n/a 88 sutters after 3800 rpm
03-13-07, 09:47 PM
#26
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the two secondary injectors are clogged, now someone at this mechanic shop down the road said to mix a quart of home heating oil in the gas tank and it should unclogg them, has anyone ever heard of this? sounds ogus but you never know
03-14-07, 12:19 PM
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i think thats what im gonna do, where are the other two? n the direct opposite side? i thought i had found them before but i was wrong, it was only the secondary's i found
03-14-07, 12:30 PM
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another thing, when i first got the car the boost sensor hose was not connected o the motor, but i connected it fist day, the thing is there is no T on the vaccum line leading
from the sensor to the vaccum switch, theres alot of stuff out of the engine ay such as the ac unit and the hoses that heat the inside of the car, witch makes me wonder why the cars actual temperature doesnt go up, the guage only will get up about a quarter inch does that mean i need a new thermostat?
from the sensor to the vaccum switch, theres alot of stuff out of the engine ay such as the ac unit and the hoses that heat the inside of the car, witch makes me wonder why the cars actual temperature doesnt go up, the guage only will get up about a quarter inch does that mean i need a new thermostat?
03-14-07, 03:23 PM
#30
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i have every problem you just mentioned , my car does the same sluggish acceleration from 3800 and up , i got my secondaries tested and they were 78cc/30seconds at 40 psi the guy said they were fine , so im guessing that the hesitation is not from the injectors , also my car had a older thermostat and i replaced it , now it only goes up about a quarter too
03-15-07, 12:43 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by gotgrip666
i think thats what im gonna do, where are the other two? n the direct opposite side?
another thing, when i first got the car the boost sensor hose was not connected o the motor, but i connected it fist day, the thing is there is no T on the vaccum line leading from the sensor to the vaccum switch
theres alot of stuff out of the engine ay such as the ac unit and the hoses that heat the inside of the car, witch makes me wonder why the cars actual temperature doesnt go up, the guage only will get up about a quarter inch does that mean i need a new thermostat?
Originally Posted by fredster102
i got my secondaries tested and they were 78cc/30seconds at 40 psi the guy said they were fine...
talked to a rx7 specialist today he said it could be the injector resistor under the airbox?
03-15-07, 11:46 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
Go back and read post #25, then do what I said! Questions like this will start to bug people soon.
The vacuum switch next to the MAP sensor is only fitted to autos. It needs to be teed into the MAP line so the torque converter lock-up works properly. Is yours an auto? Or has it been converted to manual?
That's normal operating temp on an S4 gauge. It's fine.
One of you has your number and/or units mixed up, or they were tested by pulsing them at a low duty cycle. Testing them at 40psi would also give about 5% more flow than the 36psi the injectors are factory-rated at.
Your 88 doesn't have one.
The vacuum switch next to the MAP sensor is only fitted to autos. It needs to be teed into the MAP line so the torque converter lock-up works properly. Is yours an auto? Or has it been converted to manual?
That's normal operating temp on an S4 gauge. It's fine.
One of you has your number and/or units mixed up, or they were tested by pulsing them at a low duty cycle. Testing them at 40psi would also give about 5% more flow than the 36psi the injectors are factory-rated at.
Your 88 doesn't have one.
03-15-07, 01:58 PM
#35
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boost ssensor for my manual should just go straight to the engine with no t fitting for any other vaccum lines?
One of you has your number and/or units mixed up, or they were tested by pulsing them at a low duty cycle. Testing them at 40psi would also give about 5% more flow than the 36psi the injectors are factory-rated at.
also you can try cleaning you TPS , i heard it can be done with WD40?
im not sure about this though a friend of mine told me this , is it ture?
03-15-07, 05:41 PM
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i just noticed today when i brought it out for a spin that it occasionally gets a real bad fuel cut, like if im in first and going real slow if i go to give it gas real fast it prety much sounds and feels like the car completly stalls out for a split second then comes right back on, im just going to buy two new secondary injectors and a new inline fuel filter, i get the injectors for 65 a peice so thats not gonna be that bad
03-15-07, 08:31 PM
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i was looking on mazdatrix today at the bypass valves and stuff, and i noticed one of the wires in the pictures is on that is not connected to what ever its suposed to be connected to on the car its the black wire with the clip on it
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i162/Andre614/rx.jpg
can you tell me where it clips into and if this is what could be causeing my problems
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i162/Andre614/rx.jpg
can you tell me where it clips into and if this is what could be causeing my problems
03-16-07, 06:25 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
You guys need to think a little harder about the symptoms described rather than just repeat the same old "it must be grounds" blah, blah. This is not a hesitation at 3800rpm, he clearly said he "cant push it past 3800 rpm without it sputtering hard".
It sounds very much like one of the secondary injector is firing intermittently or not at all. It could be a dirty, loose or disconnected electrical connector on one of the secondaries, or a failed injector. Take the connectors off both secondary injectors (the ones visable on the UIM) and see if they're cracked or broken, make sure both pins are secure in the connector and thoroughly clean them with degreaser or contact cleaner. Clean the injectors' pins too.
If the connectors look okay, measure the impedance across the terminals (should be 12-13ohm). If that's okay, put 12V across the pins of each injector and listen for them to click open. If one of them fails these tests it'll need replacing.
If they're good electrically, replace the connectors, go for a drive and see if the problem's still there.
It sounds very much like one of the secondary injector is firing intermittently or not at all. It could be a dirty, loose or disconnected electrical connector on one of the secondaries, or a failed injector. Take the connectors off both secondary injectors (the ones visable on the UIM) and see if they're cracked or broken, make sure both pins are secure in the connector and thoroughly clean them with degreaser or contact cleaner. Clean the injectors' pins too.
If the connectors look okay, measure the impedance across the terminals (should be 12-13ohm). If that's okay, put 12V across the pins of each injector and listen for them to click open. If one of them fails these tests it'll need replacing.
If they're good electrically, replace the connectors, go for a drive and see if the problem's still there.
I had the same damn problem,major loss of power at 3800 bucking all kinds of ****.
I ground the pressure sensor wire and what do you know back to complete perfection so before you say its not the grounds,check your grounds!
03-16-07, 06:53 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by loudazzrx7
You need to chill...
03-17-07, 10:21 AM
#45
i think its a maf or airpump thing i have same problem only but happened when i put a cone filter on the car....has something to do w/ maf, pressure sensor and my grounds as well ....
03-17-07, 07:08 PM
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i cheked the secondary injectors there fine i suspectsomthing with the fuel pump or filter or the fuel line, after i put the injectors back i tried stating it ait revs but when i give it gas it dies and every time i try to start it i smell gas and theres some fluid leaking i think its oil
03-17-07, 07:58 PM
#49
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Okay, got that one cleared up , took the cone filter off and put the stock air box back on , nothing changed, but i think i fixed the problem ... somewhat , theres a ground wire behind the intake i disconnected it and cleaned it and put it back i also wiggled around the injectors , went for a drive , went up past 4k like nothing , 2 hours earlier it wouldnt go past 4000 , so i think forsure our problem is the grounding and injectors