My TurboVert swap update...
Well folks, looks like congratulations were NOT in order.
She was only running on one rotor
, and I verified that in two ways. First, her rear plugs were firing but there was no combustion in the chamber - they were clean as a whistle. Second, I unplugged the rear rotor's spark plugs while she was idling. NO difference. F**K. So I checked the timing - no problem there. So I swap out the ECUs on a whim... my 'vert ECU has some kind of a problem where it does not idle steadily (sort of wobbles up and down VrrrOOOOmOOOOmmmmOOOmmmmOOOmm) but it did fire both rotors. Turn the key... NIGHT AND DAY folks. I KNOW that second rotor started 'cause i yanked both rear rotor plugs and the engine almost died. F**K. So, I have two bad ECUs... no good one. Looks like I'm not gonna make any money off my old stock stuff...
I've got to get a Haltech, and SOON. Anybody know a GOOD installer/tuner in the SE area who can come to my place and set it up for a reasonable fee?
She was only running on one rotor
, and I verified that in two ways. First, her rear plugs were firing but there was no combustion in the chamber - they were clean as a whistle. Second, I unplugged the rear rotor's spark plugs while she was idling. NO difference. F**K. So I checked the timing - no problem there. So I swap out the ECUs on a whim... my 'vert ECU has some kind of a problem where it does not idle steadily (sort of wobbles up and down VrrrOOOOmOOOOmmmmOOOmmmmOOOmm) but it did fire both rotors. Turn the key... NIGHT AND DAY folks. I KNOW that second rotor started 'cause i yanked both rear rotor plugs and the engine almost died. F**K. So, I have two bad ECUs... no good one. Looks like I'm not gonna make any money off my old stock stuff... I've got to get a Haltech, and SOON. Anybody know a GOOD installer/tuner in the SE area who can come to my place and set it up for a reasonable fee?
No the rotor was apparently lost from the very beginning. I had spark on all four plugs so I assumed that if the engine started, both rotors were working. Apparently she's got crazy good compression 'cause she started and ran for 50 miles on a single rotor!!!!! Go Kevin. I just hope dragging that rear rotor hasn't hurt it...
Also, my old NA motor was so far wasted that it idled like crap (its ECU was also bad, I found out since my new engine inherited the same exact problems once I swapped the ECUs... but at least both rotors were working on that one). So I'm not running EITHER ECU in the meantime until I can get a solid engine management system in place.
PM me for sale of my brand spanking new EM harness and SAFC-II, plus related stock sensors.
(
Also, my old NA motor was so far wasted that it idled like crap (its ECU was also bad, I found out since my new engine inherited the same exact problems once I swapped the ECUs... but at least both rotors were working on that one). So I'm not running EITHER ECU in the meantime until I can get a solid engine management system in place.
PM me for sale of my brand spanking new EM harness and SAFC-II, plus related stock sensors.
(
BOOSTED Vert
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,307
Likes: 0
From: Miami
I could have never have guessed that you were only running on one rotor.. especialy since you drove it all that and you only noticed a somewhat sluggish responce... check your oil though, so much fuel was being dumped that gas might've passed thought the oil seals..
Lol... forum lagging? Well I'm pretty sure most of the fuel got slammed into the exhaust since the chamber wasn't very wet at all.. in fact, now that I think about it, the plugs were not hardly wet at all, and what they were wet with was oily, not like gas. I think it was the assembly lube. So perhaps there was no fuel being injected into that rotor at all. Of course, when I switched out the ECUs there was another burst of smoke which I assume was the remaining lube being burned out of that rotor. I'm sick of this stock stuff being problematic. I'm going to use a real EMS... screw fake water temp sensors, screw damn vaccuum racks, screw damn AFMs, screw pressure sensors that don't work right anyway, screw fuel cut, and mostly, screw the goddam TPS problem. I just hope I can find somebody who knows precisely what the hell they are doing and can do a damn good job for ~$2k-2.5k including the Haltech setup. I can do the install, no problems. I just don't want to tune her. I'm too inexperienced to do that right.
BOOSTED Vert
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,307
Likes: 0
From: Miami
there are a couple people here that can send you a base map which should let you run your car with plenty of fuel so you dont have to worry about damaging your motor... remember the maps arent only for fuel, its for timing also.. try to find someone with a nice map and since you are running stock turbo and setup it shouldnt be hard at all to find you a great map that you could up load and run the car with no problem, like it was stock..
Ok guys a long overdue update.
