear on that) then you would want to check the back of the light switch (as covered in the FAQ for FC sticky thread found at the top of this, the 2nd Gen technical section. The plug or switch may have failed (indicated by a burnt/discolored plug or switch where they meet).
and as far as the car starting or not starting with 2 gallons... you are not clear what the issue is.
Actually you have a bunch of things wrong.
AS far as the clutch.. replace both the slave and master cyl (and probably the flexible line) if there are any issues. If one has failed chances are the other is pretty close behind it.
As far as the gauges, I'd be checking the plugs first. Then the meter fuse. Remember when checking fuses, you need to check them with a multi-meter. You can't always see when a ATC fuse is blown by just looking at it. Sometimes (particularly on old fuses) they will crack and you will not see the hairline facture. The fuse will just be bad.
If the light is coming on, there is an issue with the suplimental fan. As in it is broken, jammed or disconnected. That fan should only be on when the car is really warm/hot.
As far as the blinkers, it is not uncommon to have the CPU (body computer) have problems. I do have rebuilt flasher boards for the CPU available on my webstore/site, or if you are handy with the soldering iron and solder sucker, you can remove the old solder fron the joints of the plug for the turn signal board in the CPU and then flow new solder in. This should fix intemittent turn signals/Hazards in most cases unless the relays have failed, and then you'll need to just replace the circuit board in the CPU.
If the parking lights are also having issues (you were not real clear on that) then you would want to check the back of the light switch (as covered in the FAQ for FC sticky thread found at the top of this, the 2nd Gen technical section. The plug or switch may have failed (indicated by a burnt/discolored plug or switch where they meet).
and as far as the car starting or not starting with 2 gallons... you are not clear what the issue is.
03-06-06, 07:47 PM
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lol holy **** i did buy a POS *** anyways the car didnt start with 2 gallons in the tank but i think its my sparkplugs cuz the starter works and everything but the engine just doesnt start...thx man this is a real big help 
and as far as my fan....its always on....
and as far as my fan....its always on....
Last edited by kimxxda1; 03-06-06 at 07:51 PM.
03-06-06, 07:56 PM
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
If it is not starting and the Gas is good, then I would think the engine is probably flooded. there are unflooding proceedures in the FAQ for FC sticky thread at the top of this section.
Be aware that if it is flooded and not just old expired gas, then you may be low on compression on the motor. It is common to have flooding issues if the motor has low compression or leaking injectors.
Be aware that if it is flooded and not just old expired gas, then you may be low on compression on the motor. It is common to have flooding issues if the motor has low compression or leaking injectors.
03-07-06, 02:05 AM
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i think it might be flooded cuz every time i try to start it i smell hellllllllla gas everywhere and my stupid gauge still doesnt work replaced the fuse checked the plus do you think the lights out or m guage is broken?? thx again
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03-07-06, 05:33 PM
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no i havent but the only way i know to find the compression is to pull out the engine and i dont have the tools or space to do that...=P is there anyway to check it w/o puling it out?? i bought sparkplugs and oil to do a oil change and stuff like that...also does it matter which sparkplug is leading cuz i got two different kinds
also which ones leading and whichones following or 2nd one =P again thank you
also which ones leading and whichones following or 2nd one =P again thank you
03-09-06, 02:18 AM
#13
ok....leading is both lower plugs. trailing are the upper.
All you do to compression test it is hook up a tester to one of the leading plug holes with the EGI fuses out. hold the valve open on the tester and have someone crank it. you should see 3 solid pulses...
repeat for other housing....
All you do to compression test it is hook up a tester to one of the leading plug holes with the EGI fuses out. hold the valve open on the tester and have someone crank it. you should see 3 solid pulses...
repeat for other housing....
03-09-06, 03:55 PM
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ok well i start it....then it turns off after like 3 sec...and yeah thank you again ill go check the compression
also if i try to get it to idle my car it starts to back fire since i dont know how high im revving cuz my guages are broken
also if i try to get it to idle my car it starts to back fire since i dont know how high im revving cuz my guages are broken
Last edited by kimxxda1; 03-09-06 at 04:07 PM.
03-12-06, 05:40 PM
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Well, the other day my car had a similar (but not similar enough) problem. I was in rush hour traffic, and stopping and going and such (didnt overheat not even close) and I hopped on the freeway and proceeded to accelerate to the same speed as surrounding traffic ( like 45 mph) and she started backfiring and flooding baaad. I know ( or am pretty sure I do) that the problem is the upper intake manifold gasket. Before the problem arose, I was hearing a loud woosh sound when accelerating, and have had to remove the uim a number of times. As far as I know, the woosh sound indicates a boost leak. The turbo is spinning just enough to open the AFM wide open because pressure is leaking out, and causes an extreme rich state. I limped it home, and shall perform a compression test, but am almost positive it is the UIM gasket. I know this does not help much, as my car idles fine and cranks good and has very few electric problems (mirrors and wipers, soon to be fixed), my suggestion is comp test. That is priority one for a rotary. Especially when fuel can be smelled and cranking gets hard. Also a good idea when you intend to buy a rotary as this is an indication that a rebuild is imminent. Before you buy, comp test.
Edit: Compression testers are pretty common. Try another place. they are like $40 (as far as I have priced them which isnt far
Edit: Compression testers are pretty common. Try another place. they are like $40 (as far as I have priced them which isnt far
Last edited by unW7WZ; 03-12-06 at 05:43 PM.
03-22-06, 05:23 PM
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HEY EVERYBODY remember this post?? lol anyways i just checked my compression and the first rotor was 99 and my 2nd was 110...car started for about 10 minutes and we turned it off and then it would start but die again...
