About how much hp should my S4 be making after these mods?
1. Emissions removal.
2. Straight pipe from stock manifold to stock muffler.
3. Street porting on intake and exhaust ports.
4. Drop in K&N filter.
I guess flywheel estimate would be best. Suposively if you use all royal purple fluids for the whole drive train. You gain some more hp to the wheels. The motor will be rebuilt btw.

 

you ll be lucky if you even break 160 with that


You can add some kind of fuel controllers and get a few more hp.

 

supercharge it

 

130 rwhp

 

All depends on the size of the port and how well its put together, unfortanetly it'll probably be a lot less then you want honestly. I would definitely consider buying a header and a good exhaust for the street port which will give you a lot better power. I would definitely not want to run stock headers on a streetport.

 

Supercharging will come. This is daily driver though. So I guess I should ask how much of an increase over stock?

 

I made a whopping 121hp with my old N/A that just had a full exhaust and emissions removed.. it also had low compression on the rear.

 

Well the reason behind the stock manifold and mufflers is noise reduction. If I got headers would that not increase the noise extremely.

 

i have around 130+hp and 120+tq with my stock engine and the only things that were added was a bonez cat/precat delete, and a k&n cone filter. didnt replace the catback either...i can scan my dyno sometime and show it to you but that was made on an s4 na

 

If you get the racing beat system its not that loud and you can buy presilencers with it to even keep the noise farther down.

 

well where can i be at horsepower wise with a S5 N/A motor with PaceSetter Headers, DIY Intake(just a cone), all emissions removed, advanced timing, and clutch fan removed(e-fan). and im on stock porting, and fuel system. i was thinking 170ish

 

maybe 150 (rwhp)?

 

header will only give a slight gain if the rest of the exhaust remains stock, intake doesn't do much, maybe 5whp, emissions removal doesn't do much, the timing will provide a gain, and the clutch fan doesn't do much. This is from information I've gathered browsing the forums for five years.

A power robber with NA cars (and most stock cars) is the stock fuel and timing maps. If you can get an aftermarket EMS (RTEK) and tune it you will get a considerable gain in HP, drivability and even gas mileage. This is what the SCCA guys do that put down 170whp+ on stock ports.

You'd be losing money if you have FI plans in the future though. Unless you buy a TII ECU and sensors, and get an RTEK 2.0 but that would be close to the price of a real standalone with much more tuning capability and AFM removal.

I say, put a filter on the intake with a 3"+ duct running from above the brake duct (remove the washer fluid ****), put a cheap custom single exhaust with a long presilencer, make sure your 6PI and VDI systems are working, do a water/seafoam and fuel system flush, tune up and drive the crap out of it. Twisties are your friend.

 

I would agree if the block was still stock, however with ported intake/exhaust (depending upon sizes) a header/intake become fairly more important. The stock exhaust should still flow well enough without cats to make a header beneficial to a point with some average street porting. One of the things I see a lot of people do is throw a header/intake/full exhaust on a stock block which usually ends up hurting. That's where the original manifold/intake really shines. Once you get out of this range though, the other's edge ahead.