my rear subframe build thread
#1
my rear subframe build thread
Just started my rear sub-frame build on my S5 TII that I've been planning for a while now. I don't really plan on dropping the subframe again any time soon so I'm trying to do everything at once
Here is the parts list:
FD Torsen LSD in an S4 TII carrier with S4 TII stub shafts
Mazdaspeed diff mounts (front and rear)
Polyurethane pinion snubber
MMR solid subframe mounts
AWR rear camber adjusters
AWR adjustable toe links
AWR rear control arm spherical bearings
DTSS eliminators (delrin)
I'm also trying to source a set of delrin bushings for the triaxial hub from Mariah. Hopefully they'll sell them to my by themselves so I don't have to buy the whole kit of stuff I won't be using...
Last night I dropped the rear subframe. It wasn't too bad. Just removed the exhaust from the y-pipe back (on a RB REV-II exhaust, don't know if it's the same for a normal exhaust)
other than that you remove the calipers (zip ties to struts), unbolt struts, unbolt drive shaft, cut ABS vehicle speed sensors (I don't use ABS) unbolt stock camber link, and then unbolt the subframe and diff mounts with a jack under the diff and lower it...
I'll update this thread as I go...
Here is the parts list:
FD Torsen LSD in an S4 TII carrier with S4 TII stub shafts
Mazdaspeed diff mounts (front and rear)
Polyurethane pinion snubber
MMR solid subframe mounts
AWR rear camber adjusters
AWR adjustable toe links
AWR rear control arm spherical bearings
DTSS eliminators (delrin)
I'm also trying to source a set of delrin bushings for the triaxial hub from Mariah. Hopefully they'll sell them to my by themselves so I don't have to buy the whole kit of stuff I won't be using...
Last night I dropped the rear subframe. It wasn't too bad. Just removed the exhaust from the y-pipe back (on a RB REV-II exhaust, don't know if it's the same for a normal exhaust)
other than that you remove the calipers (zip ties to struts), unbolt struts, unbolt drive shaft, cut ABS vehicle speed sensors (I don't use ABS) unbolt stock camber link, and then unbolt the subframe and diff mounts with a jack under the diff and lower it...
I'll update this thread as I go...
#2
Old Rotary Dog
looks good! keep us updated.
One warning: for me, dropping the subframe was easy. Lifting it back in was where you will want a couple friends and another floor jack and a couple stands.
At one point I contemplated building a wooden stand/frame to hold the subframe in the proper alignment for re-installation. I may still do this when the time comes to install the clutch LSD in the track car. Anyone heard of something like this?
-b
One warning: for me, dropping the subframe was easy. Lifting it back in was where you will want a couple friends and another floor jack and a couple stands.
At one point I contemplated building a wooden stand/frame to hold the subframe in the proper alignment for re-installation. I may still do this when the time comes to install the clutch LSD in the track car. Anyone heard of something like this?
-b
#5
Nope, I only drive it once or twice a week and race it on the weekends. Do you have experience with them? I didn't think they would be that bad considering the front subframe is bolted right to the body... but I assumed the spherical bearings will probably be pretty harsh.
#6
looks good! keep us updated.
One warning: for me, dropping the subframe was easy. Lifting it back in was where you will want a couple friends and another floor jack and a couple stands.
At one point I contemplated building a wooden stand/frame to hold the subframe in the proper alignment for re-installation. I may still do this when the time comes to install the clutch LSD in the track car. Anyone heard of something like this?
-b
One warning: for me, dropping the subframe was easy. Lifting it back in was where you will want a couple friends and another floor jack and a couple stands.
At one point I contemplated building a wooden stand/frame to hold the subframe in the proper alignment for re-installation. I may still do this when the time comes to install the clutch LSD in the track car. Anyone heard of something like this?
-b
yeah, I've heard that putting it back on is a lot harder, especially with solid mounts and stiffer diff mounts. We'll see how that goes
#7
So I worked on it for an hour or 2 last night. Got the axles out (probably should have loosened them when they were still on the car...) and got the diff out. This diff will get thrown in the corner because I'll be using an S4 diff which I put the FD torsen in (due to it's equal length stub shafts)
I also attempted to take the wheel speed sensors out, I should have learned my lesson when I did the fronts and just not even attempted the rears. they're a bitch to get out... I got one out but the other one snapped in half and it just going to hang out in there. I also stripped one of the brake rotor screws... so that should be fun to deal with later.
I also attempted to take the wheel speed sensors out, I should have learned my lesson when I did the fronts and just not even attempted the rears. they're a bitch to get out... I got one out but the other one snapped in half and it just going to hang out in there. I also stripped one of the brake rotor screws... so that should be fun to deal with later.
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#8
mazda mario
Join Date: Jun 2007
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#10
ok, so I pretty much have everything disassembled at this point.
the DTSS bushings kind of blew up when I took them out... it would be hard getting them out without damaging them...
random parts:
I've only run into a few problems...
first:
the top mount on the triaxle hub doesn't really want to come off... it has a sleeve in one of the sides and it won't slide off... anyone have any ideas?
you can see in this pic... it's the bottom part that's the problem
second: I stripped one of the brake rotor screws on one of my brake rotors... (lame...) so I'll have to drill it out.
