n/a turbo swap HELP!!!
06-11-04, 12:03 AM
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n/a turbo swap HELP!!!
ok hears the deal. just did the swap had a complete fromt clip in which i took everything out of, and put it in the n/a. the problem is the car does not get out of it own way. had a compression test done everything was cool. so i fugured i would try and pull some codes. i cannot get the check engine light to come on, even when i unplug some sensors which would throw a code.
the heater fan inside does not work now and either do the windshield wipers. therefore i am leaning toward a wiring problem. i used the turbo ecu and engine harness. did i miss something?? i have gone over the car again and again. maybe i need another set of eyes or what. it is just getting frustrating.
this is what i have replaced so far since the problem
another new engine harness
new ecu
new injectors
anyone please help the car will not idle worth crap the engine is good what could this be
the heater fan inside does not work now and either do the windshield wipers. therefore i am leaning toward a wiring problem. i used the turbo ecu and engine harness. did i miss something?? i have gone over the car again and again. maybe i need another set of eyes or what. it is just getting frustrating.
this is what i have replaced so far since the problem
another new engine harness
new ecu
new injectors
anyone please help the car will not idle worth crap the engine is good what could this be
06-11-04, 12:12 AM
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Are you sure you have your dash harness plugged into the ECU? Or that the ECU is even good? It sounds like this is your problem. What idiot lights come on when you turn the ignition to the ON position? Whoops, didn't see the 'parts replaced'.
Alright, the wipers come off the main harness, are you sure everything under the dash is plugged in properly? That all the connectors are plugged in? (there's a few up high behind the dash if I remember, other than just the ECU), It seems like you're missing a connection entirely somewhere.
Alright, the wipers come off the main harness, are you sure everything under the dash is plugged in properly? That all the connectors are plugged in? (there's a few up high behind the dash if I remember, other than just the ECU), It seems like you're missing a connection entirely somewhere.
Last edited by SonicRaT; 06-11-04 at 12:14 AM.
06-11-04, 11:22 AM
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thats what i am thinking, but where? if something is not plugged in for the dash, would this make the car run like total crap though. thier are 2 plugs up kinda in the kick panel. i got them connected, all the ecu is plugged in and grounded. i am loosing my brain over this car. i will almost guarantee it is something, very simple i am just not seing it.
06-11-04, 02:01 PM
#4
Well tell us which way you have done the swap.
Have you kept the NA interioir harness? If so you did rewire it right? to make the temp gauage work and alternator
Did you plug the wiper into the EFI harness? I know it's stupid but it could be that simple.
The next step is to test the harness. Tone it out
Find the pin out on the wiper side and then find it on the EFI plug which connects to the interioir harness(big orange-ish plug).
If you get no tone then you have a break in the wire.
Then test from the interior harness end plug to the wiper switch.
No tone? etc.........
Pretty much the ECU doesn't deal with the wipers or inside fan. The only common thing is some woires run through the same harness but break off and do their own thing.
You may want to check your fuses. There is a chance you've fried something.
I know when I had my car at a shop the dumbasses put 16++++++ Volts through my system trying to get the car to crank over. He ended up blowing a bunch of fuses and frying my wiper switch.
Have you kept the NA interioir harness? If so you did rewire it right? to make the temp gauage work and alternator
Did you plug the wiper into the EFI harness? I know it's stupid but it could be that simple.
The next step is to test the harness. Tone it out
Find the pin out on the wiper side and then find it on the EFI plug which connects to the interioir harness(big orange-ish plug).
If you get no tone then you have a break in the wire.
Then test from the interior harness end plug to the wiper switch.
No tone? etc.........
Pretty much the ECU doesn't deal with the wipers or inside fan. The only common thing is some woires run through the same harness but break off and do their own thing.
You may want to check your fuses. There is a chance you've fried something.
I know when I had my car at a shop the dumbasses put 16++++++ Volts through my system trying to get the car to crank over. He ended up blowing a bunch of fuses and frying my wiper switch.