I bought a Haltech E6X... it came in yesterday and I will begin a careful (which means slow) install of it today, if I get the additional parts in that I ordered last week.... *ahem, UPS folks, hurry up*. So I'm removing my stock harness... kicking myself for running the Greddy gauge wires THROUGH the brand new boot 'cause now I feel obligated to discount the brand new harness which I am *selling* ... I discounted it $150 for that, brand spanking new, $150 off just 'cause I put a small, resealable hole in the boot. Just for you guys.
For those who will inevitably ask: I got my Haltech from Kickyride who is local to me. They are good people, despite promising me a unit by Friday of last week and having it show up on Monday so I lost the weekend to work on my car... but half of that was Haltech Australia's fault for not drop shipping it to my house and instead sending it with the later order going to his shop. I paid about the same as ordering from K2RD except I paid local sales tax. He is helping to offset the extra finances through customer service and providing those small or hard to find parts that come in very handy.
Anyway, the Haltech is ready to go in so I bought a ton of extra WeatherPac connectors for the other wires in the area, and split loom tubing etc. to properly protect the wiring from heat and my fanatical (lowered) pressure washing of the engine bay which will happen weekly if I get my way.
So the other cool thing is I got the K2RD blockoff plates. Those things are gorgeous... well worth the money. And I'm glad to be rid of the damn MOP, ACV, air pump, and AFM. Premixing has never bothered me. Injecting dirty oil with a pump that might break, through lines that might clog, does.
Okay here's the interesting part, well two interesting parts.
1. I plan to break in the engine using a modestly tweaked base map. This is not usually recommended but its my only option. Since I'm already being gentle with the engine, using a tweaked base map with my in-car wideband to tune should be ok. Any help from those with experience is requested - please!
2. I plan to pass emissons with this setup. I have a cat, I am aware of the closed-loop cyclic requirements of a catalytic converter and I plan to tune the Haltech to provide those. I do however plan to run a race mid-pipe whenever possible, naturally.
My immediate-term goal for passing emissions is to add an electric air pump temporarily, pipe it to the cat, tune the haltech for whatever reduces emissions at the 50/15 and 25/25 load points, and use alternative fueling (part alcohol or something) if necessary. Financial support of the testing mechanic is also an option, but if I can legitimately make her pass with a haltech and a cat, I would like to. The ACV does so little I hear anyways, what's the point in keeping it for a once-a-year ordeal?
Anyway, that's the plan. I'm gonna catch some shut-eye, then hit the ground running.
Peace.
I bought a Haltech E6X... it came in yesterday and I will begin a careful (which means slow) install of it today, if I get the additional parts in that I ordered last week.... *ahem, UPS folks, hurry up*. So I'm removing my stock harness... kicking myself for running the Greddy gauge wires THROUGH the brand new boot 'cause now I feel obligated to discount the brand new harness which I am *selling* ... I discounted it $150 for that, brand spanking new, $150 off just 'cause I put a small, resealable hole in the boot. Just for you guys.
For those who will inevitably ask: I got my Haltech from Kickyride who is local to me. They are good people, despite promising me a unit by Friday of last week and having it show up on Monday so I lost the weekend to work on my car... but half of that was Haltech Australia's fault for not drop shipping it to my house and instead sending it with the later order going to his shop. I paid about the same as ordering from K2RD except I paid local sales tax. He is helping to offset the extra finances through customer service and providing those small or hard to find parts that come in very handy.
Anyway, the Haltech is ready to go in so I bought a ton of extra WeatherPac connectors for the other wires in the area, and split loom tubing etc. to properly protect the wiring from heat and my fanatical (lowered) pressure washing of the engine bay which will happen weekly if I get my way.

So the other cool thing is I got the K2RD blockoff plates. Those things are gorgeous... well worth the money. And I'm glad to be rid of the damn MOP, ACV, air pump, and AFM. Premixing has never bothered me. Injecting dirty oil with a pump that might break, through lines that might clog, does.
Okay here's the interesting part, well two interesting parts.
1. I plan to break in the engine using a modestly tweaked base map. This is not usually recommended but its my only option. Since I'm already being gentle with the engine, using a tweaked base map with my in-car wideband to tune should be ok. Any help from those with experience is requested - please!
2. I plan to pass emissons with this setup. I have a cat, I am aware of the closed-loop cyclic requirements of a catalytic converter and I plan to tune the Haltech to provide those. I do however plan to run a race mid-pipe whenever possible, naturally.
My immediate-term goal for passing emissions is to add an electric air pump temporarily, pipe it to the cat, tune the haltech for whatever reduces emissions at the 50/15 and 25/25 load points, and use alternative fueling (part alcohol or something) if necessary. Financial support of the testing mechanic is also an option, but if I can legitimately make her pass with a haltech and a cat, I would like to. The ACV does so little I hear anyways, what's the point in keeping it for a once-a-year ordeal? Anyway, that's the plan. I'm gonna catch some shut-eye, then hit the ground running.
