Need help ASAP: Oil cooler woes
#1
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Need help ASAP: Oil cooler woes
So if any of you have read any of my last threads, they were about replacing the oil cooler lines on my S4 NA. The one leading to the back of the engine had sprung a leak, so I planned on replacing it.
To get the bolt off from the line that had actually burst, the bolt in the cooler itself, required me removing the top line from the cooler, removing the assembly and bringing it to a shop to get it zipped off with an impact gun, because I don't have one. Anyway, that top bolt now will not seal. I got a crush washer from the hardware store, bored it out to make it fit the banjo bolt, and I'm still using the original washer for the top of the banjo bolt, where it meets the top of the fitting at the end of the line. I tightened things down hand tight, then an extra turn, started my car and saw a leak. I tightened it down some more, and it still leaked.
I'm getting a bit frustrated with this right now, I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace that line too because it is such a pain in the *** to get to, and I don't have a 25 mm wrench to get it off...I just bought the 23mm one I needed from sears for ****** like 18 bucks. I can't afford this right now, Christmas time and all...
Anyone have any ideas about what I should do. If it requires replacing that line, too, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it. But it's mad ******* cold outside!!!
Thanks in advance everybody,
James
To get the bolt off from the line that had actually burst, the bolt in the cooler itself, required me removing the top line from the cooler, removing the assembly and bringing it to a shop to get it zipped off with an impact gun, because I don't have one. Anyway, that top bolt now will not seal. I got a crush washer from the hardware store, bored it out to make it fit the banjo bolt, and I'm still using the original washer for the top of the banjo bolt, where it meets the top of the fitting at the end of the line. I tightened things down hand tight, then an extra turn, started my car and saw a leak. I tightened it down some more, and it still leaked.
I'm getting a bit frustrated with this right now, I was hoping I wouldn't have to replace that line too because it is such a pain in the *** to get to, and I don't have a 25 mm wrench to get it off...I just bought the 23mm one I needed from sears for ****** like 18 bucks. I can't afford this right now, Christmas time and all...
Anyone have any ideas about what I should do. If it requires replacing that line, too, I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and do it. But it's mad ******* cold outside!!!
Thanks in advance everybody,
James
Last edited by spot_skater; 12-22-05 at 10:59 AM.
#2
Haven't we ALL heard this
I would say the impact wrench tweaked the banjo bolt. I am SURE some forum guys can help you out on some crush washers and a banjo bolt.
There are cheaper places to buy sockets then sears...try autozone or sears.
There are cheaper places to buy sockets then sears...try autozone or sears.
#3
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Tweaked the banjo bolt, as in twisted it? It was frozen on there pretty good, I even asked my 230 lb brother to get at it, and it didn't budge...
And it was a wrench I bought, just to clarify, lol.
And it was a wrench I bought, just to clarify, lol.
#4
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
Are you sure you put the crush washers on the right way? You need 2 for each banjo One edge is beveled. If you put them on the wrong way and torque then down you can tear the crush washer apart.
#5
Engine, Not Motor
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If the bolt was that tight, make sure that the cooler is not cracked in any way. It sounds like it was abused in the past. You may have cracks radiating out from the hole along the sealing edge. Also replace the banjo bolt. They're fairly easy to find at most decent fastener stores, and anyone who has worked on FCs before has a bunch (I literally have a shoebox full of this stuff).
Also, torque is around 30 FT-lbs if I remember correctly, so don't be afraid to give it a little tension.
Also, torque is around 30 FT-lbs if I remember correctly, so don't be afraid to give it a little tension.
#6
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, for all the input.
I just got back from the dealership, ordered a new banjo bolt, but didn't order the washers. I went to the hardware store and got a crush washer that looked like it would fit the bolt, it didn't, so I grinded it a little on the inside to make it fit. I suspect it's the bolt, because I put washers on each side- the new washer on the bottom between the hose and the oil cooler, still leaked. The cooler doesn't have any cracks in it, just some small dents from age. And after it was impacted off, I did switch the bolts around.
Also, there was only one washer for each bolt before I started to work on it, and they hadn't leaked prior to the burst in the line mentioned in my last thread. I made sure not to get overly crazy tightening, but I'm sure I went past spec. And like I said, the cooler doesn't have any cracks in it.
Aaron, the torque specs range from 40 ft/lbs to 51/58. I gave it roughly 30 at first, then probably to around 45/50, then next to 80. All of this with the car running, so I could watch where the leak came from. It was seeping out from the bottom of the bolt, where the bottom washer was/is.
If anyone has any of these washers I'd be glad to take em off your hands...
James
PS: The dealer's quote for a new oil cooler is $720...rediculous. I saw it while they were looking through parts and stuff on the computer.
I just got back from the dealership, ordered a new banjo bolt, but didn't order the washers. I went to the hardware store and got a crush washer that looked like it would fit the bolt, it didn't, so I grinded it a little on the inside to make it fit. I suspect it's the bolt, because I put washers on each side- the new washer on the bottom between the hose and the oil cooler, still leaked. The cooler doesn't have any cracks in it, just some small dents from age. And after it was impacted off, I did switch the bolts around.
Also, there was only one washer for each bolt before I started to work on it, and they hadn't leaked prior to the burst in the line mentioned in my last thread. I made sure not to get overly crazy tightening, but I'm sure I went past spec. And like I said, the cooler doesn't have any cracks in it.
Aaron, the torque specs range from 40 ft/lbs to 51/58. I gave it roughly 30 at first, then probably to around 45/50, then next to 80. All of this with the car running, so I could watch where the leak came from. It was seeping out from the bottom of the bolt, where the bottom washer was/is.
If anyone has any of these washers I'd be glad to take em off your hands...
James
PS: The dealer's quote for a new oil cooler is $720...rediculous. I saw it while they were looking through parts and stuff on the computer.
Last edited by spot_skater; 12-22-05 at 01:44 PM.
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#8
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Alright, thanks for all the help. I'm going to call the dealership again and have them order me some washers.
James
Edit: Washers ordered, as well. I'm gonna continue this on Tuesday when the parts come in. I'll keep you guys updated...
Thanks again.
James
Edit: Washers ordered, as well. I'm gonna continue this on Tuesday when the parts come in. I'll keep you guys updated...
Thanks again.
Last edited by spot_skater; 12-22-05 at 03:11 PM.
#12
The Cause of Death
Thread Starter
Put crush washers in, tightened everything down. No leak whatsoever.
Remounted the oil cooler, put some gas in her and drove her around for about two hours. No problems.
Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.
James
PS: I have the Mazdatrix lines.
Remounted the oil cooler, put some gas in her and drove her around for about two hours. No problems.
Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.
James
PS: I have the Mazdatrix lines.
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