is it necessary to swap the dash harness too?
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is it necessary to swap the dash harness too?
i'm doing a complete swap from an 87' TII to a 87' sport. i've swap basically everything i can already (whole rear end, engine, tranny, fuse boxes, engine harness, ecu, driveshaft, etc. etc.). havent put in the engine/tranny yet. that would be today.
anyways, a friend of mine told me that i need to swap the dash harness too because it's different from the n/a harness. i'm trying to take out the harness right now and it's a b*tch to do. and even worst, have to do it all over again to swap it to the my shell. so my question is, is it really that necessary to swap the dash harness? and if i dont, what are the consequences?
thanks in advance
anyways, a friend of mine told me that i need to swap the dash harness too because it's different from the n/a harness. i'm trying to take out the harness right now and it's a b*tch to do. and even worst, have to do it all over again to swap it to the my shell. so my question is, is it really that necessary to swap the dash harness? and if i dont, what are the consequences?
thanks in advance
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yea...i figured that, it's just so much more work and time. but yea, i just got to man up and just do it if it's best. do you know what the consequences or the difference is if i dont?
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Do it right and leave the original non turbo emissions harness in the car. You call it a engine harness. I don't.
There's no reason to change the FRONT harness or the harness going to the gauges. IF you leave the original combination meter in the car. Using a turbo combination meter does you no good at all. You lose the volt meter and gain a disfunctiional boost gauge. Senseless.
There's no reason to change the FRONT harness or the harness going to the gauges. IF you leave the original combination meter in the car. Using a turbo combination meter does you no good at all. You lose the volt meter and gain a disfunctiional boost gauge. Senseless.
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Do it right and leave the original non turbo emissions harness in the car. You call it a engine harness. I don't.
There's no reason to change the FRONT harness or the harness going to the gauges. IF you leave the original combination meter in the car. Using a turbo combination meter does you no good at all. You lose the volt meter and gain a disfunctiional boost gauge. Senseless.
There's no reason to change the FRONT harness or the harness going to the gauges. IF you leave the original combination meter in the car. Using a turbo combination meter does you no good at all. You lose the volt meter and gain a disfunctiional boost gauge. Senseless.
i got two opposite answers..not sure which one to use
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I did it that way and numerous others have also. It's close to plug and play.
If you use a turboii emissions harness with a non turbo front harness you have to alter the two plugs that mate b/t the Front and Emissions harness. If you use the whole non turbo harnesses, then you have no alterations to make to those two plugs.
The combination meter: There's nothing to gain by putting in a tubo combination meter for the reasons I suggested above in the other post.
Remember the word CLOSE to plug and play. The two wire changes are you have to lengthen the BAC harness so it can reach over to the right side of the engine from where it was on the left. Two wires involved.
The other is that the Twin Scroll Solenoid on a series four needs a plug. That plug currently is the one for the Split Air Solenoid. That plug is located approx where the thermostat housing is. It would have to be lengthened about a foot and a half to reach the twin scroll solenoid which is located on the vacuum piping on the left side of the engine. Two wires.
If you use a turboii emissions harness with a non turbo front harness you have to alter the two plugs that mate b/t the Front and Emissions harness. If you use the whole non turbo harnesses, then you have no alterations to make to those two plugs.
The combination meter: There's nothing to gain by putting in a tubo combination meter for the reasons I suggested above in the other post.
Remember the word CLOSE to plug and play. The two wire changes are you have to lengthen the BAC harness so it can reach over to the right side of the engine from where it was on the left. Two wires involved.
The other is that the Twin Scroll Solenoid on a series four needs a plug. That plug currently is the one for the Split Air Solenoid. That plug is located approx where the thermostat housing is. It would have to be lengthened about a foot and a half to reach the twin scroll solenoid which is located on the vacuum piping on the left side of the engine. Two wires.
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#9
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So if you have eliminated the twin scroll and the emissions from the s4 TII motor this is a plug and play swap, ecu and all? Tach and speedo both will work too? Would this be the same for an 87 TII into 88 vert swap (minus injector resistors) as that is my current project?
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Originally Posted by nitronatefc
So if you have eliminated the twin scroll and the emissions from the s4 TII motor this is a plug and play swap, ecu and all? Tach and speedo both will work too? Would this be the same for an 87 TII into 88 vert swap (minus injector resistors) as that is my current project?
IF you use the non turbo EM harness then it would be close to plug and play IF you use the turbo ECU and turbo afm and turbo Boost/pressure sensor.
#12
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
As long as you DO NOT use the turbo EM harness. IF you use the turbo EM harness, then you have problems with the plugs on the turbo EM harness that mate with the NON TURBO Front harness. Even then that can be overcome, but I'm tired of repeating myself on how or why.
IF you use the non turbo EM harness then it would be close to plug and play IF you use the turbo ECU and turbo afm and turbo Boost/pressure sensor.
IF you use the non turbo EM harness then it would be close to plug and play IF you use the turbo ECU and turbo afm and turbo Boost/pressure sensor.
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Nope. Still not understanding.
The harness attached to the engine is NOT the engine harness. It's the EM harness.
Do NOT use the turbo EM harness on your swap. Use the one that is on the convertible right now. The non turbo EM harness.
No changes to the starter wiring.
You do not NEED a turbo KNOCK BOX. It is ineffectual. Trust me. Forget about the knock sensor all together.
The big question is: Do both cars have the solenod resistor package? or not.
You do need the turbo fuel injectors, but you know that.
The EMISSIONS harness is the harness with the fuel injectors on it and the afm plug, variable resistor plug etc. It is the EM harness.
The ENGINE harness is on the left side of the engine bay. Goes to things like the coils. I REFUSE to call the EM harness the engine harness. Ain't a ever gonna happen. I KNOW I'm pissing in the wind.
The harness attached to the engine is NOT the engine harness. It's the EM harness.
Do NOT use the turbo EM harness on your swap. Use the one that is on the convertible right now. The non turbo EM harness.
No changes to the starter wiring.
You do not NEED a turbo KNOCK BOX. It is ineffectual. Trust me. Forget about the knock sensor all together.
The big question is: Do both cars have the solenod resistor package? or not.
You do need the turbo fuel injectors, but you know that.
The EMISSIONS harness is the harness with the fuel injectors on it and the afm plug, variable resistor plug etc. It is the EM harness.
The ENGINE harness is on the left side of the engine bay. Goes to things like the coils. I REFUSE to call the EM harness the engine harness. Ain't a ever gonna happen. I KNOW I'm pissing in the wind.
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