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Nancy Drew and the Case of the Dissapearing Clutch Fluid

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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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From: Japanabama
Nancy Drew and the Case of the Dissapearing Clutch Fluid

My clutch fluid is constantly disappearing and I can't find any leaks anywhere, and there's no way in heck that it could be evaporating this fast, so any ideas on where it's going to?

I have a stainless clutch line (coated with plastic tool dip) and a relatively new slave cylinder. My master is getting a little rusty and it's the only part I haven't replaced, but I can't find any wet spots...
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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Look up under your dash on the firewall where the clutch master comes through and connects to the pedal.
That's where your rusty ole master is secretly puking out the fluid.
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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That was the second place I looked. No fluid, unless it's all soaked into the floor padding mats...
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Old Dec 12, 2009 | 11:53 PM
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Did you check the matting to see if it's soggy?
Feel the pushrod to the MC and see if it's wet or pull the boot and see if it's filled with fluid?

Since brake fluid doesn't really "evaporate" per se, it's leaking somewhere...out either end of the system or a leaky hose connection.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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It can leak out of the slave cylinder, along the rod, down the clutch fork and into the bellhousing. That may be where it is disappearing to.

Not sure it really matters though. If there is a fault in the system, just replace the clutch, master and hose. Because if you replace one, then it is almost certain the other parts will fail soon after.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 11:41 AM
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I just went through this. I could not prove the leak until the master was off the car. Likely the master is leaking into the interior. Rebuild or replace the master.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by aaron cake
it can leak out of the slave cylinder, along the rod, down the clutch fork and into the bellhousing. That may be where it is disappearing to.
+1
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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Geh, that might explain why my newish ACT HD clutch hasn't felt like when it was new since...it was new. OTOH, I replaced the slave months ago and it's been leaking since before then, I think. Or maybe it was after...
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 03:11 PM
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i hate this problem..i remember having this happen to me..i fixed it real good tho.

:AA:
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by AcidAngel7477
i hate this problem..i remember having this happen to me..i fixed it real good tho.

:AA:
Be sure not to tell how you fixed it cause that would be....ah, informative.
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Old Dec 13, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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In my experience, the leaky slave will function fairly normally until the fluid gets low. I think I drove around with it for like 3 months before it really started to give up.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 12:37 AM
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my bad..i replaced all three components..master, slave & hose...

:AA:

Originally Posted by clokker
Be sure not to tell how you fixed it cause that would be....ah, informative.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 12:02 PM
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Scratch that, my floor mats were literally SOAKED in brake fluid... and they aren't very easy to remove, either. Guess it's time to spend half a paycheck on a new master... my old one is super ugly anyway (rusty and the bottle is basically black on the bottom half).
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Valkyrie
Geh, that might explain why my newish ACT HD clutch hasn't felt like when it was new since...it was new. OTOH, I replaced the slave months ago and it's been leaking since before then, I think. Or maybe it was after...
The HD pressure plate is too much for the master and slave cylinders. They can't handle the additional pressure. Try this: with the engine off, hold the clutch to the floor for about 2 minutes. When you take your foot off the clutch pedal does it stay down? I've seen old slave cylinders leak fluid from the seal when they're used with heavy PP. The fluid stays in the boot then runs down the side of the transmission or into the bell housing and down the throwout arm.
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Valkyrie
Scratch that, my floor mats were literally SOAKED in brake fluid... and they aren't very easy to remove, either. Guess it's time to spend half a paycheck on a new master... my old one is super ugly anyway (rusty and the bottle is basically black on the bottom half).
Its actually pretty easy, about 15mins plus bleeding. Make sure you bench bleed the master before you put it in, will make life alot easier. Then for the first couple times have someone push the pedal to the floor once, hold it, open the bleeder, let air out(its quick), close quick, let pedal up(might have to pull it), and repeat untill you get some pedal, then bleed like normal brakes(pump up and bleed). Hope it helps took me awhile to figure out(went through alot of these through the various FC's ive had).
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo10th
Its actually pretty easy, about 15mins plus bleeding. Make sure you bench bleed the master before you put it in, will make life alot easier. Then for the first couple times have someone push the pedal to the floor once, hold it, open the bleeder, let air out(its quick), close quick, let pedal up(might have to pull it), and repeat untill you get some pedal, then bleed like normal brakes(pump up and bleed). Hope it helps took me awhile to figure out(went through alot of these through the various FC's ive had).
where did this come from?
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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From many wasted hours, and lots of anger lol. Ive posted it a few times a while back ive had like 6 FC's and at least 3 of them had this issue and kinda got it down to an art.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 10:09 AM
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Mine has been doing the same thing. It leaks ever so slightly at the firewall. It has taken an entire year for the fluid level to go down. Very slow leak. I'll just replace it when it dies.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by PvillKnight7
The HD pressure plate is too much for the master and slave cylinders. They can't handle the additional pressure. Try this: with the engine off, hold the clutch to the floor for about 2 minutes. When you take your foot off the clutch pedal does it stay down? I've seen old slave cylinders leak fluid from the seal when they're used with heavy PP. The fluid stays in the boot then runs down the side of the transmission or into the bell housing and down the throwout arm.
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
Hmm... the clutch isn't that much heavier than the stock one, though.

Originally Posted by turbo10th
Its actually pretty easy, about 15mins plus bleeding. Make sure you bench bleed the master before you put it in, will make life alot easier. Then for the first couple times have someone push the pedal to the floor once, hold it, open the bleeder, let air out(its quick), close quick, let pedal up(might have to pull it), and repeat untill you get some pedal, then bleed like normal brakes(pump up and bleed). Hope it helps took me awhile to figure out(went through alot of these through the various FC's ive had).
I know how to do it. I just haven't had to spend money on my car in a while.

On another note, WTF! Advance Auto gave me the wrong master. It's VERY VERY similar but doesn't fit flush with the firewall because the studs are different and the part that goes into the firewall is just slightly longer.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Wait, no.... a little 'finessing' and it fit fine.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by PvillKnight7
The HD pressure plate is too much for the master and slave cylinders. They can't handle the additional pressure. Try this: with the engine off, hold the clutch to the floor for about 2 minutes. When you take your foot off the clutch pedal does it stay down? I've seen old slave cylinders leak fluid from the seal when they're used with heavy PP. The fluid stays in the boot then runs down the side of the transmission or into the bell housing and down the throwout arm.
Unless you drag race you don't need the heavy PP. They will kill your throwout bearing too. Especially the after market brands. Mazda makes the best throwout bearing I've seen. The others wear out faster and make annoying whirling noises.
You can run a stock PP with an after market disc that has a higher metal composition. It works, it's nice to daily drive, and your master and slave can handle the pressure.
Originally Posted by Valkyrie
Hmm... the clutch isn't that much heavier than the stock one, though.


I believe he was talking about the Pressure Plate, not clutch.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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The pressure plate is what makes a clutch light or heavy. It's maybe 30% heavier than the stock one... at most.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 09:26 AM
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That's probably fine. Some pressure plates are really heavy. If you're doing the john basedow left leg work out in stop and go traffic then it's too heavy.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 02:34 PM
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Clutch feels a lot better now that I've replaced...basically everything you can replace. It feels more like it did when I just installed the new clutch.
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