1987 N/a FC with 180k on it. Every time the a/c is on, the car refuses to idle and wants to shut off. It shut down last time during highway traffic but it starts right up. What's going on? Also there is another problem, the volt meter reads around 12.0-13.0 volts witht he engine on or off (alternator taking a dump?).

 

oohhh...i guess i really am stalking now

btw....use spellcheck next time....

Oh regarding the problem with your car reread your first sentence....

 

At least there's one use for your post, thanks for the bump.

 

Your bac valve is bad. If the alternator is bad all your idiot lights will come on. Could be few things but its a place to start.

 

I believe the fuse is gone for the idiot lights since most of the idiot lights are nonfunctional. Probably a loose circuit? Don't know but i'll check the bac valve and alternator.

Thanks!

 

Check your voltage using a DMM. Don't trust the gauge and go replacing stuff. Check the voltage with various loads on and off.

+1 On the BAC system being the cause for the stalling as it's supposed to compensate with higher idle according to engine electrical loads.

Also, you really want those idiot lights to turn on. Check fuses, etc. if they all don't turn on with ign. on and engine off. Note that the seat belt light should go off after a while and the parking light also if you don't have the parking brake on.

 

nothing comes on properly except for the open hatch light. The seat belt light comes on every now and then but the seatbelt is already fastened when it does that. How do i go about on checking teh BAC?

 

Idle is "iffy" on a high mileage motor.
If the initial set is too low, the BAC can't make up the difference.
I'd start by doing the initial set procedure & set the base idle to 8-850.

 

FSM in my sig. Chapter 4, shows how to check resistance of BAC valve and how unplugging should lower RPM's when the engine's warm. Some guys here have cleaned the valve and had good results - don't remember where I read it.