hey guys iam just having alot of questions lately. iam about to put an intake on my car (just the filter with the maf adapter and stock black pipe on my s4 second gen) iam basicaly removing the stock mazda box.well anyways i was just curious if this is worth it and if iam actually going to feel a changre in performace in general. also i asked my mechanic teacher at the place i go for school and he said i should also remove my air pump since i dont have catalytic converters on my fc. so do u guys think i should do this to get a little power.(i know its not alot) also ive been going back and forth on wether i should get one of those so claimed good performace chips that give u better gas milage .so do u guys think those things actually work.?

 

Those performance chips are BS, they dont help anything, they actually make things worse. They are a 5 cent resistor in a box that they charge 50 bucks for.

 

first of all in your name thingy it says 90 fc bone stock , and your DP it shows you got fogs so did you do a swap or something ?

 

Cone filter w/out an air box = hot air intake. You'll gain nothing, or even lose power sucking hot radiator air in.

Performance chips are a scam.

 

exactly what rotaryrocket said , my 7 came with a cone from the guy i bought it from, i just replaced it with the stock box that the car came with

 

well its a 90 shell with a stock s4 swap but engine is bone stock.

 

wat about taking the air pump off and removing the clear lense from the intake side to get air right through.

 

If you wanna do an intake, look into the Mariah cold air box:

http://www.mariahmotorsports.com/eng...iah_airbox.htm

 

^ i have that... dosent seem to really make a difference... but it looks good.


i would recoment getting the intake pipe from corksport.. they offer it for the s4...


i tryed to convince them to make it for the s5 but they jsut started to ignore me after awhile...

 

The intake only helps a tiny bit. If you don't get the air from outside the engine bay then the warm air will actually make things worse. The solution would be a cold air box around the intake with air ducting in from outside. All this is a bit of work for 2-3 HP. Since it seems you have an '86-88 model and no cat you don't need the air pump. +1 the performance chips are BS. If you want to spend the money you can buy a standalone ECU or an rtek then pay someone to tune it right. Since you removed your cat go to www.aaroncake.net and make sure your auxillary ports are still working, or you may be losing power instead of gaining it. Check this before removing your air pump, since one of the easiest workarounds is to activate the ports with air from the air pump.

 

thanks for all ur help. and whats this about the auxilary ports , before removing the air pump. how do i check that?

 

On a side note, your say you have an S4, but your avatar is of an S5 (or at least has the S5 bumper & paint scheme). Is that your car in the pic? If so, you NEED the airpump to properly open your aux. ports and activate the VDI on your manifold. In simple terms, removing the airpump would mean about -40 hp.

 

its a 90 with an s4 . so ur saying dont remove my air pump even though i have no catalytic conver. well then if iam going to put on a cone intake theres a hose that comes out from the stock intake box that goes to the air pump . so if i take that box off and put a cone intake then wat do i do to the air pump .? can i just put a breather on it or wat?

 

So, it's a 1990 RX-7 with an S4 ('86-'88) engine?

And yes, if you remove the airbox, you can just put a breather filter on the airpump inlet. Small filters made for crankcase vents will work.

 

The 2 auxillary intake ports (1 per rotor) open up to allow more air at higher rpms, and are worth about 25 HP. Closing them at low rpms reduces intake/exhaust port overlap, for increased torque. It's basically VTEC for rotaries, before VTEC was invented. [dodges flames]

The link I gave tells you how to test them. In the 86-88 (s4) exhaust backpressure (or was it velocity or something [shrug]) opens the auxillary ports. Changes to the exhaust might screw that up. Incidentally a full exhaust grants about 25 HP, for a net gain of zero if you don't verify port operation. In the 89-91 (s5), air pressure from the air pump opens the auxillary ports. Jimmying up a similar setup is a common solution for s4's whose exhaust won't do the job anymore. If you already have an s5, your life is a lot easier as all you have to do is keep the air pump and not worry about it.

 

wow thanks alot guys . well ive put on the cone intake and took of the stock box . as for the air pump i bought a breather and put it on . ill post pics soon so u can see wat i did . ohh and ill do that auxilary port check thing on monday wen i take the car to school so my teacher can help me check it. one more question my car's been smooking white smoke wen i cold start it sometimes . my teacher says that im running rich so wat can i do to fix this. i did a compression test to see if my engine was reliable and it read 100psi for both front and back rotors. do u think that it the gas that i put in it . ive started puting chevron and people tell me that its not good for rotories. is that true?wat can i do?

 

heres some pics

 

In most cases, white = coolant, blue/gray = oil, black/gray = fuel.

The engine runs a little rich at the factory setting. You can fix this by installing an aftermarket fuel computer (about $400) or standalone EMS ($1,000-$3,000), and then retune the engine.

Why would Chevron be bad for rotaries? It sounds like you shouldn't listen to those people... for anything, lol.

If you want good gas, look at the list on the Top Tier gas website:
http://www.toptiergas.com/

Also, your car will run best on regular unleaded (usually 87 octane) containing no more than 10% ethanol. Higher octane is not needed unless the engine has major problems that cause it to knock with the regular unleaded.

 

i thought t2 s needed higher oxtane

 

They do. But he ain't turbocharged.

 

No, they are rated for regular octane just like the non-turbo models. You only need higher octane if the engine knocks with the regular octane due to serious mechanical problems or increased boost levels.

Nope, open the glove box and read the owner's manual to see for yourself.

 

will my t2 run better on 93 oxtane?

 

well then why do i flood my engine once in a while. for example i would cold start my car and it would do the normal thing which is go to 2300 give or take for like 10 seconds then it would go to 1200 rpm and then to 750 when its at normal temp. then i would run the car and when i get somewhere where i have to turn it off i wait like a minute for it to idle and then shut it off. then when i come back to turn the car on the car struggles to start and sometime resulting in a flood. so i disconnect the fuel pump and then turn it on so it can kill the exess gas then i connect it again and the car starts fine . this has just started happening, What do u guys think it is??

 

Ill have to take your word for it, but that really surprises me. Mine never had factory boost for more than a week so I never thought to look. I just always took it for granted they needed minimum 91. Learn something new everyday I guess.

 

Sounds like leaking injectors to me. I'd have them cleaned and flow tested if I were you.