06-11-04, 02:22 PM
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ok well u have made my brain think now. rewire the interior harness??? did not touch it. the car starts up i can drive it down the road and all that. just does not run worth ****. seems like it is running on one rotor or something. but i have done compression check 20 billion times. got air-fuel and spark obviously cause i can drive the car. so go into a little mre detail on the interior harness i have not touched it. if the wiring is wrong in the dash would this caus the car, to go into a limp mode of some sort. thus making the engine not run right, so i can mess anything up???? all the fuses have been checked i even replaced them all. i am not to worried about the wipers and all that crap, just want the car to run the way it should. but if some harness inside the car has to deal with why the motor doesnt run right then tell me how to test/fix the dumb thing
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06-13-04, 05:19 PM
#9
well on a turbo harness the temp sensor for the ECU is ion a different pin location.
Check www.rotaryresurrection.com in the tech section in the wires.
If it starts up then I would guess check the timing.
Timng can make it feel super sluggish.
Then check that you have spark from each coil.
Maybe your running on leading or trailing only?
My buddy went dsrifting and nailed a curb and knocked off his leading wires.
It drove but was really slow and crappy.
Check www.rotaryresurrection.com in the tech section in the wires.
If it starts up then I would guess check the timing.
Timng can make it feel super sluggish.
Then check that you have spark from each coil.
Maybe your running on leading or trailing only?
My buddy went dsrifting and nailed a curb and knocked off his leading wires.
It drove but was really slow and crappy.
06-13-04, 09:53 PM
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engine came out of a 91 turbo, car and was put into a 91 non-turbo car. i have done the timing numerous times, new tps even. all the coils spark, i took a screw driver and held on to them. shocked the **** out of me, so i know that all t and L side coils work. i am probably going to end up taking it to the rx-7 store this week sometime, if i can't figure it out. i know that it is something stupid , and if it is that simple i am goin to pay a lot. please someone help me
06-15-04, 11:03 AM
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no i cannot get it to even come on even if i unplug other things. which makes me want to lean toward a wiring problem. if the check engine light was on it would be simple to fix, pull the code fix the problem simple. but it will not come on at all
06-15-04, 12:33 PM
#15
Your wipers and **** dont work because you used a jspec RHD harness from the clip, didnt you. That thing is missing a big plug full of some wires for our LHD cars. You need to find yourself a LHD, us spec 89-91 turbo engine harness.
As for running on one rotor, does it do this all the time, or only when you take it out and try to drive it under load? IF it does it all the time, perhaps a primar injector is bad, or not getting voltage. Pull the UIM, pull back the 2 primary (lower) injectors with rail and wiring, hold them in the rail firmly with your hand, put a towel under the injectors, have someone crank the car, and watch to see that they both work...perhaps you'll find one that does not.
As for running on one rotor, does it do this all the time, or only when you take it out and try to drive it under load? IF it does it all the time, perhaps a primar injector is bad, or not getting voltage. Pull the UIM, pull back the 2 primary (lower) injectors with rail and wiring, hold them in the rail firmly with your hand, put a towel under the injectors, have someone crank the car, and watch to see that they both work...perhaps you'll find one that does not.
06-18-04, 03:48 PM
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i did get an american engine harness, as for the injector issue i did all that everything works. the engine runs like crap all the time. i pulled the 1st rotor plugs out, and they were normal. i pulled the 2nd rotor plugs out and they looked like they were brand new. thus being like that i thought, well an injector is bad. so thats when i put all new injectors in it. and i am still having the same problem. i have put since then a new ecu, another engine harness. so i have no freaking clue what it could be. unless someone can give me some more ideas here
06-18-04, 07:10 PM
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how can i pin point the problem. i know thier is compression b/c i have had numerous tests done . i no their is spark, because i have held the wires and they shocked the **** out of me. so its gotta be fuel then. but i have replaced all the injectors, ecu, and the engine wiring harness. so what else is thier to look at???
06-18-04, 08:38 PM
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I don't deal in series five at all. Never even touched one. But if someone GAVE ME your car, and I wanted to make it work.................I'd take my Fluke Meter with the series five wiring diagrams, and chase out each and every wire from the ECU to it's terminal point. Barring that, I'd take the meter, backprobe each wire on the ECU with the engine at idle and compare my results with the section in the fsm called CONTROL SYSTEM.
Another tack would be to take a meter and find a good ground for the neg lead and back probe each primary and each secondary injector at idle and while driving to get a gander at what is happening. The primarys should start out at around 11/12 volts and as you apply throttle there should be a steady voltage drop. The secondary injectors should start around battery voltage and stay there until you drive the car and put a load on the engine over 3500 rpm, then they should take a dramatic drop in voltage.
I have a idea your not really into meters.......and if that is so, start getting into them. It's not a big deal. Just make sure you get a fairly decent Digital Meter.
