Leave your 5th/6th ports in. I have seen dyno graphs of before and after, and I much prefer the before. There is pretty much 0 gain in the top end, but your low end takes a pretty decent hit.

 

I don't remember seeing anything from Mazdaspeed7 that actually proved a significant improvement from removing the sleeves. In fact I've never seen anyone present solid proof, which would need to be in the form of back-to-back dyno runs or acceleration runs with no changes other than the removal of the sleeves.
And I bet none of them never actually bothered to measure the change in performance to prove those dubious results, whether on a dyno or with a stopwatch.
That's fine when you're racing, but I've yet to see a single race-only NA FC on this forum. Most are street cars, and when you're on the street you spend far more time at low revs than at high revs. You actually spend very little time driving like you describe above.

 

NA street cars: yet another reason why street ports are so popular. Their purpose is for dual duty cars that must be driven around town, or on twisty roads where that sweet rotary flat torque band comes in handy.

A street port is really as far as you can go with the stock clutch and ECU in my opinion. It's really a bang for buck port, because upgrading those two items is $$ and some dyno time tuning it all.

 

Alright guys I guess your probably right. I'm not a stubbern *** like some that I've known. So now comes the problem, with really free flowing exhaust and NO racing beat cuz thats an arm and a leg, how would I make my ports open? I could always do the electronic ports activated by the rpm switch and pressurized by a compressor.

Would you say the pine apple racing sleeves would make a nice difference in the street ported engine?

BTW 88InegraLS, when do you think you can ship the template?

 

Keep the stock main cat.

Really, it isn't as bad as everyone makes it sound, keeping the cat and all. You might lose some ultimate power, but you also very well might gain some low end torque, and the noise level and rotary stink don't get out of control on you.

I'll get your templates off tomorrow. Trust me, you'll like how a broad banded NA engine feels. I'd let you drive my car if you were here. Zjbarra drove it, and it has stock exhaust. I think he liked it (he's building up a TII and has a full exhaust stock port FC NA).

 

Nah to keep the main cat you have to keep the air pump. No way im keeping air pump and rats nest... too much trouble to get it all to work right after touching that stuff cuz of it being so old by now. I was recommended a muffler thats almost like a cherry bomb but can withstand the rotary. I want to put that in the place of the cat and then run some muffler out the back like Aaron's. This will keep the noise level down and make it nice and freeflowing.

Hehe I just have this urge to build another performance engine. I really enjoyed building and porting my 13BT and want to build another one. One rx7 in NA form for daily driver to work and stuff then take out the TII for crusing in and going out in. The TII is fun, but premuim gas with the prices the way they are, plus the TII is very a very thursty beast I must say.

 

Never keep stock cats. There's no such thing as a 15yo cat that flows well. If you want a cat, get an aftermarket high-flow cat that doesn't need air injection.

 

Hey man, don't take it personally, it is not against you or mazdaspeed7. I see that you are fairly new to the forum, please don't believe everything you read here.

I am not trying to bash on anybody, but we (including me) need to post proof before saying that here is the fastest car, or that it is a 14 second car.

BTW - If we were to go by the saying, there was\is a guy in FL with a bridge 6port on a RB manifold and holley running 13.9 sec quarter mile, then again the time slip never showed up either.

 

Another "Beefy NA" thread? YESSS! i love these. I have a list of all the things i could sum up to bring the full potential out of an NA. here goes:

Engine:
-good cone filter (Apex)
-cold air box w/ insulation (check out thermotec.com)
-mandrel bent intake tube, insulation wrapped, polished inside, get rid of 90deg. bends to the MAF
-ported TB and TB mod
-ported black elbow
-RB lighweight rotors (lots of $$$ though)
-ported block (intake/exhaust ports)
-true dual exhaust system (w/ headers insulated of course) ... or even everything if your willing to do it
-replace main pulley and alt. pulley with perfomance one (rx7.com or racingbeat.com)
-cut crush washers off spark plugs (NGK platinum tipped available at rx7.com)
-NGK wires (insulation availible at thermotec.com - promises to guard against misfires)
-EGR mod
-light weight flywheel

Electronics:
-Apex S-AFCII
-Apex Grounding system (apexi claims 8.5 hp!)
-JacobsFC1000 CDI (rx7.com)

Remove:
-A/C
-P/S (i'll pass on that)
-Air Pump
-Charcoal canister (im not sure what this does. somebody please tell me)

Weight Redux:
-Rear hatch carpet
-jack and spare tire
-windshild washer fluid/container (forces you to keep your car clean)
-carbon fiber/ fiberglass hood
-light weight sport battery (relocation for better weight dist.) if you want.


