N/A Turbo Electrical, assistance would be appriciated.
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N/A Turbo Electrical, assistance would be appriciated.
Hey guys whats up. I'm preparing to Turbo my N/A motor, but currently I'm at a fork in the road so to speak. I'm bolting all the turbo manifolds onto my N/A block, and what I was curious to know is, as far as engine management goes, I've read on two possible solutions
i can either A, put the turbo II ecu into my N/a harness, and redo a few wires
or, just run a Turbo II ecu and Turbo II harness.
My question is, if i run the turbo II ecu and harness, what all will I need to end up changing? the entire harness? or just the engine harness?
or if I elected to use my N/A harness and turbo II ecu, I know that wires would have to be repinned, can anyone specify which ones to where?
the help is appriciated, thanks in advance.
i can either A, put the turbo II ecu into my N/a harness, and redo a few wires
or, just run a Turbo II ecu and Turbo II harness.
My question is, if i run the turbo II ecu and harness, what all will I need to end up changing? the entire harness? or just the engine harness?
or if I elected to use my N/A harness and turbo II ecu, I know that wires would have to be repinned, can anyone specify which ones to where?
the help is appriciated, thanks in advance.
#2
Mazda goes MMMMMMMM
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If you got it I would use a T2 ecu and harness. The T2 ecu would do a better fuel managing job than the N/A.
And as far as the sensors and what not, except for the knock sensor(if your using it) the sensors plug in the same. As long as you're not crossing S4 and S5.
And as far as the sensors and what not, except for the knock sensor(if your using it) the sensors plug in the same. As long as you're not crossing S4 and S5.
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Yeah, either way I would be using a turbo II ecu.
what im curious about though is, Option one: if I use the Turbo II ecu and N/a harness, I know I will have to repin/rewire a few small things. I was just curious as to what there were and where.
Option two: Other question I had was, if I were to use the Turbo II ecu and Turbo II wiring harness, would It be direct plug and play? and would I have to use the entire turbo II harness, or just the engine harness?
Although, I think that i'd have to use the entire turbo II harness just because of the connection differences. ex: turbo II has the knock sensor, and the same pin on the N/A is for PS.
any help is much appriciated.
what im curious about though is, Option one: if I use the Turbo II ecu and N/a harness, I know I will have to repin/rewire a few small things. I was just curious as to what there were and where.
Option two: Other question I had was, if I were to use the Turbo II ecu and Turbo II wiring harness, would It be direct plug and play? and would I have to use the entire turbo II harness, or just the engine harness?
Although, I think that i'd have to use the entire turbo II harness just because of the connection differences. ex: turbo II has the knock sensor, and the same pin on the N/A is for PS.
any help is much appriciated.
#6
I
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using the s4 NA harness isnt too hard, as thats what im doing ( similar situation)
i would do emissions removal to make it simple( some of the rat nest soloniods are different.... so get rid of em all and no problems)
i opted not to use the knock sensor as u do have to do a tad of wiring to get that working.
then besides that all i had to do was extend the tps conector a few inches, and then extend the BAC like a foot( its on oposite side of motor on turbo)
then i pluged in my t2 components( ecu, afm,boost sensor, injectors,ect) and was good to go!
i would do emissions removal to make it simple( some of the rat nest soloniods are different.... so get rid of em all and no problems)
i opted not to use the knock sensor as u do have to do a tad of wiring to get that working.
then besides that all i had to do was extend the tps conector a few inches, and then extend the BAC like a foot( its on oposite side of motor on turbo)
then i pluged in my t2 components( ecu, afm,boost sensor, injectors,ect) and was good to go!
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Originally Posted by kompressorlogic
using the s4 NA harness isnt too hard, as thats what im doing ( similar situation)
i would do emissions removal to make it simple( some of the rat nest soloniods are different.... so get rid of em all and no problems)
i opted not to use the knock sensor as u do have to do a tad of wiring to get that working.
then besides that all i had to do was extend the tps conector a few inches, and then extend the BAC like a foot( its on oposite side of motor on turbo)
then i pluged in my t2 components( ecu, afm,boost sensor, injectors,ect) and was good to go!
i would do emissions removal to make it simple( some of the rat nest soloniods are different.... so get rid of em all and no problems)
i opted not to use the knock sensor as u do have to do a tad of wiring to get that working.
then besides that all i had to do was extend the tps conector a few inches, and then extend the BAC like a foot( its on oposite side of motor on turbo)
then i pluged in my t2 components( ecu, afm,boost sensor, injectors,ect) and was good to go!
