mattdashat04

dont have a brown wire that goes to the boost sensor

satch

iTrader: (1)

What wire colors do you have? And how many wires in all?

Edit: Saw your previous post and these are not the factory wire colors just to let you know. W/the plug connected and key to on one wire would have 12 volts, another 5 volts, another 2 volts, and a fourth is the ground and it would have zero volts.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

make sure you aren't checking off an FCD that may be jumpered between the factory harness and the pressure sensor.

mattdashat04

the plug that does into the boost sensor is red blue white and black i got 5 volts from blue 12 volts from red and nothing from white or black

satch

iTrader: (1)

Well of the two wires you had no voltage from, one is a ground so that explains that, but the other wire should have two volts, but as mentioned, the plug needs to be connected to the sensor when taking these measurements.

Secondly, how did you come to the conclusion that the injectors were not opening? The injectors which are easily accessible are the secondary injectors and these don't activate unless the engine is under load and the rpm is above 3800. The primaries are installed into the engine and are hard to access so how did you check these if you checked them at all?

mattdashat04

i checked the secondarys the car isnt getting fuel is all that is missing fuel is getting to the injectors and nothing is happening

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

and how do you know the secondaries aren't working?

mattdashat04

car will crank and crank and not fire i sprayed starting fulid in intake and car kicked over but died shortly after i stopped useing the fluid i dont know what else to do...

mattdashat04

spark plugs are dry thought they would be wet with fuel with all the pumping of the gas am i wrong what can i do im stuck at this point in time

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can try jumpering the fuel check connector and attempt to start the car.

mattdashat04

thought that was for if the fuel pump wasnt working

satch

iTrader: (1)

It is for the pump. And has the car had a new engine installed recently? And make sure the flapper door to the AFM opens upon starting the car.

mattdashat04

afm meter works properly factory engine fuel pump works whats next

satch

iTrader: (1)

How did you check the pump?

mattdashat04

because the fuel lines are pressured once i depressurized them

satch

iTrader: (1)

At the ECU pins 3E (Light Green wire) and 3C (Light Green/Black wire) are the primary injectors. W/key to start these pins/wires should pulse a ground. A meter would be hard to use but a set of LED lights will flicker indicating the ECU injector drivers are working. One of the LED wires goes to the injector pin and the other wire goes to a voltage source that has power w/key to start and that would be pin 3I (Black/White wire). Do not use any other type of bulb except for an LED as you can burn up the ECU.

And do you have a spare CAS?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

have you tried swapping the 2 fuel hoses that go to the engine?

shadowboym

Issue was the map sensor wasn't plugged in at all lol