Peace.
BOOSTED Vert
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,307
Likes: 0
From: Miami
Originally posted by DigitalSynthesis
Ok guys a long overdue update.
I bought a Haltech E6X... it came in yesterday and I will begin a careful (which means slow) install of it today, if I get the additional parts in that I ordered last week.... *ahem, UPS folks, hurry up*. So I'm removing my stock harness... kicking myself for running the Greddy gauge wires THROUGH the brand new boot 'cause now I feel obligated to discount the brand new harness which I am *selling* ... I discounted it $150 for that, brand spanking new, $150 off just 'cause I put a small, resealable hole in the boot. Just for you guys.
For those who will inevitably ask: I got my Haltech from Kickyride who is local to me. They are good people, despite promising me a unit by Friday of last week and having it show up on Monday so I lost the weekend to work on my car... but half of that was Haltech Australia's fault for not drop shipping it to my house and instead sending it with the later order going to his shop. I paid about the same as ordering from K2RD except I paid local sales tax. He is helping to offset the extra finances through customer service and providing those small or hard to find parts that come in very handy.
Anyway, the Haltech is ready to go in so I bought a ton of extra WeatherPac connectors for the other wires in the area, and split loom tubing etc. to properly protect the wiring from heat and my fanatical (lowered) pressure washing of the engine bay which will happen weekly if I get my way.
So the other cool thing is I got the K2RD blockoff plates. Those things are gorgeous... well worth the money. And I'm glad to be rid of the damn MOP, ACV, air pump, and AFM. Premixing has never bothered me. Injecting dirty oil with a pump that might break, through lines that might clog, does.
Okay here's the interesting part, well two interesting parts.
1. I plan to break in the engine using a modestly tweaked base map. This is not usually recommended but its my only option. Since I'm already being gentle with the engine, using a tweaked base map with my in-car wideband to tune should be ok. Any help from those with experience is requested - please!
2. I plan to pass emissons with this setup. I have a cat, I am aware of the closed-loop cyclic requirements of a catalytic converter and I plan to tune the Haltech to provide those. I do however plan to run a race mid-pipe whenever possible, naturally.
My immediate-term goal for passing emissions is to add an electric air pump temporarily, pipe it to the cat, tune the haltech for whatever reduces emissions at the 50/15 and 25/25 load points, and use alternative fueling (part alcohol or something) if necessary. Financial support of the testing mechanic is also an option, but if I can legitimately make her pass with a haltech and a cat, I would like to. The ACV does so little I hear anyways, what's the point in keeping it for a once-a-year ordeal?
Anyway, that's the plan. I'm gonna catch some shut-eye, then hit the ground running.
Peace.
Ok guys a long overdue update.
I bought a Haltech E6X... it came in yesterday and I will begin a careful (which means slow) install of it today, if I get the additional parts in that I ordered last week.... *ahem, UPS folks, hurry up*. So I'm removing my stock harness... kicking myself for running the Greddy gauge wires THROUGH the brand new boot 'cause now I feel obligated to discount the brand new harness which I am *selling* ... I discounted it $150 for that, brand spanking new, $150 off just 'cause I put a small, resealable hole in the boot. Just for you guys.
For those who will inevitably ask: I got my Haltech from Kickyride who is local to me. They are good people, despite promising me a unit by Friday of last week and having it show up on Monday so I lost the weekend to work on my car... but half of that was Haltech Australia's fault for not drop shipping it to my house and instead sending it with the later order going to his shop. I paid about the same as ordering from K2RD except I paid local sales tax. He is helping to offset the extra finances through customer service and providing those small or hard to find parts that come in very handy.
Anyway, the Haltech is ready to go in so I bought a ton of extra WeatherPac connectors for the other wires in the area, and split loom tubing etc. to properly protect the wiring from heat and my fanatical (lowered) pressure washing of the engine bay which will happen weekly if I get my way.

So the other cool thing is I got the K2RD blockoff plates. Those things are gorgeous... well worth the money. And I'm glad to be rid of the damn MOP, ACV, air pump, and AFM. Premixing has never bothered me. Injecting dirty oil with a pump that might break, through lines that might clog, does.
Okay here's the interesting part, well two interesting parts.
1. I plan to break in the engine using a modestly tweaked base map. This is not usually recommended but its my only option. Since I'm already being gentle with the engine, using a tweaked base map with my in-car wideband to tune should be ok. Any help from those with experience is requested - please!
