2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

[SIZE=2]Ok, I've been reading a lot of thread's lets just summarise this all up. Why not every one with a 86-92 FC just name the parts that they know of and the price with how much HP it gives you. For 1) I wanna know what horses I can get outta the parts. 2) Gives everyone a list of parts you can get for the car. Oh and what site it came off.

13bpower

I really don't think anyone dyno's after each mod, or with just one mod. And every car reacts a little bit different depending on the engines health and mods already installed. It's not as simple as a Z32 where EVERYTHING is staged with the power you will be at after each stage is common knowlege.

If you give us a budget and what you want out of your car it could be much easier to help you out.

I'll whip up a quick list for you though

casio

for an n/a? break the engine open; port it; get a good exhaust system of your choice, or custom; maybe a custom intake; standalone; aftermarket intake manifold (most likely custom) or ITB (individual throttle body setup).
look (search for) at Kahren's car for example. someone else did another trick n/a setup, but i've drawn a blank.
most n/a (and even turbo) dont dyno after adding a part. its hard enough to find people's dynos, and for n/as? forget it. there's just not many. you get a dyno and a list of mods, not horsepower/mod, thats rediculous.
another thing to note that n/as need to be ported to hit good numbers (yes, kahren's car is nice, but lets face it, porting is the way to get nice numbers). since porting techniques are different from one port-ist (engine builder) to another, intake "lift" and duration will be different which then affects all other mods. so then, what exhaust may work best on this engine with this port, may not benefit this other engine with whatever port.
if you're looking for power on stock ports and stock fuel injection... uhm, nitrous?

oh, and whats "Commoments" ??

13bpower

all are ESTIMATES at the flywheel

1. Catback $250-900 +10-15 hp
2. intake $40-200 +5-10 hp
3a.High flow cat $200-250 +5-10 hp
3b. Racepipe $100-200 +15-20 hp
3c. Headers & presilecer $300 +20-25 hp
4. AFC and dynotune $300-500 +10-25 hp
5. 5/6 port inserts $50 +2-5 hp

These HP numbers will all varie greatly depending on what mods your car already has.

146 HP stock to 180-200 HP is what you could reasonably expect with the above mods on stock ports for an s4. Add 15 HP on to thoses #'s for an s5.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

ya', and a decent streetport would probably net you another 15hp or so top end.

(streetporting is like installing a more agressive cam for a piston motor)

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Already have the street port job done and a racing transmission with a lighten flywheel. I plenty of funds to get by with a nice sleeper car. ITB aye? hmm well...

Bukwild

a 15 second car is not a sleeper

gerbraldy

^
aint that the truth

Icemark

I think those HP numbers are rather wishfull... I think real world, expect about 5 hp less than everything listed.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, it's more sleeping...

The other thing to consider with mods, is that some compliment each other well... (i.e. a street port will yeild much better power with an opened up exhaust system)

If you are serious about modding your N/A, get a stand alone computer. The amount of power you can eek out of mods is dramatically higher when you can actually TUNE the car properly (or have it tuned as the case may be).

....then maybe you can get in the 14s...

totallimmortal

not maybe you should be able to i ran a 15.2 with no cats, rb catback and a cone filter. Since then i've ported the TB and done the tb mod, added a posi and rims and tires, removed the ac and airpump, and a lightwieght flywheel is on the way. I've beaten 14 second cars in my NA and it is possibleto run 13s on stock ports with a standalone. someone did it and considereing my times with my mods i think it's very possible. But first make sure you have good compression and do a full tune up (spark plugs, oil change, change gear oild in tranny and rear, and fuel filter) The most noticable gain will be from exhaust. An intake that can breath cold air will help too. not alot of money has to be spent although RB exhaust is worth it to me cause it soulds so damn good. after all the bolt ons its gonna be hard to make a really fast NA that is streetable, that is of course unless you like nitrous

BDoty311

No ****.

SDrotary-FC

there are some 13 sec n/a's out there

BDoty311

How many? 2-3?

And how many are streetable?

2slow4stock

iTrader: (18)

Oh and forgot I have 150 shot... so not really in the 15's

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

How much does a True Duals add?

-Andrew

powrdby13B

true duals doesn't add much
and with stock internals unless you have good apex seals a 150 shot will end your motor in a rather quick fashion....
After intake and exhaust and all that ****, you really gotta concentrate on the amount of fuel you're getting. Bigger injectors and a pump should be up on your list.
Remember thow, rotaries are known for high BOOST and being SLOW off the line. HANDLING, not SPEED.

flamin-roids

Well don't forget a TII transmission with a 4.30 rear end would help quite a bit. Also as far as exhaust goes I'd say a RB header with a straight pipe and single cat back would be the best. I'm going to try and break 13's here in Utah (damn fast for a N/A anything here) in a daily driven N/A.

Kenteth

^goodluck on that, I'd like to hear how it goes

BDoty311

Rotaries are not known for high boost IMO You will be hard pressed to find anyone running more than 15-16psi on premium.

And you will NEVER need to upgrade the fuel system on a streetported n/a motor! A tune, yes, but that is to LEAN out the motor.

igneouss

Daily driver n/a mods:
1) Intake filter (like HKS or whatever). Easiest bolt on.
2) Exhaust. Easiest is cat back. More gains from a header, highflow or no cat. Probably the biggest gain of any mod. Shopping tip: the difference in gain between different products is not that significant compared to the gain from adding just about any free(er) flowing cat back. In otherwords, worry about getting a good deal on a decent product, don't simply buy the one that claims the biggest gain.
3) S-AFC II and a wideband O2 sensor. Do this last so you only have to tune it once.

Logic: mods in general are all about putting more air through the engine so that more fuel can be consumed. It all assumes that plugs/wires/lubricants/TPS/injectors are all in proper tune. For example, good racing gear oil in the tranny and rear end is probably worth a few rear wheel hp (and is probably about the least expensive few hp you can get).

Once you have done the intake and exhaust you have improved the air flow in the most cost effective manner. The key at this point is to tune the car properly. This is where the S-AFC II and WB O2 sensor come in. The stock computer will not give you the best tuning. In fact, the stock computer really sucks. This set of mods has the virtue of being largely bolt on and doable by the owner.

HP gains from mods are not generally additive. However, some mods do compliment each other. What I outlined above is a basic scenario of complimentary mods that can work in the real world of daily drivers. If you simply want to drag race just go with NOX. The rest of the mods are not that important unless you are racing another NOX n/a RX-7.

In the real world we want mods that we can do at home. That will not lower engine life significantly. That will not lower routine mpg too much or require special fuels. Obviously there are lots of other possibilities. What I outlined might add 30 hp at the rear wheels. Cost if you buy used parts and do your own work, saving buck when possible might bring you down into the $30/HP range. Double that number if you buy all new parts at retail. Add another $30/hp if you port the engine. In other words you can spend between $1000 and $3000 for a 30 to 40 RWHP gain. Of course for $4000 you can get a turbo car that has 200 rwhp in stock form

Personally, I like my n/a. I don't need 400 RWHP to enjoy driving it. I just like knowing that it's reasonably fast and that I made it better than stock and did it for around $30/hp. I am hoping to visit a dyno with something similar to what I described some time this spring. If/when that happens I'll post the results.

this7stofast

screw all of the time and money with the lil mod's! i mean really. all of this time and money for just a few more hp? it's ridicules!i say screw em all! I'm going three rotor!!

fc3salb

Amen!!

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

could have a faster 2 rotor for what you'd pay to do a 3 rotor.

casio

not to mention half the headaches and done in half the time. and for most people, a 3 rotor is a pipe dream. probably be cheaper to move to japan or australia.