Need Help; must learn 13b skills. Rebuilding engine with no knowledge.
#1
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Need Help; must learn 13b skills. Rebuilding engine with no knowledge.
I'm getting ready to rebuild my engine; in the next month or so.
I don't know anything at all about rebuilding an engine, but I want to learn.
The best way to learn about anything concerning cars is to dive head first and trial-and-error.
Though... I do think it might be best if I could get some sort of advice of what I should do to sort of prepare for it.
I know it will be impossible to really be prepared for something as complex as a rotary engine, with its ? 3 moving parts?
But if anyone has any advice on something to read or watch before I do this.
I'll greatly appreciate it and probably start a project thread so everyone can rofl at my mistakes and ,most likely, tears.
I don't know anything at all about rebuilding an engine, but I want to learn.
The best way to learn about anything concerning cars is to dive head first and trial-and-error.
Though... I do think it might be best if I could get some sort of advice of what I should do to sort of prepare for it.
I know it will be impossible to really be prepared for something as complex as a rotary engine, with its ? 3 moving parts?
But if anyone has any advice on something to read or watch before I do this.
I'll greatly appreciate it and probably start a project thread so everyone can rofl at my mistakes and ,most likely, tears.
#2
Forward, Always
iTrader: (3)
theres actually some really good videos that show step by step the rebuild process, or u can go by the ''Factory Service Manual''.
i think it may be kind of hard to learn everything via internet, u might get good pointers
but id def try to get the dvd or haynes FSM
i still havnt done mine, not gonna lie, kinda scared to
i think it may be kind of hard to learn everything via internet, u might get good pointers
but id def try to get the dvd or haynes FSM
i still havnt done mine, not gonna lie, kinda scared to
#4
Sideways is the only way
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ya, rotary resurection rebuild dvd. if you don't want the dvd (highly recomended though, only $20) pineapple racing has a few vids that are very helpful about checking parts and how to put seals in, clearencing,etc. also youtube actually has some "rotary class" videos if I recall that is close to the name of the series. read through the haynes manual and factory service manual regarding engine overhaul. there is a link to the manuals in this sections FAQ.
I am in the same boat. I got a t2 I need to rebuild to swap my N/A. I'm at a disadvantage though because my t2 motor was already torn apart when I got it and nothings organized. I have a BIG box of parts. it's my first time but I have been doing my homework for a few months. I have checked and cleaned the rotors,eccentric shaft, side housings (AKA irons), and checked the housings so far. checking parts and clearencing is time consuming and tedious but lets you know if you should replace something.
tip, you will need feeler gauges and large micrometers (4" I think? w/e the housing width is) for a lot of checking as well as calipers. and you should get the rotating assembly (eccentric shaft with rotors, counter weights on it and all that) balanced too. most of the time its allright if you leave the rotors on but I suggest you check your rotor gears and seals as well so it would be necessary in that case. thats what I have learned so far BUT I have never rebuilt one yet so this is speculation based on what I have read. OTHER PEOPLE CONFIRM THIS STUFF PLEASE. take it with a grain of salt and check up on it yourself. there are a lot of useful rebuild threads and related questions floating around on this site so read...a lot. that's all you can do to prepare really.
I am in the same boat. I got a t2 I need to rebuild to swap my N/A. I'm at a disadvantage though because my t2 motor was already torn apart when I got it and nothings organized. I have a BIG box of parts. it's my first time but I have been doing my homework for a few months. I have checked and cleaned the rotors,eccentric shaft, side housings (AKA irons), and checked the housings so far. checking parts and clearencing is time consuming and tedious but lets you know if you should replace something.
tip, you will need feeler gauges and large micrometers (4" I think? w/e the housing width is) for a lot of checking as well as calipers. and you should get the rotating assembly (eccentric shaft with rotors, counter weights on it and all that) balanced too. most of the time its allright if you leave the rotors on but I suggest you check your rotor gears and seals as well so it would be necessary in that case. thats what I have learned so far BUT I have never rebuilt one yet so this is speculation based on what I have read. OTHER PEOPLE CONFIRM THIS STUFF PLEASE. take it with a grain of salt and check up on it yourself. there are a lot of useful rebuild threads and related questions floating around on this site so read...a lot. that's all you can do to prepare really.
