rx7enjinownij

I CANT STAND MY CAR, it's been sitting for like 6months, im trying to get it fixed and nothing will work, i got it tested for compression, the motor is fine, here is what it does

1. Start the car and it revs by itself to 3krpm + then lowers to 2 steady, isnt the idle supposd to be under 1.5k?

2. i press the clutch in and it doesnt come back, everytime i fix it, it does it again! i put DOT3 brake fluid in it, still does it , i pump it while my bro adjusts it.

3. we put new Air filter on the MAF tube from auto zone to make more back pressure it helped a bit but not alot, I think the timing is off because i rev it and it back fires.

4. I posted that i bought a TPs sensor for timing air etc it help alot, now it actually idles and doesn shut off.

5.When i drive it it will go fast but i am pressing gas down all the way and it just doesnt do anything, could it be the throttle cable? :/


I dont know much about cars but my brother does, so any help would be excellent

Need HELP!

rx7enjinownij

it's in my profile and it's a mazda rx7 1988 NON TURBO

rx7enjinownij

I CANT STAND MY CAR, it's been sitting for like 6months, im trying to get it fixed and nothing will work, i got it tested for compression, the motor is fine, here is what it does

1. Start the car and it revs by itself to 3krpm + then lowers to 2 steady, isnt the idle supposd to be under 1.5k?

2. i press the clutch in and it doesnt come back, everytime i fix it, it does it again! i put DOT3 brake fluid in it, still does it , i pump it while my bro adjusts it.

3. we put new Air filter on the MAF tube from auto zone to make more back pressure it helped a bit but not alot, I think the timing is off because i rev it and it back fires.

4. I posted that i bought a TPS sensor (NEW) for timing air etc it helped alot, now it actually idles and doesnt shut off.

5.When i drive it it will go fast but i am pressing the gas down all the way and it just bogs out and dies unless i let go of the gas and put it in nuetral , could it be the throttle cable?


I dont know much about cars but my brother does, so any help would be excellent

Need HELP! Ive posted this before but the ******** werent helping me , just making fun of me. Please post something serious.

NZConvertible

Warm idle should be ~750rpm. Adjust it as per the instructions in the FSM.
There's nothing to adjust on the clutch, so I don't understand what you're doing. It sounds like either the master or slave cylinder needs to be rebuild/replaced.
That makes no sense. Backpressure is the term used to describe the pressure in the exhaust system. What exactly did the air filter help with?
So check the timing as per the instructions in the FSM.
The TPS is the throttle position sensor. It has nothing to do with "timing air" (whatever that is). Make sure the TPS is set correctly as per the instructions in the FSM (seeing a pattern yet?) or you'll have other problems.
It could be, but it could be a million other things too since your description of the problem doesn't tell us much. You can check the throttle cable by holding the pedal to the floor and having someone verify the throttle is opening fully. If it's not, adjust it (surprise) as per the instructions in the FSM.

Please read this thread too.

lgjp2631

might be a vac line under the intake. we learn more every day no big deal

rx7enjinownij

okay now im lost on everything people have been telling me on the forrums thanks >thread edited for profanity<

Ocelot

If your this lost, why don't you just take it to a mechanic?

Icemark

Thread pruned for useless posts.

It should rev that high when cold starting, however as NZ posted , the warm idle should be 700 RPM. You will need to adjust it or fix it accordingly.

Quote:

2. i press the clutch in and it doesnt come back, everytime i fix it, it does it again! i put DOT3 brake fluid in it, still does it , i pump it while my bro adjusts it.

Bad clutch master or slave. This is pretty straight forward... anyone with any sort of minimal knowledge of cars should have known this


Back firing would have nothing to do with the air filter, unless perhaps you replaced the stock filter with a cone filter, and didn't put a filter on the air pump (which could cause the air pump to fail and then the car to back fire... but its more likely that you have either the A/F mixture setting mis-adjusted (which would also explain your high idle) or have messed with the air intake on the throttle body.

Quote:

4. I posted that i bought a TPs sensor for timing air etc it help alot, now it actually idles and doesn shut off.

Good

Quote:

5.When i drive it it will go fast but i am pressing gas down all the way and it just doesnt do anything, could it be the throttle cable?

