MDD0101

well i cant afford to get big power yet some im sticking with the stock turbo for now.
am i missing anything?

full racing beat exhaust
upgraded fuel pump
fcd
upgraded injectors(what sizes?)
some type of fuel controller (but which one?)
boost controller

then turn the boost up to 12ilbs..

MDD0101

should i go with a koyo and e-fan too? anyone?

phoenix7

sounds fine to me. You can't go wrong with the SAFC for fuel, Maybe some 680cc or 720cc injectors for secondaries and upgrade the primaries once you get a bigger turbo(depending on the size of the turbo you might need to upgrade your secondaries again). I don't think you should boost more than 12 psi on the stocker though.

You can never go wrong with an upgraded radiator or Efan (look at older GM fans like the Fiero or any NEWER high CFM fans)

make sure all your oil, fuel, vaccuum, Brake and any other LINES you can think of are in good shape and replace them.

what exactly you want to hear but it seems like a decent budget project.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

you shouldn't need upgraded injectors, because you really shouldn't boost to 12psi on the stock turbo. if you stick to 10psi (which you will get WITHOUT a boost controller in an s4 with that exhaust) then the stockers should be fine as long as they were recently cleaned.

get an SAFC-2

and a K&N cone intake (with the adapter plate that fits onto the MAF, or AFM, i forget what its called atm.

definitely no need for an e-fan, and no real need for a radiator either. stock will be just fine.

phoenix7

You're pushing the injectors to the MAX at 10PSi. I would hate to see him Spike to 15psi (like I have done in the past) when the Injectors are at or past 80%, 90% duty cycle. So he shouldn't NEED to replace them but he SHOULD. Everyone should know that S4's spike due to their puny 11mm-13mm wastegate and even though the S5 wastegates are BETTER than S4's; they STILL SPIKE, especially with open exhaust.

As far as the Radiator, he doesn't need it but he will eventually. Might as well get it out of the way NOW. If you upgrade your cooling system now you'll be able to upgrade your turbo and IC without worrying about the POTENTIAL heating issues he might face in the future.

Telling him he doesn't need these things is like telling a 14yr. old he doesn't NEED condoms (just because he's a tad young, you dirty bastards) but 1-2 years later he's a daddy (in our current case: blown coolant seals/motor)

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Why don't you use the money you would spend on those parts (which add up to alot) and invest in a standalone initially. That way the platform has a good base, you can tune with the stock components and make more power and potentially better fuel economy.

I wish I would have done this when I did my swap.

phoenix7

^he COULD do that also. Let's hear from him regarding his time frame (when he plans to start/finish) and BUDGET.

full-cruise

iTrader: (5)

dont forget to port the stock wastegate n change the flapper. intake+exhaust= more flo and the stock gate is already at its max from the factory.

phoenix7

^^^at first I thought it was a good idea too but he's going to replace the turbo eventually so there is no point in removing the turbo, porting it and replacing the flapper JUST to REMOVE it again later. It IS a great idea IF you don't plan on changing the TURBO EVER (or at least a year+) But we need to know about his budget and time frame in order to give him better ideas.

Carguy34

WINNER!!!!!

I would run far far away from any FCD and SAFC combo. Buy used parts when they come available for cheap if you are on a tight budget. If I were starting to build another TII the first thing I would do is buy a standalone. Even before exhaust or fuel. Then overbuild the fuel system (realistic HP goals plus 150 HP or so) and upgrade cooling (Koyo is a good option, with the e-fan I would recommend a FD alternator at the same time which is another $200). At that point you will have a good enough base that you can turn the boost up and/or put on about whatever turbo and exhaust combo you want. It doesn't appear to be the cheapest route, but if you look at the whole picture, saving the price of one rebuild from turning up the boost too soon will cover the price of almost everything that I listed. Just my opinion, take it for what it's worth.

-B

Michael Knight

iTrader: (1)

+1
That's the smart descision, but unfortunatly not the fun one.

WadeMCarter

Standalone can be fun..

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

so can blowing you motor :P at least, getting there can be, and then you're kicking yourself for the next three years trying to come up with the cash to fix it. plan ahead, don't run high boost with a FCD.

MDD0101

well as of now im also saving for rebuild parts and my car has no exhaust whatsoever. so once my cars running im gonna need the racing beat full exhaust initially..so should i save for the exhaust and a standalone?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

a standalone is reportedly a great place to start, it should be able to manage whatever you throw at it as you're slowly building it up, versus getting an FCD then running high boost and messing stuff up. you got the fuel mods right, if you want to run higher boost you need bigger injectors and fuel pump, but I think in order to run them properly you'll also need a standalone. now, I haven't had direct experience with this YET, but the people who have have said the same thing and their reasons make sense.

WadeMCarter

Get an FCD, exhaust, and then standalone. after that, get all your other toys.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

would the FCD be necessary, even useful, if a standalone is in there?

phoenix7

the other guys are right. With a standalone from the beginning you can add any parts you want and you know you won't need to change the ECU ever again. As one guy said above: If you're on a budget and can get a great deal on parts then go FCD and SAFC but if you CAN go standalone from the get go so all you have to do is add parts and tune.

MDD0101

i mean its all about what im better off doing in the long run because either way i have to save money first. im not all about speed yet because ive never even driven my stock TII yet.. but haveo owned 2 na's. so im sure ill have fun driving it stock at first and going with the standalone from the beginning. but i need exhaust, and if i get the racing beat boost is going to spike on me right? will porting the wastegate fix this for me? do i just need a boost controller to hold stock boost?

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

The fewer big bucks parts you have to get along the way, the better. An FCD may be cheaper than a standalone right now, but reselling it you may lose money and you might harm your engine while you use it. Eventually you will need a standalone, and since it's essential to just about any serious upgrades, you should probably get that first and you shouldn't have to mess with temporary upgrades.

exiletalon

My question is, I am about where he is at the point of modification. I am very interested in a standalone. However- I have to be 100% emissions legal, what available standalone is there that provides the options while being totally legal.
my car is a turbo 90 s5

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I would think that a standalone won't necessarily keep you from complying with emissions, you might just have to get a series of high-flow cats in your exhaust. I really don't know, but where there's a will (...and cash) there's a way.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you're forgetting that installing a standalone requires ripping the car apart if you choose a haltech/microtech or at the very least many hours of tuning if you just do a plug and play application... on a stock car essentially? It's not like he has an FD and can just install a Power FC and be done with it. There is a much higher hidden cost of time and money when you do standalone on a second gen.

Just do the fuel system correctly for the power level and you should be fine on the stock ECU. Rewire the fuel pump for example. Standalone is a big time and money investment. Get it when you need it, and consider something intermediate like an Rtek before that.

And a standalone will make emissions harder. The stock ECU controls all the emissions solenoids, and no standalone will do that without expending some effort to make some of the stuff work.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

My bad, I wasn't forgetting, I just didn't realize it.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

Not 100% true. You can get a Power FC and the Banzai Racing adapter kit that includes everything you need. He can also supply a base map for what your car is running. Takes alot of the guesswork out of the picture.

Also, you can get a Megasquirt PnP unit with a base map loaded on as well, and go from there.

Also, depending on the condition of the car, a new harness with a standalone may not be a bad thing.