when i turn the key to ign, it should spin the starter, but instead, it clicks very rapidly, and the power in the whole car come and goes just as fast as the starter click. and when i mean it rapidly does this, its like 10 times a second or 20 times a second. i didn't try it again for fear that i might blow the main 100 amp fuse.

i have an s5 with an s4 t2 starter and tranny

anyways, i checked the faq, and it simply says "adapt the wiring"

is there something im missing? the funky looking piece thats like.. a 90 degree bend goes on the right post ( looking at from rear to front of the car ) , the standard one on the left, and the black clip attached to the tab.

someone told me i have to ground something aswell. i know there is a small wire that has a resistor on it, but it broke off, and i think its needed?

 

Usually when it clicks that fast u need to charge the battery

 

mine clicks then i have to turn it again and then it will go i thought it was the solenoid but i had the starter checked and its good its gotta be a ground problem

 

Loose battery terminals, dead battery, bad ground. In that order.

 

If your solenoid is good then you should check the positive cable going towards the starter first. Sometimes they corrode to a point where it builds up resistence and does voltage drops. If its alright, the other problem would be the grounding. You can directly ground the starter by getting a connector that allows you to splice a 6-8 guage wire and to connect it through the starter bolt thats on the top, so that when you tighten the bolt, the connector acts as a washer somewhat. Then connect the other end to the negative side of the battery.

90% of the time, when the starter click when you turn the key, its usually a bad solenoid with its contacts being dirty.

 

well it sounds like you are wasting 90% of your time when you get under to remove the starter and clean the solenoid. CHECK YOUR BATTERY!!!!

 

the n/a starter's Solenoid is on the Top of the starter,where-as the TII starter's solenoid is on the Bottom...you need to have enough Wiring to get to the connections,and that means to Yank without Disconnectiong anything on the Harness to give you enough Room to get the Main Positive wire to the bIG terminal on the Starter and get the Other Smaller Wire with the Female spade connector to the Spade connector on the Solenoid..Check your Connection at the Starter..The BIG copper terminal is on he positive wire could be loose due to you having the wire Stretched to fit there.It will be secured with a 12mm nut..make sure that it isn't touching the Other Connectors on the solenoid.

 

I've had problems with the positive cables going to the starter needing to be replaced. Check them for fatigue and damage.

 

well ther terminals are tighter than a nuns patootie, and the batery is an optima red top. it was fully charged wheen i sat it on the milk crate. it registers 12.50 volts.

ground. i grounded the negative side of the bat to the passenger shair rasil bolt that bolts the rail to the chasis of the car.

also, i ran a ground wire from the bottom of the tranny plate to the chasis.


what else am i missing?

on another note, i did have to pull the wires, but they didnt get too badly bent imho. should i run a NEW wire there or sumtin?

 

I had to replace the wire to the solenoid on my car a good ways up the harness (didn't have to take the harness out or anything, though). High resistance in my solenoid wire caused the turnclick-turnclick-turnclick-turnstart symptom you're having.

 

its not a turnclick turnclick problem.

its a turn click click click click click problem im having.

where is this sulenoid your talking about? is it the smaller cylendar on the starter?

 

12.5V is low. Charge the battery. You want closer to 12.7V. Try jump starting with another car - seems the easiest and quickest way to check.

Never ignore the obvious and most common things, like a weak battery or an empty gas tank.

The black square condenser that bolts to the slave cylinder is for the oil pressure sender not to screw up according to reliable sourses here on the list. Condensers are also used to lower electrical interference, as I understand it. Anyways, it is surely unrelated to your starting issue.

 

would .2 volts matter?
the fuel pump isnt hooked into the haltech. i just wannt crank the shizer, not start it up.

i found this out in a nother thread. thanks though. it mounts behind the oil filter ped.

 

If the starter is wired properly, and doesn't spin over - you have voltage problem, or the wiring to the starter isn't allowing the proper amount of voltage to get from the battery to the starter.

Or the starter is dead.

Boost/jump the car and try again.

 

ok. let me make this clear. i do not want to start the car. i just want to spin this engine over. its a fresh rebuild and i want to prime the system first. but the problem is, the damn starter. im going to go ahead and get a newer one cus this one is simpley rusted all over the place. i cleaned up the studs and measured everythingwith a volt meter, but o well.

 

i got everything bolted down again, and low and behold, nothing still. this time the starter is slient. could i have destroyed it? i dont know. its too bitter cold outside to know or to crawl on the ground to check. think i should just grab a new one or what?

 

check for a ground to engine to body. main ground wire at bellhousing boult good there then jump the to big nuts on starter .it should then spin

 

o its good. i grounded it to the seat bolt where the 2+2 seat would go.

i dont have a frigging ground on the bell housing except the one that uses that rinky dink clip that connects at the firewall near the charcoal cannister.

maybee my voltage is too low? i dont know. i need to check voltage again. but its reading 12.5 volt when i started to get this **** started.

i dont know. this is the only thing keeping my t2 swap from being able to start.
this is my daily driver and my mom is getting pissed at me. i need to get a bicycle i think. my work is only 3.9 miles away.

 

I still bet it is a bad battery, start by having it checked at a shop with a load tester not a household volt meter.

 

Is your battery inside your car now? If so what gauge cables do you have going to your battery? At 12.5V your battery is only at 80%. Also if your battery is grounded to your body you need at least a 4gauge ground from the body to the engine for proper current flow.

 

Im not there and cant see and check things but you say is gounded to the seat beat. do you have a direct ground from battery to engine?The starter grounds itself to the bellhousing. the motor mounts would be enough ground

 

i grounded the battery to the bolts where the 2+2 seats would go with 2 gauge wire. the metal was ground down to bare and bolted there.

also the main 12v wire is like 1/2 gauge. its big thick *** welding wire. maybe i need to run a new ground from the body to the engine somewheres. ill see how well that goes.

i wonder if a place like batteries plus will test the battery for me. i remember when my bat registered 10V in its previous location, it would still crank that SOB to kingdom come.

could it be that i maybe killed the starter?

 

advance and oreilly's both test batteries for free if that's easier/cheaper than a local battery shop.

it always could be the starter or ignition switch even, but the battery is an easy place to start testing.

 

i know the ignition switch works cus the relay activates.

 

im going to try this again to see what im missing. it should crank right up now that i have everything hooked up. i never thought that i would have this kind of problem.