NA has a weird turbo-lag feel...
Ok... so why is my car having a turbo-lag feel when I allow the rpms to raise past 4000? It delays between 3 and 4000 and then tosses you back in your seat a little, like a turbo is supposed to kick in. It's funny, but I am positive the POS isnt a turbo, so what's going on? How do I fix this? It's got many other issues with it, but I was wondering if other people have had this problem also? She needs a major tune up, but maybe this is something else?
Last edited by PerkyStina; Jan 16, 2005 at 06:21 PM.
secondaries open at 3800, primaryies drop to roughly half the initial duty and the aux ports come online... all at or around 3800...
Below that you're running on the hope that a fast intake velocity will give you your power. Just the fact its a n/a means theres going to be little power below the 3800 tradeoff. On top of that, worn sparkplugs or a dirt airfilter will make it that much worse.
And if your aux ports are stuck open, just forgetta bout it. You won't have crap for low end then. The basic tuneup should help alot. You will probably always notice the kick around 3800 though, it won't be a simple power increase that gently puts you in your seat, its more on/off, which makes you think below 3800 you've got that "lag"
Below that you're running on the hope that a fast intake velocity will give you your power. Just the fact its a n/a means theres going to be little power below the 3800 tradeoff. On top of that, worn sparkplugs or a dirt airfilter will make it that much worse.
And if your aux ports are stuck open, just forgetta bout it. You won't have crap for low end then. The basic tuneup should help alot. You will probably always notice the kick around 3800 though, it won't be a simple power increase that gently puts you in your seat, its more on/off, which makes you think below 3800 you've got that "lag"
Originally Posted by sectachrome
search for '3800 rpm hesitation'. usually caused by bad grounds.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,106
Likes: 0
From: London, Ontario, Canada
I'd also do a test of your TPS. Check the full rance of motion with a multimeter or better yet an oscilloscope to see if it's making a smooth transision and if it's producing the correct peak and base values.
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Originally Posted by Kenteth
secondaries open at 3800, primaryies drop to roughly half the initial duty and the aux ports come online... all at or around 3800...
Below that you're running on the hope that a fast intake velocity will give you your power. Just the fact its a n/a means theres going to be little power below the 3800 tradeoff. On top of that, worn sparkplugs or a dirt airfilter will make it that much worse.
And if your aux ports are stuck open, just forgetta bout it. You won't have crap for low end then. The basic tuneup should help alot. You will probably always notice the kick around 3800 though, it won't be a simple power increase that gently puts you in your seat, its more on/off, which makes you think below 3800 you've got that "lag"
Below that you're running on the hope that a fast intake velocity will give you your power. Just the fact its a n/a means theres going to be little power below the 3800 tradeoff. On top of that, worn sparkplugs or a dirt airfilter will make it that much worse.
And if your aux ports are stuck open, just forgetta bout it. You won't have crap for low end then. The basic tuneup should help alot. You will probably always notice the kick around 3800 though, it won't be a simple power increase that gently puts you in your seat, its more on/off, which makes you think below 3800 you've got that "lag"
Help me out. Layman's terms would be most helpful. Hehe. I am not clueless, just need extra clues. LOL
My dad is going to help me a bit, so I won't be at it alone with the FC... but just so I know and get a good understanding
Last edited by PerkyStina; Jan 19, 2005 at 04:40 PM.
Originally Posted by perkystina
Ok... so why is my car having a turbo-lag feel when I allow the rpms to raise past 4000? It delays between 3 and 4000 and then tosses you back in your seat a little, like a turbo is supposed to kick in. It's funny, but I am positive the POS isnt a turbo, so what's going on? How do I fix this? It's got many other issues with it, but I was wondering if other people have had this problem also? She needs a major tune up, but maybe this is something else?
Originally Posted by Molotovman
If you can't get it fixed, Just tell you're friends it's the "cool turbo feeling".
Anyway, fuel injector issue... that explains alot about why I get such great gas mileage then. LOL (I usually shift up at 3000-3500 RPMs, to get better gas mileage.)
Someone wanna give me good advice, please? My "friends" all say different things, but I would like to know what would be the best way to make my transmission and clutch last longer. Some people are going to say stupid stuff like, "drive like a bat out of hell to get ahead of everyone," but I can get ahead of everyone just fine shifting up the way I do... I would like some good mechanical advice about whether or not the way I am driving is wrong.
The transmission in the car allows me to not necessarily take curves in 2nd, but often in third, I can speed at 10 mph in second, without the RPMs raising past 4500. I don't really drive many other manual transmission cars, so I don't know if it's just my car being weird.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,106
Likes: 0
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Did you ever your hessitation?
There's a "shift" light that comes on and it's a little earlier than 3000rpms. The way to make your clutch last is to be easy on it. Limit hard launches, smoothly disengage the clutch, etc. Your tranny fluid is probably original. You could change it to a 75W90 full synthetic.
If your car is running correctly, to acheive optimal fuel economy in the city there's not a ton that you can do. Drive smoothly, keep the revs down (that's not much fun). What's your tire pressure at? Depending on your tires you probably want to be @ ~35psi. If your air filter needs replacing a K&N cone filter will net you a noticable fuel economy improvement (highway ~10%). On the highway keep your speed down. It makes a HUGE difference to fuel economy when running in 5th @ ~3400rpm instead of 3800rpm. Another substantial gain can be made by driving even slower. Drafting trucks can gain you another ~10%. There are lots of threads where people have posted silly minor steps to improve fuel economy. I've posted the ones that make sense.
There's a "shift" light that comes on and it's a little earlier than 3000rpms. The way to make your clutch last is to be easy on it. Limit hard launches, smoothly disengage the clutch, etc. Your tranny fluid is probably original. You could change it to a 75W90 full synthetic.
If your car is running correctly, to acheive optimal fuel economy in the city there's not a ton that you can do. Drive smoothly, keep the revs down (that's not much fun). What's your tire pressure at? Depending on your tires you probably want to be @ ~35psi. If your air filter needs replacing a K&N cone filter will net you a noticable fuel economy improvement (highway ~10%). On the highway keep your speed down. It makes a HUGE difference to fuel economy when running in 5th @ ~3400rpm instead of 3800rpm. Another substantial gain can be made by driving even slower. Drafting trucks can gain you another ~10%. There are lots of threads where people have posted silly minor steps to improve fuel economy. I've posted the ones that make sense.
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