DigitalSynthesis

Okay guys, for those of you who don't know, I've been doing a turbo-II swap into my '89 'vert along with a bunch of other mods and whatnot. It was originally intended to be a quick in-and-out stock-for-stock swap that rapidly became a monster. I'm posting this thread and will add a lot more to it later, as I have time to write (its a bit limited right now, but I wanted to start this before I forgot). Pictures and links to a personal website about this car will be forthcoming as I organize them.

I'll give you guys a writeup on the background of this car next, but for now, I just want to say we put the engine in today (finally!!).. the engine, transmission, rear subframe, front suspension, and dash are all in place and torqued to spec.

I have left:

:: complete the dash fixtures, radio, surround, steering wheel, etc...
:: the rear wheel hubs and brakes
:: all braided brake piping
:: engine bay wiring
:: A/C and P/S reinstall
:: pulleys, belts, and intercooler
:: hood, wheels, and cosmetics
:: custom exhaust assembly

I *will* be posting a LOT of items in various conditions from brand new to very used in the for sale and possibly on ebay in a month or so, when I find out what I still need and what I don't. Almost everything will be for an S5 N/A.

Anyways, I obviously haven't started the car yet so questions about performance, do I like x, y, or z, or the like will be irrelevant at this point, but if you have anything you'd specifically like to know about the process, what I've been through, or about the swap in general, feel free to post them here and I'll reply accordingly or include what you want in my updates.

For a very incomplete list of mods, see my sig...

And, before you have to ask, yes, it was expensive. Yes, I paid retail for most of it. Yes my bank account hurts right now. No, I don't care (well, much). No, I'm not rich. And yes, I have a decent job but its nothing special. Basically, most of the entire project was an afterthough, and I would do a lot differently if I knew what I was getting myself into at the beginning, but I have learned so much in the process, too. But that's for another post...

DigitalSynthesis

Ok time for some pics:

Steam cleaning the car in preparation for sandblasting:
http://www.argentproductions.com/arbeit/rx7.html

A pictoral step-by-step of the blasting and re-undercoating process:
http://www.argentproductions.com/arb...ercoating.html

Pics of the suspension install and engine bay will be forthcoming shortly. Although there doesn't seem to be much interest in my project... hm...

Okay, if you are interested in seeing more pics, and my starting to do short article-ettes on my experiences with various aspects of this project post something so I can get a feel for whether I should spend the time writing about it or just say screw it and spend the time on the car.

Trav

Still looking at all the pics, but definitely keep us updated! Always nice to see a vert being worked on!

I am curious though, it looks like the car is still on stands in the blasting pics -- did you do all of that with the car on the ground? Or did you have a lift?

DigitalSynthesis

I did it with the car on the ground as it is in the picture. I have no lift.

Yes, it was a complete biatch. I still have sand coming out of parts of the engine bay trim and front bumper as I continue finishing the engine itself. Not to mention it temporarily turned my entire house into a beach...

truespin88

Keep us posted. We've missed ya in #rx7club

vaughnc

Wow you tackled the underbody first thing, I you. 90% of the car can be stripped, primered, & painted from above including the engine bay, but you ACTUALLY DID THE UNDERBODY ON JACK STANDS.

I wimped out and just restored the suspension & subframe for now. I planning on taking my carshell to a shop with a carbody JIG so I can spin the car right-side up to strip it.

DigitalSynthesis

Well... I fudged a bit. I did the trans. tunnel, and underbody above the rear suspension, all four wheel wells, and the engine bay. I did NOT do the side sills or drop the gas tank or pull the bumpers. I'm using my mom's garage and she was far more than generous (and far more than stressed) as it was with the mess I'd already made. I didn't have the heart to do any more than was absolutely necessary. My mom kicks ***, btw. She let me put my parts all over the house, work on stuff at the kitchen table, use her oven for curing painted parts, and even let me use her car and work around her work schedule for the six months mine has been apart. She deserves credit on this project too, for sure.

Yeah I thought about going that far, and taking it somewhere but the point of this project was to save money (which is WAYYY moot at this point having dropped far too much into this car -- much of which I would have spent differently had I known then what I do now, but more on this later)....

=================

New link for youse guys:

http://www.argentproductions.com/arbeit/rx7.php

Will change in the upcoming days as I make it the central page for my project but right now its just yet another photo album. This time of the engine install and the current status of my engine bay.

I ran into some major A/C problems. Apparently (and I'm sure its covered many times on this site I just didn't think to search first) the Sanden and Nippondenso A/C not only have different fittings on the compressor itself (requiring different hoses) BUT the lines to and from the dryer/reciever are also differently sized for whatever reason. I had a sanden on the 'vert, and there was a nippondenso on the Jspec so when I tried to install the nippondenso aluminum dryer/receiver (which was, since it was aluminum, in MUCH better shape than the steel sanden unit) it did not fit at all. So now I must sandblast and paint the sanden unit... and I hoped I was done with blasting and painting... guess not.

Corbit

damm that is some really nice work, I am thinking about doing the same thing but not to that extent. What has being the worst part of it exept for the cash, and thanks for the write up keep up the goods.

