Hey guys,

I've got an 87 NA (see mods in sig). Next year I'll be running with a streetported motor and a few more little things.

I wanted to know what you guys are running in terms of fuel system and engine management, and possibly what dyno numbers you guys have got if you've hit up a dyno.

I've read that some people switch to 550cc secondaries, but then I also read the stock ones can handle up to the coveted 200 whp.

So what are you guys running and how has it worked for you?

IE: Size injectors? Standalone? Piggyback (has anyone used the Apexi AFC Neo yet?)?

Thanks.

 

I have a auxilliary streetport (not really comparable) on the stock system.

The stock ECU/system runs plenty rich. Unless you're doing a big streetport, I can't see you needing an upgraded fuel system. But, I'm not an expert on porting.

 

I didn't think I'd need to upgrade either, but that's why I'm curious to see what other guys have been doing.

 

Im in the process of upgarding my fuel system : 440cc primarys, 680cc secondaries, Apexi SAFCII (purchasing next week). Ill let you know how it works.

 

680cc Secondaries? Holy ****. I hope you have a large street port!

I run an untuned SAFC2 right now. I want to get a AFR monitor and logger but its to much right now. I only have below 4000 tuned for fuel ecconomy. Seems to be working pretty good.

The SAFC NEo seems neat. But I wouldn't get it. Your paying for the looks on that one. I will have to find more info on it.

 

i'm running: d-bridgeport, 51mm throttle bodies, dual MSD, RB 2 to 1 header, 3" all the way w/ 2 resonators and a magnaflow muffler. still fairly loud though, lol

 

I'm running a damn big street port with ported exhaust, and I am running the stock fuel system with no problems.

 

Moderate streetport, BP auxports. Havent been able to get it above 6k due to what I think is an old fuel pump. got it up to 7000 rpm today with some bucking but both the Aux ports and VDI kicked it and the car jumped forward. Im looking forward to appropriate fueling, standalone and exhaust.


BC

 

running pinneapple racing sleeves, intake, Ignition pack, Fiero E-fan, SAFC, RB header and precilencer mated to the oldschool HKS 52mm catback......tuned to 150rwhp..........i think it can get better HP numbers though.

 

I'm running an expensive setup, I won't even enumerate it all here or suggest you do the same as its alot of work and money.

I will however suggest you try keep your mods on a small budget, put nitrous on the car, its the best price:performance you can do, just be methodical about it or you will break something.

Also, in terms of fuel tuning, you can do the safc approach to get a cheap solution, I have managed to get my protege daily beater making better power and far more responsive by simply opening the flapper AFM and moving the toothed wheel a couple teeth changing the spring tension, it has a very similar EFI configuration to the 2nd generation rx7. I don't recall what the direction was, but it's a *EASY* mod, and you can immediately see the results, and it is trivial to undo if you go in the wrong direction or it just doesnt work out.

This is what I'm talking about:
http://pengaru.com/~swivel/cars/rx-7...w_IMG_3238.JPG

See the large toothed wheel? See the black coiled rachet that prevents the ring gear from reversing (unwinding)? thats the ring you move to adjust the spring tension, it can go in either direciton, but you have to hold back the black rachet if you have to releive tension on the main spring (unwind). It's that simple, the cover is just held on / sealed with silicone.

A quick summary of my fc: street port intake & exhaust (s5 mix of turbo and na housings), haltech, individual throttles, -6 fuel system, 4x550cc p&h injectors, the list keeps going.

 

if i was still n/a, i would go for some carbs. its cheaper than standalone

 

Other then the rebuild, I've got everything else budgetted fairly well.

Thanks for all the input guys. Just seeing what other NA guys have been doing and how it's working for them, regardless of how much work/money went into it.

 

Have you dynoed this setup yet?

