Need help with auxillary ports
#51
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Definitely.
It also hints at what I've said before about non-stock systems not providing enough pressure to open as early as they should. RB have moved the pick-up point as far forward as possible to open the ports as early as possible. It'll still be later than stock though.
It also hints at what I've said before about non-stock systems not providing enough pressure to open as early as they should. RB have moved the pick-up point as far forward as possible to open the ports as early as possible. It'll still be later than stock though.
#52
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Yeah, I have the RB collected system (with pick-up in stock location, basically). I just tested when the aux ports are opening and they are barely starting to move at 5800 RPM, and don't fully open until close to 6.5k..... It is possible that they need to be cleaned to operate properly, but still, thats pretty late.
BTW, the air pump will work great for what I need. Once I get a megasquirt (or build my own programmable RPM switch) I can make a really nifty opening circuit. Since the pump is made to hold pressure, you can kick it on then have the pump turn off but hold the pressure until you want to release it. Unfortunately this requires more than just an on/off switch, which is why I need something programmable. I can still rig it to work in on/off mode, but its not ideal for extended high-RPM times like at a track. I also think the car it came out of might have been a Crown Vic after all. I'll have to check it out next time I get out there.
BTW, the air pump will work great for what I need. Once I get a megasquirt (or build my own programmable RPM switch) I can make a really nifty opening circuit. Since the pump is made to hold pressure, you can kick it on then have the pump turn off but hold the pressure until you want to release it. Unfortunately this requires more than just an on/off switch, which is why I need something programmable. I can still rig it to work in on/off mode, but its not ideal for extended high-RPM times like at a track. I also think the car it came out of might have been a Crown Vic after all. I'll have to check it out next time I get out there.
#53
Originally Posted by HAILERS
Regular old solenoid off a series four or series five.
I visually checked the actuators while manually revving the throttle under the hood and no go.
I manually actuated 5 and 6 no problem.
Then I figured I needed just over 2 PSI for actuation? I can do that...
So I put a little piece of hose on the 6PI actuator pipe and tried a "Dizzy Gillespie 6PI Test Method":
Not a hookah, testing 6PI actuation.
Sure enough, the actuators pushed when I blew. I'm clearly not getting enough backpressure off the high-flow RT cat. They claim they're the highest flow on the planet, apparently so. They're probably great for Turbo exhaust if you need a kitty-cat.
I need to do the solenoid actuation ASAP...
#54
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Originally Posted by Red'vert
Due to insights gleaned here I was suspicious of my 6PI actuation due to an apparent lack of low-end torque made apparent on the infamous SF hills.
#56
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i have a straight pipe also and the person that had it before me drilled a hole and welded a bung to the straight pipe to connect the split-air pipe. been working perfectly (s4 btw)
#59
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Originally Posted by Red'vert
No doubt the reason for the placement of the 6PI actuator tube on the S4 RB header...
#60
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Originally Posted by TitosToy
when i give it some gas, i can see the actuators working. it doesnt need any load to get them to work
Originally Posted by HAILERS
The pipe has since done did falled off/breakoff.
#61
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
They'll still be closed at low rpm so there won't be any loss to low-end performance. It's the mid-range that suffers if the ports open too late.
(San Francisco eats clutches for breakfast...)
-Rob
#62
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That makes more sense. Basically between when they should open (~3800rpm) and when they do open, you're making less power than you chould be.
Childhood fantasy: Go to SF and drive downhill at speed getting air thorugh the intersections like in the movies...
Childhood fantasy: Go to SF and drive downhill at speed getting air thorugh the intersections like in the movies...
#63
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Originally Posted by Red'vert
No doubt the reason for the placement of the 6PI actuator tube on the S4 RB header...
#64
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
What RPM do they open at? That's the important bit.
Lemme go find my English-Texan dictionary...
#65
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Originally Posted by TitosToy
it opens around 3500 rpms. a lil early but it works.
#66
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
That makes more sense. Basically between when they should open (~3800rpm) and when they do open, you're making less power than you chould be.
Little known SF fact, Vermont St. on Potrero Hill is twistier than Lombard...
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Childhood fantasy: Go to SF and drive downhill at speed getting air thorugh the intersections like in the movies...
Filmmakers have broken so many rules over the years that it's now virtually impossible to shoot real stunt-driving in the heart of the city.
#67
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Unless you have a very restrictive exhasut, I'm having trouble believing simple exhaust pressure activation could open the ports earlier than stock. It breaks the laws of physics...
#68
Originally Posted by tjbubb007
has anybody hooked up some sort of a pressure gage to the RB header to see when the acuator tube reaches 2 psi if so does it open the ports at the correct rpm (~3800rpms)
Probably no guarantees on their 6PI pre-silencer with a non RB downpipe though...
#69
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ive heard of some adjustable valves and thing guys put on the exhaust ports to make sure they are not getting too much pressure at the right rpms so they open up right
#70
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I have an 88 GTU with a rusted through exhaust. I know that any changes that are made to the exhaust system will change the aux port actuation. How drastically will the actuation be impacted if If I keep all of my emissions (cats), but have a catback exhaust (I'm getting corksport).
#71
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Hey, I remember this thread...the operation of your 6PI system will always be affected to some degree. The only way to be sure is to test it, either on a dyno, or with micro switches on the rods. Some posts above say the system works in neutral while stopped, so you could check it in the driveway, but I haven't confirmed this myself.
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