Well thats all i can think of. if there is any more let me know. This should be good for at least 230hp at the crank (e-shaft) and a total est. curb weight of 2,700lbs(?). please correct me if im wrong. Power to weight ratio is approximately 11.8 hp/lb. for an NA. A $155,000 Ferrari 360 carries exaclty 7.764hp/lb. (V8). not bad for 1.3L.

 

oops. for got something.

Fuel Delivery:
-550cc injectors
-Upraded fuel pump

 

here is my set up -
RB header
SPD Intake
TB mod
RB Pullies
ac-ps removed
Bonez cat
apexi N1 exhaust
motorsports mounts
Koyo
STOCK PORT
Before i got my nittos 555r's it ran a best of 9.7@75 mph
I am taking it to the track and should hit 14's in the 1/4 with a stock port ( my new motor is getting built)

 

Hardly it full potential, repalce the ecu, and have a whole new world of options

 

he he. didn't think about that one. nice.

 

THe stock clutch cannot hold the power of a streetported n/a with a few bolt ons. I had a fresh stock clutch in before my streetport, only to start slipping after a few bits of hard driving. It might hold, but I wouldn't try it. Save you some time while you have the motor out.

 

and what about the tranny?

 

There are a handful of people running the n/a tranny behind their turbocharged 6-port motors, a fresh one should hold all the power an n/a can make.

 

i beat the hell out of my n/a tranny with over 300 passes on it, I run a centerforce DF and redline fluids in it

 

IMHO, as loong as you don't abuse it with a 4\6 puck unsrung disc\clutch, it should be fine.

 

cool thanks for all the info.

 

These things will add power...
...but these will make little to no difference.
I think that's highly unlikely. Your mod list may be long, but lots of mods don't necessarily make lots of power. Your modified intake duct for example may look pretty, but isn't going to flow much better than the huge stock duct, particularly since you still have an AFM at the end of it. You simply say "ported block", but you're going to need some seriously huge ports (bordering on bridgeports) to get a 45% increase in power a over stock S5. You haven't even included manifold porting, which would definitely be required.

Totally unnecessary.

 

ok so how much hp do you think this will add all together?

 

The point of these NA threads is to basically scrape for every little pony that can be extracted. I guess if you want you could just put her on juice and maybe to the carb conversion. that should be good for some REAL hp, and not all the small stuff. in my opinion every hp counts. plus i think its fun to think of creative ways to make/free up some hp.

 

Im new to the forum? You've only been on here 1 year more than me. I dont knwo what your talking about calling me new. That just plain pisses me off. I know how to tell if something is BS or not, so no thanks. I'm also a mechanic and I work with a guy who races in the NHRA with a 7 second car. We are always talking about modifications, and the physics of removing the ports makes the car faster at high rpms. No one ever said it makes you slower in racing events, you just lose low end torque. Low end torque is not required for drag racing. Dont be pulling that "your new" **** on me. I built my TII ground up and I am willing to bet you $$ I will whoop your *** in it.

 

I think that for big #'s you will need a custom intake manifold made specifically for the engine based on the timing of the ports and where you want it to make the most usable power. This combined with a tuned exhaust header will get good numbers provided its properly tuned on a chassis dyno and on the street. Don't forget a good stand-alone EMS to control the fuel delivery and ignition.

 

Bottom line...biggest and MOST IMPORTANT mod for any car, any engine (save an Enzo...but still) will be an ECU remap or new tuning. None of the mods listed in the entire thread will come NEAR their potential unless this is done to get it there. Come now, there's been mention of the ECU by like 3-4 people, I know you guys are smart (I'm not being an ***), but don't forget what runs the show.