 

If I had an N/A FC id have to go carb like someone already said. My FB with 12A has a nice Mikuni carb setup, Full RB street port exhaust setup and some other little mods like emissions delete and no p/s or a/c. Its weight is a little less and its a 12A not 13B but even still. It feels really good even though it has slight detonation from messed up fuel delivery. But I bet my FB could pull on my stock Turbo II if it was running right. I bet a nice rebuilt ported 13B with a nice carb and exhaust would be more than fun

 

Ok, my words just got shoved up my ***. You deserve those injectors

 

HeHe whew hew...Ok My old car was an 86 sport(5 lug). Large Street port, exhaust port, 3 window bearings, (10K RPMs!!!!)Rb header/presilencer, N1 cat back, (not that loud), 550 secondaries, 90 gxl uim, lim, lim had the ports removed and holes filled in, uim wired open, I reamed the channels out with a dremmel. 300zxTT rims, air filter was located in front nose with hole cut for air, No emmisions, no omp(premix), RB lightweight flywheel, street strip clutch.
1. I out ran a buddys modded eclipse turbo up to a 100mph
2. Interstate cruising @ 90mph I got about 28mpg
3. This car did not run rich on factory computer
4. I so wish I had dynoed this car
5. the %$#@ that bought the motor from me blew it up using nitrous(i hate that stuff) all motor or all turbo or leave it alone!

I now have a 91 vert and im doin it all again for drift this time. I am shooting for 250 flywheel hp 2 rotor NA. Ive seen it before and I dont think itll be that hard. I know how to port, I dont know whitch way I will go this time Ive been talking to some of the builders (atkins and others) Baby bridge port, BIG street port or what, time will tell. It will pull 10k rpms again I may go Haltech. But it'll be fast for sure!

 

why do most carbed n/a's run downdraft carbs instead of sidedraft? i would think a straight shot into the engine would be better.

 

no... datalogs put it in the high 13's though, not positive on the weight probably around 2500lbs without driver.

I have the rev limiter at 9500 right now, and it progressively pulls harder all the way up to the limiter, when I have the catalytic converter off the car anyways.

The engine has other stuff done, I didnt get into details... hardened stat gears w/race bearings (RB), fd corner seals, s5 na rotors.. aluminum flywheel. the intake is all changed, aux ports are always open, aux port runners have no actuators or bushings in their path, 48mm dcoe throttles, all the housings were new when I built the motor.

it's too expensive to go this route though, I might put a turbo on the car to see where it goes but it would really change the nature of the thing alot...

 

a straight shot is better, but you have intake length to work into the available space...

i think twm has a dual dcoe throttle manifold for the 6 port, if I remember correctly, that is a near-straight shot just sitting right off the side of the motor. I would expect drivability to be kindof a pain in the *** with this setup though.

the pre-renesis star mazda race cars ran sealed stock port 6 port motors with a sidedraught dcoe carb setup, star mazda specific one-piece manifold, and they make ~180hp on carbs with stock ports, regulated rev limit and timing... if you pull out the stops > 200hp is easy.

 

 

I'm in progress of doing my first rotary build with a S4. Currently I have RX-8 eshaft with stationary gears and multi-window bearings. Will be doing large streetport with functional aux bridgeport (rpm switch triggered) and pineapple inserts. S4 TII rotor housings are on the way which will have mild porting done to them as well as the S4 manifold if I don't run into something better. Will also be using FD corner seals and springs. I also have a RB duel exhaust header I'll be installing (came with the car) and I'll be making a section with a presilencer to go between it and the RB Y-Pipe (already on the car). Don't know what I'll be doing about fuel yet other than installing megasquirt after I have the car running and broke in.

I have an S5 transmission I'll be putting new bearings in and installing and will also be rebuilding an LSD to put in. Suspension for the moment is mainly what needs to be fixed, will be installing aftermarket shocks for the back and might do Eiboch springs while I'm at it. Currently installing energy suspension urethane bushings on front and back control arms and have gusseted the rear cross member and done some additional welding.

Currently have about $1000 into engine parts for the eshaft, stationary gears, oil chain, performance engine mounts, exhaust flanges, and rotor housings. I'm expecting another $1000 worth of parts into the engine.

If I'm pushing 200 whp after the MS I'll be happy until I build a turbo engine.