DigitalSynthesis

If you meant "what has been the worst part of it, except for the cash", I'd have to say stuff breaking constantly, or not fitting properly... all the random stuff that can go wrong, plus my impeccable perfectionistic character being forced to realize I will not have a show car after all this work, simply due to the fact that its old, it was a bad body to begin with, and I don't have the time nor the resources to do it fully 100% right, I can only get the basics for now. Lots went wrong, a little went right, but I've learned a lot from this project, and if my bank account rebounds, I will not regret having done it.

Actually, the worst part about it... not having my '7 for 6 months, and having to get rides or drive f***ing automatics around.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Man I wish I could do that, I want a turbo vert so bad! Good job with the car though!

DigitalSynthesis

Okay, new update... the stock sanden reciever/dryer will NOT bolt up to the nippondenso condenser!!! ??? WTF?? Its a condenser! Here's the deal.. the condenser has an input port from the compressor. Apparently both compressors fit this nut, regardless of make. However, the nippondenso kit has a smaller diameter pipe and nut on the output side than the sanden kit!? The reciever/dryer, piping to and from the condenser, and piping to/from the firewall are all unique to the compressor brand! So why, if they can apparently make the condenser's INPUT the same for both compressor brands, can they not make the condenser's OUTPUT the same????

Well, now I have to see if the nippondenso piping fits the fitting on my firewall. If so, I can just get the right pipe from the firewall to the reciever/dryer, and be done with it, since the only part I'm genuinely stuck with is the 'denso condender and the sanden compressor unit. I really don't want to go get another condenser unit... so I'm hoping the nippondenso stuff fits the sanden firewall fittings like it seems to on the compressor end of things. But who knows how stupid their IEs were in designing this system... :-/

DigitalSynthesis

Well, no pics today but a brief update. I got the center dash console assembled, and am ready to do the shifter bushings and assembly. I've also got my stereo reinstalled, the wiring for my wideband and narrowband AFR gauges (narrowband in use during breakin, wideband coming online shortly thereafter to avoid oil and smoke damaging the wideband sensor), and the wiring for my fuel pressure gauge which also mounts in the center console. The SAFC is just sitting in place but it will be properly mounted soon and later I plan to make a fibreglass fascia to seamlessly fit it in where the ashtray went.

I'm in the process of fixing my windshield wiper switch... it was almost useless before and I've got it taken apart so I can diagnose the problem. I've decided that the actual rotary switch itself is still good, although its starting to develop measurable resistance in the intermittent setting, which is not good and does not compare favorably to the JSpec assembly I pulled. Unfortunate that they also mirror all the controls for the vehicle, otherwise I'd have a drop-in replacement. As it is, I can only use the relays off the Jspec and must keep my existing rotary switch. I had bought a new omron relay for the switch but I can't find it after the few months of crazy work on the car. All my little parts got shuffled around so many times, so I've got to use the ones off the Jspec and I'll probably end up getting new ones later down the road. The 'vert doesn't use one of the three relays (no rear wiper) so I'm safe there.

Anyway, I'm hoping to do some work on my RX-7 web page as well shortly. I'll probably wrap all the different photo albums I have floating around into one main browsing page, and sort them into albums, etc.

If anybody has any good suggestions on getting aluminum air conditioner piping made up that fits between the reciever/dryer and the condenser (two compression fittings on aluminum piping... I have both fittings but I don't think anybody would want to weld up piping that small... it would be a bitch)... please let me know. Its going to be a hot summer here I can tell already...

DigitalSynthesis

Ok guys, more info on the project, and a few tips...

I went to bleed my brake system, and I purchased speed bleeders. Initially I used the kind I picked up at Pep Boys since I could get them quickly and cheaply. However, their book does not contain the right numbers for RX-7's with the 4-piston front calipers. So I went ahead and ordered stainless front caliper bleeders from speedbleeder.com at $15 each. I am waiting for those to arrive, but I went ahead and bled the rear brakes and will use a vaccum pump on the front brakes (doing it myself... so can't do it the free way) while I wait for the speed bleeders. They make a HUGE difference, and really work. I highly recommend them, and I have heard at least one naysayer state that "they leak". I have to refute that. When closed, they are identical to the OEM bleeder screws, there is no way possible that they would leak any more than the OEM units will, which is negligible if at all. When open and bleeding, leaking in one direction is the point. They work as advertised and are an excellent buy. I even used one of the rear bleeder screws for the clutch slave cylinder (Speed Bleeder part #7100). Pep boys (at least the Atlanta area ones) does not stock the Help! brand equivalent (Help! resells speed bleeders for pep boys) for our cars, and they are the same price so I would highly recommend you buy them from speedbleeder.com anyway, get them shipped to your door, and have the option of stainless which I would do all the way round the car if I ever need to order them again.

