K. So I took my series 4 to a proper rotary shop to get all the vacuum lines changed. They done that and removed all the unneeded emissions and air pump and such. Got my injectors sent off and cleaned. Put a pod filter on the car. And now they can't get it started and they have no idea what's wrong. It's been there for 2 weeks now and they say they have tried everything. Changing computer. Air flow meter. Coil packs. Spark plugs. Pretty much anything they can think of they have tried. But when it does start it runs only on 1 rotor. Anyone have any idea what the issue could be here??? Need help fast.

 

Did they change the plugs?,try de-flooding?,check for any signs of vacuum leaks?.
Also,IF the car was Running and now it is not,The wiring and ECU has NOTHING to do with Emissions removal.
If they screwed it up and can't figure it out..(ROTARY shop???..What?),Do NOT pay and get the friggin car out of there.

 

Your best bet is to do a compression test, it could be running on one rotor for a reason. You can use a normal compression tester just hold the air release button and watch the bounces. Also best to test from lower spark plug holes. You never know that shop could have done something along the way that trashed a rotor housing.

If you pass the compression test then go down the line and see if your getting the proper spark, air, and fuel.

If your shop doesnt know how to test for those basic things maybe you picked the wrong shop.

 

sounds like BS to me...

 

They did a compression test n said both rotors were fault even. The back one was 72 n front was 70. I dunno what they've done. They done deflooding and changed spark plugs

 

Those are rather poor numbers. A flooded engine will lower the compression numbers though.

 

They did say that the motor if very flooded n that's why it doesn't start first click of the key. Only starts after the deflooding process is done but the motor has done around 170,000ks

 

I don't know where Adelaide is, are you in the states? I'm not sure an official shop here would willingly remove emissions equipment... but I do all my work except tire stuff myself and avoid shops, so my experience with them is limited.

70psi is indeed pretty low.

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

 

I'm in Australia. Emissions is needed here for legality but it's not needed for the car to run. I'm stumped on the problem and so are they

 

I'd start with finding out how they did the compression test. If they did it wrong, take it to an actual proper rotary shop.

 

not much of a rotary shop then, not at all.

they probably damaged a primary injector clip while they were doing their work, any real mechanical shop could easily diagnose a lack of fuel to one chamber regardless of being a rotary specialty shop. find someplace else to have it worked on.

 

Indeed! A proper rotary shop cant get it started!? It ran before they took it in? Unfortunately we can't help you unless you are there in front of the car working on it yourself.

 

I would look into this...have them focus on stuff they disturbed/removed when doing the work.

Maybe quoted poster or someone else can confirm how to check for operating injectors (primary). I think you pull out the CAS from the front cover and spin it while plugged in with ignition on and use a mechanics stethoscope touching one injector at a time to listen for clicking - but not sure if I remember it right.

If they don't know the primary injectors are the buried ones and the accessible ones are the secondaries (and only function at load after...what is it...like 3000RPM) then you def. have the wrong 'rotary' shop.

Spark is easy enough...you can just have them hook up a timing gun and check each spark plug wire while cranking.

 

if they aren't completely retarded a real rotary shop can tell when both injectors are clicking without removing anything. but that still doesn't mean these clowns didn't hook up the injectors inccorectly and have both primary clips on rotor 1 or 2 paired together dumping fuel into 1 rotor while the other is bone dry.

sometimes i come across these shops that can't fix a stock car if it meant saving their life, but they can build modified cars all day long. i don't understand how though. without understanding the basics i find it hard to believe that they can know the professional level.

there is an old saying i like to remember in cases like these:

even a blind squirrel will find a nut sometimes, and sometimes ignorant shops get by just long enough to take your money and pack up and do it over again somewhere else.

 

^ Hey is there an easier way to check for them clicking? Maybe just cranking you can hear them over the starter with a stethoscope? Sorry for the noob question...but still on topic. Haven't had to work on mine in a LONG time...just maintenance stuff.

 

the easiest method was mentioned, either find a spare CAS or pull the cover off yours, mark the position, remove it and plug it in, turn the key on and spin it while listening to the injectors. the injectors will have an alternating pulse sound if both are firing, if only one is firing then it would sound even and rather slow in succession. reinstall the CAS in the position it was removed from.