2. I plan to pass emissons with this setup. I have a cat, I am aware of the closed-loop cyclic requirements of a catalytic converter and I plan to tune the Haltech to provide those. I do however plan to run a race mid-pipe whenever possible, naturally.
My immediate-term goal for passing emissions is to add an electric air pump temporarily, pipe it to the cat, tune the haltech for whatever reduces emissions at the 50/15 and 25/25 load points, and use alternative fueling (part alcohol or something) if necessary. Financial support of the testing mechanic is also an option, but if I can legitimately make her pass with a haltech and a cat, I would like to. The ACV does so little I hear anyways, what's the point in keeping it for a once-a-year ordeal? Anyway, that's the plan. I'm gonna catch some shut-eye, then hit the ground running.
Peace.
I haven't tuned anything before. I am going to have the vehicle professionally tuned before I get into serious boost on her but I am pretty sure that with the right wisdom and a solid base map I can get her to a stable break-in point without much difficulty.
Update: ReTed has saved my a$$. He gave me some good tips to tune for using a commonly available base map. I will in turn share those to people as they have need.
Go ReTed :: officially on my sponsor list for his free advice.
Go ReTed :: officially on my sponsor list for his free advice.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
ENjoy your first install. I just completed mine earlier this month. IT wasn't that bad in hindsight, but it is definitely a learning experience. I will say that "getting a detuned base map for breakin" is not what you think it is. OUT of all the maps I've tried for setups similar to mine, I have yet to get one close enough that allows me to actually drive the car on the road. IN fact, it's so far off that even with adjustments here and there, I can't tell if I'm making matters better or worse.
Stock stuff might have it's glitches after 15 years of age and heat, but it's a far cry from having thousands of dollars and tens of hours invested into a new high power setup and not being able to drive the car at all until you get tuned. And it seems finding a tuner, an acceptable dyno, and being sure you, your car, your tuner, your dyno, and the date all match up...is easier said than done. (See the tuning thread in SE forum).
Let me know who you get to do your tuning...I may give them a yell.
Stock stuff might have it's glitches after 15 years of age and heat, but it's a far cry from having thousands of dollars and tens of hours invested into a new high power setup and not being able to drive the car at all until you get tuned. And it seems finding a tuner, an acceptable dyno, and being sure you, your car, your tuner, your dyno, and the date all match up...is easier said than done. (See the tuning thread in SE forum).
Let me know who you get to do your tuning...I may give them a yell.
UPDATE: The haltech is in. The car starts, idles, and drives gently just fine. Going to take her out on the street for better tuning. I've kept a 'blog on xanga, you can visit it at http://www.xanga.com/DigitalSynthesis if you want. It details my install and the woes and successes I went through and is updated more frequently than here. I also updated my website (http://www.argentproductions.com/arbeit/rx7.php) to show installation pictures.
As for tuning, I'm working through kickyride to get Ed Senf (a highly respected Atlanta-area tuner). I think I'm gonna tune at dynolab. And since I'm still in break-in for the engine (haven't gotten to drive much due to rain and my work schedule colliding) I'm not itching to boost yet (okay I am but I can't, so that balances it out).
I still need to put the hood on, and get the top up so I can drive her in the rain. right now its fair-weather only.
As for tuning, I'm working through kickyride to get Ed Senf (a highly respected Atlanta-area tuner). I think I'm gonna tune at dynolab. And since I'm still in break-in for the engine (haven't gotten to drive much due to rain and my work schedule colliding) I'm not itching to boost yet (okay I am but I can't, so that balances it out).
I still need to put the hood on, and get the top up so I can drive her in the rain. right now its fair-weather only.
BOOSTED Vert
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,307
Likes: 0
From: Miami
damn youre lucky you have rides to work and ****, cus I couldnt be amonth w.o driving the vert.... I mean I havent gotten her ready, and thats mainly cus I still need to build the engine which is a rotor away..... anyways before her I had a car, which I wrecked, which is why im swaping the turbo motor in.....anyways, good luck and I hope everything goes well..
Hehe rides to work... I hardly EVER go "in" to work. I'm a software engineer mostly. I work at home.
I bum rides off my sister occasionally (she's got a working car and she and I share the place) and occasionally I can go and get my mom's van too. But it still SUCKS not having my own vehicle. Trust me.
I bum rides off my sister occasionally (she's got a working car and she and I share the place) and occasionally I can go and get my mom's van too. But it still SUCKS not having my own vehicle. Trust me.
Yes! I love it. Except you don't meet many girls. And even fewer hot ones. But I never did in any of my other more office-bound jobs either. So, I can afford (barely) this '7 project. Thank God for good credit and lots of it.