So your using your S4 N/A harness on a TII motor right? I'm just using my N/A block. and bolting the turbo components on it. Hopefully I wont have to make those wiring extensions because im retaining my stock N/A block.
The car runs okay without the knock sensor? thats good to know lol.
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#10
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Originally Posted by kompressorlogic
im using na block like u , i am running a s4 NA 6 port motor with s4 t2 intake manifolds port matched to fit the block, and a s5 turbo.
As for knock, haven't had a problem. Retard the CAS a little manually or get an MSD Box.
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Originally Posted by Karack
i would use a T2 harness if you can get your hands on one, it just simplifies things and will be less of a headache in the long run.
No. He has a series four car and using a turboii EM harness and mating it with a n/a Front harness makes things more complicated. A small example is the loss to the two wires to the alternators small plug.........the mismatch of the wires in the plugs called X-15/x-16 which results in the output of the boost sensor intersecting with the Enigine fuse (not desirable) plus the loss of the oil pressure signal and water temp also (memory) unless the wires to the X-15/X-16 are rearranged. Screw using a TurboII EM harness on a series four n/a harness.
The above only applies to series four, not five.
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The cars being prepped this weekend hopefully, I'm going to start by taking off emissions. I'm gonna order the block off plates, and then get to work on that to make the swap simpler.
Also, anyone have any confirmation for me on the injectors? 87 gxl, its got the resistor under the air box, so that means Im going to need 87 TII Low impedance right?
Also, anyone have any confirmation for me on the injectors? 87 gxl, its got the resistor under the air box, so that means Im going to need 87 TII Low impedance right?
#21
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Low, but if you put some high impedence/resistance injectors it will work fine and will not destroy the injectors nor the injector drivers inside the ECU.
If you put high in, then either leave everything as is, or you can take the solenoid resistor out and cut the resistor harness in half. Be sure to cut the wires in the middle so you can resplice them back together in the future if needed.
Place the half with the metal resistor package on the shelf in the garage, then splice ALL FIVE wire together and protect the spliced area. REconnect that part back up to the harness. Now you have the same setup as a high impedence car (in effect).
If you put high in, then either leave everything as is, or you can take the solenoid resistor out and cut the resistor harness in half. Be sure to cut the wires in the middle so you can resplice them back together in the future if needed.
Place the half with the metal resistor package on the shelf in the garage, then splice ALL FIVE wire together and protect the spliced area. REconnect that part back up to the harness. Now you have the same setup as a high impedence car (in effect).
#22
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
No. He has a series four car and using a turboii EM harness and mating it with a n/a Front harness makes things more complicated. A small example is the loss to the two wires to the alternators small plug.........the mismatch of the wires in the plugs called X-15/x-16 which results in the output of the boost sensor intersecting with the Enigine fuse (not desirable) plus the loss of the oil pressure signal and water temp also (memory) unless the wires to the X-15/X-16 are rearranged. Screw using a TurboII EM harness on a series four n/a harness.
The above only applies to series four, not five.
The above only applies to series four, not five.
That really doesnt sound all that hard to re-pin . . . . is it? elaborate? just chop off the wires that run to pin x-15 and x-16 from the engine harness and run them to the alternator plug? and then what rewire the water temp sensor? Compared to other things i have to do with this car that doesnt sound like a problem.
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About the PLUGS called X-15 and or X-16.................Those are plugs not pins. In the early series four manual they are called X-15 and X-16. Later versions of the series four manual call the same plugs FEM-01 and FEM-02. They are the same animal, just got different reference desiignators in the later manual.
Those PLUGS are located NOT on the ECU but are large yellow/orange plugs located above and to the right of the passengers feet. Above the ECU itself and to the right. Look hard. They are there.
They look like the attached jpgs. Count the number of pins in the plugs so you will know you have the right plugs.
By the way, FEM stands for Front harness to Emission harness plug. The EMISSION harness is the one that has the injector plugs, afm plugs etc on it and is attached to the engine and enters the cabin and attaches to the Front harness AND the ECU itself. So, calling a electrical plug FEM makes sense.
Those PLUGS are located NOT on the ECU but are large yellow/orange plugs located above and to the right of the passengers feet. Above the ECU itself and to the right. Look hard. They are there.
They look like the attached jpgs. Count the number of pins in the plugs so you will know you have the right plugs.
By the way, FEM stands for Front harness to Emission harness plug. The EMISSION harness is the one that has the injector plugs, afm plugs etc on it and is attached to the engine and enters the cabin and attaches to the Front harness AND the ECU itself. So, calling a electrical plug FEM makes sense.
Last edited by HAILERS; 12-15-06 at 11:13 PM.
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