I think I'll also be replacing my wheel bearings while I'm back there and also installing longer wheel studs and taking off the big rings for the ABS. they look heavy...
the DTSS bushings kind of blew up when I took them out... it would be hard getting them out without damaging them...
random parts:
I've only run into a few problems...
first:
the top mount on the triaxle hub doesn't really want to come off... it has a sleeve in one of the sides and it won't slide off... anyone have any ideas?
you can see in this pic... it's the bottom part that's the problem
second: I stripped one of the brake rotor screws on one of my brake rotors... (lame...) so I'll have to drill it out.
I think I'll also be replacing my wheel bearings while I'm back there and also installing longer wheel studs and taking off the big rings for the ABS. they look heavy...
#12
Ok, I haven't updated this for a while. I finished getting everything apart. (I pried that sleeve over about 1mm and was able to slide the knuckle off). and I drilled out the rotor screw so I was able to get that off too.
I then burned out my rear control arm bushings (I haven't went and got a press yet and was on a time restraint) and then went and took them to my friend's exhaust shop to get some stuff welded.
first, the rear control arm bushings are in 2 pieces so I just sat there with a torch on it until the metal dowel thing popped out and then pried the rubber out (repeat 4 times, twice on each arm) I then found out the rear control arm bushings have sleeves:
Me and my friend heated up the arms at his shop and hammered them out.
when then inserted the new AWR spherical bearings and tack welded them in place.
(ignore any crappy tacks, we put a bunch on this was an exhaust shop so I wasn't expecting much.)
and we also welded on the eccentric bolt adjustment delete onto the subframe:
These are so that bolt doesn't move around because I will be able to adjust toe with the new AWR adjustable toe links.
so stuff is starting to come together... slowly. I need to go get a press so I can press out the remains of the DTSS bushings and some other bushings (like the diff)
I also still need to order new wheel studs and wheel bearings...
I then burned out my rear control arm bushings (I haven't went and got a press yet and was on a time restraint) and then went and took them to my friend's exhaust shop to get some stuff welded.
first, the rear control arm bushings are in 2 pieces so I just sat there with a torch on it until the metal dowel thing popped out and then pried the rubber out (repeat 4 times, twice on each arm) I then found out the rear control arm bushings have sleeves:
Me and my friend heated up the arms at his shop and hammered them out.
when then inserted the new AWR spherical bearings and tack welded them in place.
(ignore any crappy tacks, we put a bunch on this was an exhaust shop so I wasn't expecting much.)
and we also welded on the eccentric bolt adjustment delete onto the subframe:
These are so that bolt doesn't move around because I will be able to adjust toe with the new AWR adjustable toe links.
so stuff is starting to come together... slowly. I need to go get a press so I can press out the remains of the DTSS bushings and some other bushings (like the diff)
I also still need to order new wheel studs and wheel bearings...
#16
Rotary Revolutionary
iTrader: (16)
I did all this stuff a few months ago (minus the spherical bearings and toe links) I removed the weight block and tossed it in the corner, it didn't seem to make much difference. However I really wish I would have installed a pinion snubber at the same time, just for piece of mind.
Also, cutting off the rear dust sheilds will make your life much easier.
Also, cutting off the rear dust sheilds will make your life much easier.
#17
I've ordered hopefully my last round of stuff:
- Delrin triaxial hub bushing (I had to order the whole kit, I'll be selling the delrin control arm bushings and extra DTSS eliminators)
- new DTSS bolts (the old ones were fused to the bushings)
- new axle nuts (old ones had been reused a few times)
- new rear wheel bearings along with the seals and ring clips
- longer 2.5" wheel studs for wheel spacers
now I just have to go get a press...
#18
Boost knob
iTrader: (13)
Get yourself a can of Por 15. When I pulled my subframe/diff out I ended up painting it all with that. They paint is a bit pricey, but its a much cheaper alternative to powder coating it. It will also prevent rust which is the main point while making it look much nicer. I got a can of black + a can of silver. The diff is silver, while everything else is black. I appreciate crawling under my car all the time now that it doesn't look like 2 decades of grime + oil.
Here's what I got -
Front control arm, but you get the idea
I still need to do a few things to my subframe, too bad I ran out of patients/money. Oh well.
As far as instal goes, I got two jacks + assembled everything on a crawler. Then pushed it out to the car + jacked it up. Make damned sure that you raise it up equally. You can't do the front half then the back or side to side. It needs to be equal or it won't all fit. A buddy will make your life a **** ton easier too.
Here's what I got -
Front control arm, but you get the idea
I still need to do a few things to my subframe, too bad I ran out of patients/money. Oh well.
As far as instal goes, I got two jacks + assembled everything on a crawler. Then pushed it out to the car + jacked it up. Make damned sure that you raise it up equally. You can't do the front half then the back or side to side. It needs to be equal or it won't all fit. A buddy will make your life a **** ton easier too.
#23
Originally Posted by deadRX7Conv
What sites/stores are you getting all the parts from?