Okay, today I got the fan and shroud, pressure sensors (stock and aftermarket gauge), and BOV (Greddy) installed... all I have left in the engine bay is the following:

-- Battery
-- Intercooler (after I bleed the clutch)
-- A few brackets to hold various wiring harnesses
-- The AFM + cone intake (have to clean my cones... have an Apex'i and a Bonez and I am not sure which I'm gonna use)
-- The plastic covers and undertray (after I verify the engine is working and not leaking any fluid)

The interior needs to be washed (from all the shop dust) and the plastics put back in place. The shifter needs to be installed, and the rear deck needs to be put back in place after I reconnect the 'vert top with the motor assembly.

Last, but very much not least, my custom exhaust needs to get fabbed up by a friend of a friend. I'm having a cat pipe, and a straight pipe with resonator welded up for me to go between the downpipe and the catback, both of which will have a bung for my wideband installed in them. I will keep a stock-type O2 sensor in the downpipe for comparison (ha!) and for the ECU to use during break-in while I have my wideband out to avoid smoking problems. When I get money I'll go for the stainless racing beat DP + mid pipe.

I took some more pics today but I will have to post them tomorrow.

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

been waiting for pics

import_rican

sweet dude, i'm in the process of putting a turbo II in my vert.. but I don't have the ***** to do it myself, so I'm having a shop in montgomery do it. Did you have to change the gauge cluster on it?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

hey import rican, how much are they charging you for doing that?

gerbraldy

Nice vert for your aviator, mine looks exactly the same. I hope to be buying a complete TII car w/o title in the next month so I can do a complete swap. BTW does anyone know what a stock s4 turbo vert would do in the quarter mile?

import_rican

They are charging me 1000 bucks and will tune it for me.. I think it helps though that I am good friends with owner's nephew... but he is going to tune it and all

DigitalSynthesis

I did not change the gauge cluster over. You might note that if you do, you MUST use the original tachometer... its vastly illegal otherwise. I simply added a set of Greddy gauges (boost, water temp, fuel pressure) to complement the information I receive from the NA panel. Having the voltmeter is nice, IMO, since the stock boost gauge sucks anyway.

I think you meant avatar , but yeah it started out as a normal black 'vert, and will be only subtlely different on the outside, but completely reworked under the hood.

If you mean you want more, did you see the ones I've already posted previously in this thread? I have a few new ones but they look very similar at this point to what I've already given you, just more stuff in the engine bay and whatnot.

import_rican

it's only illegal if you get caught! j/k save the money and buy me the gauges then... thanks though!

Trav

I think you mean odometer...

looking good otherwise. Keep up the work and get those pics up!

DigitalSynthesis

Dammit! I knew I had the wrong word yeah I did in fact mean odometer. All dealers, and some mechanics, will report your mileage and if there is a discrepancy the state will come knocking on your door. So, getting caught is easier than you might think. Just be smart, use your existing odometer, and you'll be fine with whatever other gauges you choose to run. Remember, of course, that the NA's don't have the pin for the boost gauge in the wiring harness though. Just be aware of that.

Trav

mileage discrepancies will also show up on a carfax (or similar vin check).

DigitalSynthesis

Update for the evening/morning:

- Installed my old-school HKS turbo timer
- Installed most of the dash plastics
- Test fit the Greddy fuel pressure gauge in the hole I cut in the plastic panel below my radio. I also cut but did not get around to trimming and test fitting a hole for my wideband display to flush-mount it.
- Test fit the SAFC in the former ashtray recess ... will fabricate a fiberglass insert for this tray so I can permanently mount the SAFC there.
- Installed lower intake manifold on turbo ... I'm keeping the stock intake piping.. the S curve may be bad for airflow but there is little truthful evidence to back this up. Until I can fabricate a proper intake using exhaust U-bends or something I'm sticking with the Mazda one which has all the proper check valves and whatnot on it. However, my wastegate controller is currently not in the wastegate control loop to keep the boost down during break-in.

Planned for Sunday:
- Bleed front brakes
- Bleed clutch
- Purchase hose clamp for intake (I somehow lost the hose clamp that holds the two intake portions together)
- Mount engine wiring harness to passenger side shock tower and frame rail.
- Re-cover engine wiring harness in foil tape for heat rejection (the foil I'd put on it already got a bit tattered from the harness being wiggled all around during the installation of everything on the engine).
- Complete dash plastics

The reason I didn't finish the dash plastics are that the gauge surround which holds the turn signals and wiper switches, etc... had the bits on the bottom broken off where the two screws mount. So I fabbed up a few plastic tabs which don't look super pretty but don't look really ugly and epoxied them over the broken areas. I'm hoping it sticks well... the dash plastic is a bit funky, but I didn't want to use superglue unless epoxy didn't work, since epoxy is the better of the two adhesives, when it does stick. Once the epoxy sets (I give it at least 8 hours usually) I'll remount the surround, and in the meantime I'll fab up the panel below the radio so I can fit my two gauges in properly.

introVert

Been keeping an eye on your progress, Dig-

Gotta say I am way jealous! I have been contemplating this swap, but am considering going with an SC for my vert. Still reading and searching a bit, and saving my pennies. Your tips have been most helpful! Keep up the great work!!