88 TII. I finally installed my first rebuild I have been working on for several months now (off and on). The engine will start and keep an idle, but it idles high (around 1800 rpms) and has sort of a rythmic "bounce" in the idle. The main problem is it can't even get the car moving well. I took it down the road about an 1/8 of a mile and I couldn't get it back up the gradual incline because I had crap for power. So could this be a problem with my rebuild or does this sound more like a vac leak or an improper connection some where?

 

sounds like timming to me..

 

Timing, vac leek, not enough fuel, not enough air.

Also, you need to remember to go easy on rebuilds for the first 2K miles or so. It's going to run rough, it's going to have problems, but eventually it'll be okay.

The lack of power isn't good though...

 

Or the LEAD plugs are not working and just the Trails???

Dittos on timing???????????

 

All rebuilds don't have much power on first startup. You've got to let it run so it can build compression.

 

IF it's got a rhythmic bounce on the low end that reminds you of a modified v6, you have a bad side seal in all likelihood. Check compression...perhaps you ported too much.

The lack of power is somewhat normal for a lower compression engine, especially on low end. Your timing could also be off a bit.

 

I checked my timing and it is definetely off and I can't get the damn timing right! I've plugged the CAS in like 6 times now and each time the yellow mark is about an inch away from the pointer. Could there be something wrong with the CAS? I'm beginning to think I may have installed the accessery gear wrong, is that possible? I'm almost positive though that I put in on correctly, because I remember making a mental note of which direction the larger shamfer faced. Any ideas?

 

The gear on the e-shaft can go either way, both sides are identical. Your problem is your installation and timing adjustment on the cas. I have not seen a bad cas yet.

 

okay, so let me check the installation procedure then. From what I understand, the first step is to line up the yellow mark on the pulley with the pointer on the front cover. The next step is to line up the smaller spherical mark on the cas gear with the pointer on the cas housing. The last step is to slide the cas directly into the cover. Is all of that correct? If that is correct, I would think that I would have installed it correctly by now, but it keeps messing up. Also, to check timing, the timing gun must be connected to the L1 spark plug wire, correct?

 

You are taking the cover cap off and holding the rotor from spinning during install, correct?

 

What does Homer say...DOE. No I wasn't and I am rather retarded for not doing so. Thanks, I'll give that a try.

 

Well I tried that, and it definitely didn’t move, but my timing is still off for some reason. Its pretty close, but still of my about half an inch.

 

Well then jump a tooth one way and then the other and see if you get closer. BEtween the adjustment slot and jumping teeth, you shold be able to get it dead on.

DId you swap front pullies/hub combos during any of this? Using an engine with a front hub different from the stocker, and using a different set of pullies that didnt come on that hub originally, can cause marks themselves to be off a lot.

 

its all the same equipment. I guess I’ll keep messing with it. Thanks so far though.

 

Well, I got the yellow mark to line up with the pointer while the engine is running, so I guess the timing is set. It idles smoother than before now, but it is still a little rough. I think it still may be lacking power though, but I'm afraid to take it out of the driveway to truely find out for fear of getting stuck down the road. Any other specific vacuum lines I might check or some other component? Oh, and also my freakin turbo is glowing a nice bright orange! Think this could be related to the problem? Could I be blowing by a lot of fuel and it is burning in the turbo?? thanks

 

Did you hook the gas hoses up correctly maybe the feed and return are swapped ?

 

Glowing exhaust is a common sign of timing out of whack by 15 degrees or more. IT doesnt sound right to me.

 

You know some advice to all when doing an engine swap or rebuild take pictures lots of pictures so you don't have to try and remember where things go .

 

The fuel hose coming out of the fuel filter goes to the primary injectors and the other goes to the secondaries, right? If that is correct, then that is how I have them installed. Can the timing still be messed up even when the yellow mark is lined up properly (while using the timing gun)?

 

well, I labeled practically every connection, so I think everything is together right...

 

I'm having about the same problems: glowing turbo, little power, hesitates a lot when trying to open the throttle at all. I only have about 15 miles on the rebuild. I will retry setting the timing when it's below 1000RPM, but what else should I look for? The smoking has all but stopped, I have about 50psi oil pressure around 1000RPM. I'm keeping it below 4k RPM yet even with a ported and freely open wastegate it will boost (despite all my attempts not to, it's a streetport I did and I guess it flows well, if I engine brake there's a TON less engine braking power than on the original motor with the same exhaust setup between the two). I probably triple checked the plug wires and I labeled the injector plugs. I really don't know if this is normal...

I did use a hub from another '87 TII (same as mine) and put the original pullies on my motor, the same model/year should have the same hub right? *crosses fingers* If in fact the timing marks are incorrect, how would I adjust the timing? Install the old hub (PITA)? Or is there some other way?

 

Looks like my timing was severely retarded, but due to the timing marks being way off. It runs 'best' with the timing marks not even visible using a timing light, 'best' meaning:
A) My turbo doesn't glow bright orange and melt things in my engine bay.
B) I have throttle response
C) I don't boost when I don't want to, which is always until it's broken in (and seriously, with a wide open wastegate yet still boosting under light throttle, I must have been doing most of the combustion in the turbo!)

So, as it is my timing is not perfect, but it must be fairly close. That said, it obviously still needs work, and I need to finish mounting a catch can (I decided not to use the RA OMP adapter, so I'll use the tank for a catch can) as well as replace all the crap the turbo melted...

 

remember when setting timing, the idle has to be near 750 rpm.. the ecu advances the timing to ~15*, zero split if idling around 1000rpm. If you set the timing with the idle too high, your timing will be way advanced. An easy way to check this is to see if both the leading and trailing timing are on the same spot.. if so, then your idle is too high to set timing

 

I broke down (mentally) and changed the hubs anyway. I lined them up according to the keyway and sure enough they were different by several degrees. Really it wasn't much, but obviously enough to cause serious problems. But now I laugh because my 100 mile rebuild holds an idle at 800RPM!