Part of your problem might be the oil metering pump signal not getting to the ECU and its going into that so called limp mode. I don't know. I'm series four oriented.
I already forgot...does this car even idle?
Another tack would be to take a meter and find a good ground for the neg lead and back probe each primary and each secondary injector at idle and while driving to get a gander at what is happening. The primarys should start out at around 11/12 volts and as you apply throttle there should be a steady voltage drop. The secondary injectors should start around battery voltage and stay there until you drive the car and put a load on the engine over 3500 rpm, then they should take a dramatic drop in voltage.
I have a idea your not really into meters.......and if that is so, start getting into them. It's not a big deal. Just make sure you get a fairly decent Digital Meter.
Part of your problem might be the oil metering pump signal not getting to the ECU and its going into that so called limp mode. I don't know. I'm series four oriented.
I already forgot...does this car even idle?
06-18-04, 08:57 PM
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well i guess i will check it out. i will have my electronics guy do all the metering ****. sincei am lost when it comes to wiring. so thanks for the start and to answear your question no it willl not idle unless you have ur foot on the pedal
06-18-04, 09:27 PM
#22
Well, if you trust your compression test results, and you have checked each wire/plug for spark (keeping in mind that plugs do foul), then you probably have a fuel issue.
Tear off your upper intake, and your lower fuel rail. Leave the injectors plugged in, and installed into the rail. Put a towel underneath them, aim them up/away from the engine, (taking care for personal safety), and have a friend crank the car over. Observe what comes out...they should alternate, and both spray a good amount of fuel in a cone pattern. Lack of fuel, or drips, are unacceptable. From there, find out why the injectors aren't firing. IS there electrical pulse going to them? IS there a bad connection? IS fuel being sent through the lines from the pump, and is there adequate fuel pressure? Note that you MUST have the supply line from the fuel filter routed through teh lower rail first, and the return line comes from the FPR. Hook them up backwards and you'll get no fuel into the rails.
Tear off your upper intake, and your lower fuel rail. Leave the injectors plugged in, and installed into the rail. Put a towel underneath them, aim them up/away from the engine, (taking care for personal safety), and have a friend crank the car over. Observe what comes out...they should alternate, and both spray a good amount of fuel in a cone pattern. Lack of fuel, or drips, are unacceptable. From there, find out why the injectors aren't firing. IS there electrical pulse going to them? IS there a bad connection? IS fuel being sent through the lines from the pump, and is there adequate fuel pressure? Note that you MUST have the supply line from the fuel filter routed through teh lower rail first, and the return line comes from the FPR. Hook them up backwards and you'll get no fuel into the rails.
06-19-04, 01:36 AM
#23
Originally posted by RotaryResurrection
Well, if you trust your compression test results, and you have checked each wire/plug for spark (keeping in mind that plugs do foul), then you probably have a fuel issue.
Tear off your upper intake, and your lower fuel rail. Leave the injectors plugged in, and installed into the rail. Put a towel underneath them, aim them up/away from the engine, (taking care for personal safety), and have a friend crank the car over. Observe what comes out...they should alternate, and both spray a good amount of fuel in a cone pattern. Lack of fuel, or drips, are unacceptable. From there, find out why the injectors aren't firing. IS there electrical pulse going to them? IS there a bad connection? IS fuel being sent through the lines from the pump, and is there adequate fuel pressure? Note that you MUST have the supply line from the fuel filter routed through teh lower rail first, and the return line comes from the FPR. Hook them up backwards and you'll get no fuel into the rails.
Well, if you trust your compression test results, and you have checked each wire/plug for spark (keeping in mind that plugs do foul), then you probably have a fuel issue.
Tear off your upper intake, and your lower fuel rail. Leave the injectors plugged in, and installed into the rail. Put a towel underneath them, aim them up/away from the engine, (taking care for personal safety), and have a friend crank the car over. Observe what comes out...they should alternate, and both spray a good amount of fuel in a cone pattern. Lack of fuel, or drips, are unacceptable. From there, find out why the injectors aren't firing. IS there electrical pulse going to them? IS there a bad connection? IS fuel being sent through the lines from the pump, and is there adequate fuel pressure? Note that you MUST have the supply line from the fuel filter routed through teh lower rail first, and the return line comes from the FPR. Hook them up backwards and you'll get no fuel into the rails.