Manolis_D

iTrader: (2)

I just bought a JDM TII motor + tranny from fc3s.org (great guys!), and now have to put it into my car.

I was wondering what parts i need to do this. Right now i've got the motor, tranny, and driveline (on the way).

Is it true that i have to get a MAF sensor for the engine? (it's a series 5 motor)


Will my N/A Fuel pump (1990 RX-7) work OK with the stock TII motor?

What do people do about the wiring situation?

How about a boost sensor?

Thanks!
Manolis

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

There has been about 25 threads on this subject. Since T2ing my Vert is on my to-do list, I've noticed.

I understand the NA fuel pump won't work. I was told the ECU talks to the T2 pump, whereas the NA set up doesn't other than simple fuel system pressurization.

I assume you got a complete T2 motor with intake, et al. If so, you should have gotten a wiring harness and T2 ECU (aka brain) with it. If you're retro-fitting a Series 4, you'll have to pull the dash. However, I recall that you avoid this hassle on Series 5's.

If your running a T2 Tranny to a NA rear Differential, you'll need the NA Automatic driveshaft. T2 driveshaft has a different bolt pattern I believe.

rx7_ragtop

The TII uses different voltage controlled by a relay in the front of the car. The NA uses constant voltage. The "hot" ticket is a FD fuel pump.

Quote:

I assume you got a complete T2 motor with intake, et al. If so, you should have gotten a wiring harness and T2 ECU (aka brain) with it. If you're retro-fitting a Series 4, you'll have to pull the dash. However, I recall that you avoid this hassle on Series 5's.

Per Chris Ott at Rotary Performance, on the Series IV cars, you need to add a couple of wires... but you don't HAVE to swap the entire dash harness.

On the series V it should just plug in... ASSUMING you are putting a series V engine, engine harness, and ECU into a series V chassis. Mixing series is a headache.

Quote:

If your running a T2 Tranny to a NA rear Differential, you'll need the NA Automatic driveshaft. T2 driveshaft has a different bolt pattern I believe.

It DOES have a different bolt pattern, BUT, an auto driveshaft doesn't do the trick, it's too short. Don't try to mix TII and NA drivetrain parts... either keep the NA transmission, (WEAK!!!) or swap the entire TII transmission, differential, and halfshafts. It's easier to swap the entire rear subframe assembly... see signature to see how I know this.

You need EVERYTHING to swap the drivetrain- transmission, clutch, pp, flywheel, clutch slave cylinder, starter, driveshaft, differential, halfshafts. You will also need to extend some wires that connect to sensors on the transmission (neutral switch, reverse light switch, etc.)

tesla042

Sure, mixing series is a headache...but so is the entire swap.. I'm thinking about dropping a S5 engine into my S4.. I do not care about the work involved, as I have plenty of time and energy, just not a lot of money.. And a little extra work for 16 extra HP is fine by me.. What's the word on the transmission issue with this, tho? Isn't there something you have to do about the counterweights? Or is it all good if you get the s5 transmission?

-Tesla

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the hassle to the sv motor and siv car is the connector between the ecu and the car its different. i wouldn't sweat the fuel pump too much the faster guys just bypass the resistor anyways, and for the pump itself you can get an fd, cosmo, or walbro, your choice is going to depend on how modded the cars goning to be later. the na pump will start the car but you dont want to boost it.
i guess you either need to swap out the the trans and diff or leave the stockers. if it was me i would leave the stock n/a drive line. the miata guys run those with 270rwhp and the 80's gtu cars ran them too. to me the t2 tranny is just extra weight unless you are making a lot of hp or drag race
if i was doing this swap i would leave it alone for now
1. it makes the swap easier
2. its cheaper

mike
ask me about the fc -> 20b swap