Probably again someone has messed up the A/F mixture or some other mis-tuning problem. I would very much doubt it would have anything to do with the throttle cable.

And please avoid posting any profanity

3RotorRocket

dont get an autozone filter wtf hahaha

rx7enjinownij

it doesnt matter noob, a filter that is 10 dollars quick and still works

rx7enjinownij

$$$$$$$$$$$ for mechanic, got a paypal account, you pay for it, noone knows how to work on it either

Kai

Air filters have absolutely nothing to do with backpressure. That considered, backpressure is a BAD thing anyway.

]v[akaveli

dude, its ur ******* master clutch cylinder, if ur bro is good at car work he would know this, its an easy fix, takes like 10 mins to do, that happened to mine, i can't believe a small obstacle like that has been keeping u from driving ur car, >edited for profanity<, go down to ur parts store, get u a nice tokiko master clutch cylinder, and maybe a slave cylinder just in case that one is bad 2, and voila, ur car will work.

Icemark

No, a crappy cheapo air filter will let too much dirt and dust in and will fail to do its job properly... leading to even more problems like stuck throttle plates or AFM, or even worn seals.

Cwaters

The way I see it, if you don't have the money to take your car to somebody who knows how to fix cars (and most any mechanic worth his salt should be able to make even a rotary car run, it's not rocket science), you need to learn how to do it yourself.
Find somebody to help you. Go to places where car people hang out and strike-up converstion. A car-guy mentor is invaluable.
Download and print out the sections of the FSM (Factoy Service Manual) and read the whole damn thing. It has a TON of information and step by step instructions. It does, however, assume you have a certain level of understanding and also requires you to have all the tools the dealership would have. That's where your new friends come in. They'll have some idea what the heck the manual is talking about and have a good set of tools (hopefully). If you work at it, you'll be able to fix your own car but it's like anything else...practice practice practice...

Good luck with your car.

Cory

version13

He has an '88, theefore he needs the backpressure in the exhaust to open his aux. ports.

truespin88

It's not necessarily your master cylinder.
When the slave's bleeder is open, my pedal doesn't return. Check for leaks at the slave cyl. When you open the bleeder, it should squirt out. Watch the clutch fork (yah you can see it from above) to make sure it's moving.
If you get squirt but no fork movement, then it's the slave.

Makaveli, don't get hostile.

Aaron Cake, if you are reading this, please do something with Makaveli. This type of hostility is not needed.

]v[akaveli

Edited for flaming

FtotheC

it's normal for the fc to rev to 3k...part of the warm up procedure...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

1. It is supposed to rev to 3k. It should drop to 750rpm for a perfect idle.

You may have a vacuum leak or you never tuned the idle.

2. Possible leak somewhere or your return spring is bad on the clutch pedal.
Your Clutch Master cylinder might be bypassing back into the resevoir or maybe the Slave cylinder is bad.

The Slave is like $25 new and the Master is ?$$$?

3. That's crap about a filter helping anything.
A filter is exactly what it is. A filter nothing more or less.
You can run no filter with no ill effects other than dirt getting into the engine.

Our car is supposed to back fire. There is an over lap where some fuel will be unburnt and will go straight into the exhaust.(I think of it as a plus hehe)

Your timing may be off or maybe a leaky injector if you constantly back fire even when giving minimal amounts of gas.

4. From what I rad that's just a statement not a Q.

5. That's the sysmptoms my car had when it had a blown coolant seal. You said you have good compression. What's the numbers?70?80?90+?

This could also be a vacuum leak.
Since it's not on the road you might want to just take the Upper manifold off and replace the vacuum hoes.
The first time I took mine off it took me 3 hours.
The second time only about 30 minutes. Just label or remember each plug.

Maybe clean out the BAC since it can get clogged and mess up idle a bit.(it's on the Upper manifold and is kinda round with a plug and coolant hoses goin to it.

version13

Acutally, I think I have found your problem. Leaks would cause similar problems, but in your case, I think it is actually the spark plugs. Take a look at them. You will most likely have to change them. I am almost certain it is that.

Icemark

Merged rx7enjinownij's two threads of almost the same content.

On thread is enough rx7enjinownij you do not need to start multiple threads on the same exact questions.

Icemark