Ok i know the t2's are fast and have alot more hp...now the n/a has 145hp...whats ur guys top speed and mods.....can a n/a be moded to get up into the 200hp range?

 

I very curious - what made you decide on 200HP?

 

200 HP, of course!!!!

K&N intake
Fresh air headlight cover (rx7.com)
Air pump removal
Fan removal (convert to electric fan)
Header
presilencer
Apex-i single/dual muffler set up (can swap in canister muffler of choice)
remove AC belt if u got it.

any more than that, you might need a street ported engine, and T2 injectors, and an Apex SAFC

chris

 

If I was getting an NA, I would get the 89+ with 160 HP.
87-88 TII, 180 HP
89+ TII, 200 HP

But, like flubyux2 says, if you're going to put in tons of mods, then it really doesn't matter what car you get, its going to be fast!!!

 

200 HP should be easy to get out of an NA and should let you run with some of the seriously modded Hondas and Mustanks. More than that you'll need to do some porting to get better airflow. But you will also start breaking drive train pieces at about 250hp so..... you'll need to watch how much power your making to how hard your shocking the drive train. if you do all your hard accels from hyway speed you should be ok if your gonna drag like I probably will you'll risk things breaking.

 

I thought the 89-92 GTUs had 180HP and the GXL had around 160HP?

Both are NAs.

 

200 hp n/a? no prob. Im at about 230 bhp on a stock port engine. After I convert my MAF to a hot-wire type from a mustang, ill have at least 250 bhp on a stock port engine. And you can still see as much 80 or more from porting, depending on how big you go. 350 bhp n/a is very possible, but not necessarily very streetable.

 

Hey Mazdaspeed7.... in your sig, isn't the oil pressure a bit low for 6500 rpm's?

-Tesla

 

Mazdaspeed

Hey do you have the instructions on doing the hotwire mustang thing? if you know of the thread or cight could you post it for those of us who are in the dark about it?

Thanks

 

Someone I know is still working on tuning his, and once he gets it tuned right, he's going to tell me how to do it. It will be on the forum once we get everything working good on it.

About the oil pressure, I got that fixed now. That engine was a rebuilt with only 2K miles in that pic. The engine builder didnt build my engine right. Here is what the problem was. The o-ring was completely blown out on my engine. I had to pull the front cover off to fix it. It was such a pain.

 

200hp would definitely let you get in with some of the modified crowd

but not modified GT Mustangs or the 93+ Z28s and T/As... sorry...

stock ones yeah you could run with them; especially on the street... except the 98+ LS1s...

I'd just get a TurboII and not worry about it

 

Ive seen a couple pretty seriously moded T2's not even come close to hanging with any of the 98+ fbodies and a lightly modded 93+ will hang if not pull a 98+ fbody(stock). Mustangs are easy to keep with since thier engines just cant breathe. Then again Ford is redesigning thier triton engines again

200 hp will put you out in front of all but the serious speed freaks, well at least the ones that know what they are doing.

 

I would say GET THE T2! I now have a 88 T2, its my 11th RX-7 and second T2, I have also had 2 Verts, but the T2 is very easy to mod and get fast, just don't overdo it and blow an engine. While the F-bodies are fast, they handle like pigs and are big, heavy and bulky! Don't race unless it fits your car. (like in the twisties, or sometimes in trafffic you can make em look silly because our much smaller & lighter cars can get in & out of places very easily!) Good luck!

 

Racing in traffic is about the stupidest thing you could possibly do. Thats just asking to get in a wreck.

 

I agree... i hate it when people fly around through traffic and weave in and out n ****...

I'll move out of traffic to race but I won't go fast through a lot its just insane...

plus the twisty theory is bullshit on the street... when you drag race you go straight you don't go around corners... and the amount of times you can take a race with someone around a bunch of turns vs a straight line drag is like 1:100

if you get your *** beat in a straightline and then you claim "well I can at least beat him in the twisties!" thats just pathetic imo...
YOU LOST so TAKE IT...
"It doesn't matter whether you win by an inch or a mile"
LOL that last sentence was a joke

 

So what if you lose. Someone is ALWAYS going to have a faster car. Dont make excuses for losing, use losing as an excuse to make your car faster. The people who race in traffic are the people who give everyone else a bad name.

 

OK im should have said this eariler...If i go and get this 86 gxl for $300 and its good....what can a do to it....how much hp should be sufficent? i figured hey 200 is a nice round number a little more than a TII. Now should i even bother goiing through this??? if the car turns out as a clunker ill just sell it for triple to some moron and save for newer n/a or TII.

 

Current mod list:
cone filter
TB mod
ported intake manifold
RB dual outlet headers-->straight pipes all
the way to the mufflers
all emissions removed, including air pump
6 port sleeves removed
electric fan
UD pulleys, main and alternator
TII fuel pump and 550 cc secondaries
A/c and p/s removed
Crane Hi-6
NGK plug wires
timing advanced
some weight reduction...~2600 lbs
Redline ~8500 rpm

You can also port the engine, get a haltech so you can ditch the MAF sensor, and a few other things I havent done.

 

how?

how the hell would i pass emmissions????? how much $?


alot of this sounds hard to do. lets see...i like a/c but if mean more hp **** it...i dont know if ill go with out the p/s though i hate non p/s(my mom has it on her old volkswagon)


im gonna neeed a how too list and ill definitly take this stuff into consideration...how much hp do u think that is right there...id also like to add a aluminum t2 hood

 

hp - ~230 flywheel

If you have to pass emissions, you wont be able to do a lot of what I did. You cant even pass emissions most places with a header. What you can do is get a full exhaust and keep your stock one for testing days.

I havent seen a how-to on porting the intake manifold. If youre handy with a grinder it shouldnt be a problem. But if youre not, you would be better off letting someone who is do it. Its not really hard, and you can see where you should port when you have the manifold off and apart.

A good mod for the 86-88 n/a's is to put the 89-91 intake manifold on. I have a spare one that I could port and send to you if you want. PM me if youre interested.

The a/c is more for weight reduction than hp increase. The a/c condenser and everything else weighs about 50 lbs. I removed the p/s because my pump got water in it and blew up.

 

i just junked a intake from a junk engine....doh....i dont know what year it was...i many still be able to get it how can i tell what year it is...plus what part are we talking about the intake stars witth the carb..then the injector(has mazda 13b injected stamped on the top) then the 4 tubes that go down into that aluminum block that bolts up to the engine
mazdaspeed7 you got aol or aim?

 

btw how can i found out how much hp the car runs after the mods??? find a dyno?

 

I have aim af24179

The intake manifold - 3 parts between the engine and the TB

 

Mazdaspeed; whats it take to swap a VDI (89-92) intake manifold onto an 86-88??

and,how many HP would that net you at the flywheel? cuz i might be interested in that swap, assuming i can find one, and dont have to get TOO serious aobut it.

chris

 

sorry buddy but i'd like to see you try and out handle a 93+z28.we are talkin 275+hp and 89g's and high 13's 1/4...also i have a question, what would be better to buy a 95 z28 or a FD or even a TII...95 z28 cost about 11grand and is as fast as an FD but without the problems...this mite sound stupid im sorry