My tie rods are breaking WRENCHES!!!!
07-15-06, 02:53 AM
#1
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My tie rods are breaking WRENCHES!!!!
I was trying to adjust my tie rods... As of now I have broken 2 stanley 17mm flare (that is about $20-25 worth of broken wrenches) nut wrenches trying to loosen it... I dont understand why they are this tight because I just put them on a couple of days agoo... it is weird...
Also, when I turned on my lights the other night I smelled smoke.... electrical smoke... So, I took off the cluster thing and found that the wires inside of the clip for the light switch are smoking... I am about to just cut the wires and replace the clip with another one, but it looks like that was already done (which is very possible seeing how this is a used car.) How to avoid this from happening again?
Also, when I turned on my lights the other night I smelled smoke.... electrical smoke... So, I took off the cluster thing and found that the wires inside of the clip for the light switch are smoking... I am about to just cut the wires and replace the clip with another one, but it looks like that was already done (which is very possible seeing how this is a used car.) How to avoid this from happening again?
Last edited by Apathy; 07-15-06 at 02:58 AM.
07-15-06, 08:59 AM
#3
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coat them down with pb blaster, and buy a decent wrench you'll get them loose
are you turning them the right way?
righty tighty lefty loosey lol
are you turning them the right way?
righty tighty lefty loosey lol
Last edited by slow_2ed_gen; 07-15-06 at 09:08 AM.
07-15-06, 09:52 AM
#4
Doin a rebuild.
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I put the 12mm on the tie rod (locked aginst the anti-sway bar stuff) and a 17mm on the end.... hit the 17mm with a rubber mallet hard once and boom it should pop loose.
Make sure you're going the right way, on the drivers side the end wrench should go up and toward the driver (opposite on other side).
If you had craftsmen a trip to sears would replace your wrenches had they broken.
Stephen
Make sure you're going the right way, on the drivers side the end wrench should go up and toward the driver (opposite on other side).
If you had craftsmen a trip to sears would replace your wrenches had they broken.
Stephen
07-15-06, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sar
I put the 12mm on the tie rod (locked aginst the anti-sway bar stuff) and a 17mm on the end.... hit the 17mm with a rubber mallet hard once and boom it should pop loose.
Make sure you're going the right way, on the drivers side the end wrench should go up and toward the driver (opposite on other side).
If you had craftsmen a trip to sears would replace your wrenches had they broken.
Stephen
Make sure you're going the right way, on the drivers side the end wrench should go up and toward the driver (opposite on other side).
If you had craftsmen a trip to sears would replace your wrenches had they broken.
Stephen
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07-15-06, 10:05 PM
#8
Originally Posted by sar
If you had craftsmen a trip to sears would replace your wrenches had they broken.
07-15-06, 11:35 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
Yep, theyre real good about that. I was trying to get my front pully nut off and I had a 1/2 drive breaker and a 3/8 drive socket (I had already stripped out the internals of my 3/8 socket wrench) so I got an adapter. I sheared the tip off and came back with it, so he exchanged it for an impact grade one for the same price. I then came back with it sheared off and he refunded me all the money.
07-15-06, 11:50 PM
#10
Yeah, I've never heard of a wrench of any quality snapping in two. I have the 8 dollar set or 9 from walmart and never had problems.
The problem with sears is that they are expensive, at least for caftsman. I just shop there because our home depot has a shitty selection of metric tools.
On a seperate note, I ended up having to take a blow torch to that damn bolt to get it off.
The problem with sears is that they are expensive, at least for caftsman. I just shop there because our home depot has a shitty selection of metric tools.
On a seperate note, I ended up having to take a blow torch to that damn bolt to get it off.
07-16-06, 10:17 AM
#12
yeah
I've even used reasonably cheap wrenches on stuff like that.
so anyways
once you get a quality wrench, you can use a jack on the ground to "jack up" the end of the wrench and force the bolt to turn, your stock jack will work really well since it has a slot to hold the wrench in even.
that's how I had to remove my tierods.
I've even used reasonably cheap wrenches on stuff like that.
so anyways
once you get a quality wrench, you can use a jack on the ground to "jack up" the end of the wrench and force the bolt to turn, your stock jack will work really well since it has a slot to hold the wrench in even.
that's how I had to remove my tierods.
07-16-06, 10:56 AM
#13
Stay running...please??
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On my old AE86, I tried to change the trans fluid, and when I was trying to open up the drain plug, my wrench actually expanded, moved around the groove, and closed back up. It didn't break though. That's pretty crazy.
07-16-06, 01:49 PM
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Heat it, use a torch and heat it till it is cherry red. I know this will techniclly weaken the strenght of the nut. But, hey I have been doing this for year in MI the home of rust and seized parts, you will be fine. Just heat it up till it is cherry red then put the wrench on and wiggle it back onad forth.
07-17-06, 11:12 PM
#15
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I got it loose. I bought a Craftsman 17mm spanner, proped the 12mm under the control arm to keep the tie rod from spinning, and stood on the 17... I weigh 225 and it still took a couple bounces.... And that was after I sprayed it with pb blaster a few minutes earlier.... I cannot believe it was that tight...
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