#5
Listen to King Diamond.
iTrader: (4)
I have the Mazdatrix rebuild DVD, I'd recommend it. Detailed and broken down into steps, and takes time to explain the not-so-straightforward parts, such as clearancing side seals. However, I wouldn't rely on it by itself. Download a copy of the factory service manual from the FAQ and read over the engine section (breakdown of rebuild steps, straight from the horse's mouth). I'd also spend some time in the engine building sections of various rotary forums and just reading threads. Scan the thread titles, if you see someone asking a question similar to one that you have, it is surely answered within.
#6
Cake or Death?
iTrader: (2)
You joke about the apparent simplicity of the rotary but factor in that those "three moving parts" require over a grand in seals alone and the penalty for failure becomes more dear.
When you first crack the keg, how do your inexperienced eyes determine that the housings/rotor are in usable shape? Have you the tooling to measure them?
Can you press in new main bearings?
The point here is not to discourage you, far from it.
Underestimating a task is an excellent way to achieve failure, which I assume is not one of your goals.
Were you to spend a few days searching this site (there are scads of rebuild threads), watching instructional DVDs and then reevaluating your facility/tooling, I think you'd have a better appreciation of the task at hand.
#7
rotors excite me
iTrader: (16)
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/shotgun-rebuild-746247/
btw don't weld a steel washer to your wastegate flapper. It will melt.
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#8
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com look at all the videos there, it covers a lot of good stuff
#9
The Big Ugly!
Definately get one of the videos & a service manual. Like said above you can get good ideas & pointers here, but when you run in to a problem guess what? You'll be right back here, that would make your rebuild a pain having to stop & get on here to post & wait for an answer. Good luck tho.
#10
Resident Rotard
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Thanks for the advice everyone I have bought the Haynes repair Manual; got it before I bought the car actually. I had planned on buying the mazdatrix rebuild video, too. I've watched a few of the ones on youtube but my internet isn't the quickest.
It was to ease my mind, the joke was. Truthfully right now I probably couldn't tell if they were usable or not, but I have read enough rebuild threads on the forum and after another month of preperation I'd say I'll be able to. If not... expect to see me post it on the forum. I don't have the correct tooling as of now, I was going to order everything around the sametime.
I'm not underestimating it, believe that. I just know, from reading the other rebuild threads on here, unless you have some knowledgable help most likely you will make a mistake; probably a stupid one.
You joke about the apparent simplicity of the rotary but factor in that those "three moving parts" require over a grand in seals alone and the penalty for failure becomes more dear.
When you first crack the keg, how do your inexperienced eyes determine that the housings/rotor are in usable shape? Have you the tooling to measure them?
Can you press in new main bearings?
The point here is not to discourage you, far from it.
Underestimating a task is an excellent way to achieve failure, which I assume is not one of your goals.
When you first crack the keg, how do your inexperienced eyes determine that the housings/rotor are in usable shape? Have you the tooling to measure them?
Can you press in new main bearings?
The point here is not to discourage you, far from it.
Underestimating a task is an excellent way to achieve failure, which I assume is not one of your goals.
I'm not underestimating it, believe that. I just know, from reading the other rebuild threads on here, unless you have some knowledgable help most likely you will make a mistake; probably a stupid one.
#11
If you think you are not underestimating...you are. haha. Then again if you don't need new rotor housings/irons and/or rotors, and especially if your old bearings are reuseable than I would imagine the rebuild really wouldn't be too difficult.
I ordered the rebuild dvd from www.rotaryaviation.com and I think it was $30 bucks of the most boring guy in the world telling you how it's done over a couple hours I believe. It is well explained though and very informative, I would not have attempted a rebuild without that dvd.
Anyways when I 'cracked the keg' to discover my T2's inner power, I discovered both rotor housings were trash from antifreeze corrosion (change your coolant at least every 3 years!), so I decided to order an entire long block from www.got-jdm.com with a 3 month warranty which ended up being cheaper with shipping than a rebuild even if you use a cheap kit and used rotor housings.
make sure to way your options.
GL
I ordered the rebuild dvd from www.rotaryaviation.com and I think it was $30 bucks of the most boring guy in the world telling you how it's done over a couple hours I believe. It is well explained though and very informative, I would not have attempted a rebuild without that dvd.
Anyways when I 'cracked the keg' to discover my T2's inner power, I discovered both rotor housings were trash from antifreeze corrosion (change your coolant at least every 3 years!), so I decided to order an entire long block from www.got-jdm.com with a 3 month warranty which ended up being cheaper with shipping than a rebuild even if you use a cheap kit and used rotor housings.
make sure to way your options.
GL
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