Just started my rear sub-frame build on my S5 TII that I've been planning for a while now. I don't really plan on dropping the subframe again any time soon so I'm trying to do everything at once

Here is the parts list:
FD Torsen LSD in an S4 TII carrier with S4 TII stub shafts
Mazdaspeed diff mounts (front and rear)
Polyurethane pinion snubber
MMR solid subframe mounts
AWR rear camber adjusters
AWR adjustable toe links
AWR rear control arm spherical bearings
DTSS eliminators (delrin)

I'm also trying to source a set of delrin bushings for the triaxial hub from Mariah. Hopefully they'll sell them to my by themselves so I don't have to buy the whole kit of stuff I won't be using...

Last night I dropped the rear subframe. It wasn't too bad. Just removed the exhaust from the y-pipe back (on a RB REV-II exhaust, don't know if it's the same for a normal exhaust)

other than that you remove the calipers (zip ties to struts), unbolt struts, unbolt drive shaft, cut ABS vehicle speed sensors (I don't use ABS) unbolt stock camber link, and then unbolt the subframe and diff mounts with a jack under the diff and lower it...







I'll update this thread as I go...

 

looks good! keep us updated.

One warning: for me, dropping the subframe was easy. Lifting it back in was where you will want a couple friends and another floor jack and a couple stands.

At one point I contemplated building a wooden stand/frame to hold the subframe in the proper alignment for re-installation. I may still do this when the time comes to install the clutch LSD in the track car. Anyone heard of something like this?

-b

 

MMR solid subframe mounts will transmit a lot of noise into the cabin. Is this your daily driver?

 

any sound the muffler doesnt cover up the radio will hahaha

 

Nope, I only drive it once or twice a week and race it on the weekends. Do you have experience with them? I didn't think they would be that bad considering the front subframe is bolted right to the body... but I assumed the spherical bearings will probably be pretty harsh.

 

Thanks

yeah, I've heard that putting it back on is a lot harder, especially with solid mounts and stiffer diff mounts. We'll see how that goes

 

So I worked on it for an hour or 2 last night. Got the axles out (probably should have loosened them when they were still on the car...) and got the diff out. This diff will get thrown in the corner because I'll be using an S4 diff which I put the FD torsen in (due to it's equal length stub shafts)



I also attempted to take the wheel speed sensors out, I should have learned my lesson when I did the fronts and just not even attempted the rears. they're a bitch to get out... I got one out but the other one snapped in half and it just going to hang out in there. I also stripped one of the brake rotor screws... so that should be fun to deal with later.

 

wrong,, only will the diff if it has solid mounts,

which he doesn't

 

Which I have, and its not really that loud... I have solid engine mounts, and it doesn't vibrate that much. I am DD'ing mine. Wippidy doo, a little noise. A stereo could easily drown out the noise from the diff....

Let us know how the torsen works out....

 

ok, so I pretty much have everything disassembled at this point.

the DTSS bushings kind of blew up when I took them out... it would be hard getting them out without damaging them...



random parts:



I've only run into a few problems...

first:

the top mount on the triaxle hub doesn't really want to come off... it has a sleeve in one of the sides and it won't slide off... anyone have any ideas?

you can see in this pic... it's the bottom part that's the problem


second: I stripped one of the brake rotor screws on one of my brake rotors... (lame...) so I'll have to drill it out.



I think I'll also be replacing my wheel bearings while I'm back there and also installing longer wheel studs and taking off the big rings for the ABS. they look heavy...

 

the way i got mine out is by putting a punch in on the one side of the knuckle to push that metal peice out so i could slide it off (probly not the right way but it worked) good luck

 

Ok, I haven't updated this for a while. I finished getting everything apart. (I pried that sleeve over about 1mm and was able to slide the knuckle off). and I drilled out the rotor screw so I was able to get that off too.

I then burned out my rear control arm bushings (I haven't went and got a press yet and was on a time restraint) and then went and took them to my friend's exhaust shop to get some stuff welded.

first, the rear control arm bushings are in 2 pieces so I just sat there with a torch on it until the metal dowel thing popped out and then pried the rubber out (repeat 4 times, twice on each arm) I then found out the rear control arm bushings have sleeves:



Me and my friend heated up the arms at his shop and hammered them out.

when then inserted the new AWR spherical bearings and tack welded them in place.





(ignore any crappy tacks, we put a bunch on this was an exhaust shop so I wasn't expecting much.)

and we also welded on the eccentric bolt adjustment delete onto the subframe:



These are so that bolt doesn't move around because I will be able to adjust toe with the new AWR adjustable toe links.

so stuff is starting to come together... slowly. I need to go get a press so I can press out the remains of the DTSS bushings and some other bushings (like the diff)

I also still need to order new wheel studs and wheel bearings...

 

Another quick question... the counter weight that's on the front diff mount, it looks like its transferable to the Mazdaspeed mount but most people don't seem to use it. Does it serve a purpose?

 

have you seen this thread?
http://www.ziptied.com/forums/index....2422#msg132422

 

yeah, I have seen that, he used a lot of the same parts I'm using but I'm going a bit less extreme than him as I do still drive it on the road a decent amount.

 

I did all this stuff a few months ago (minus the spherical bearings and toe links) I removed the weight block and tossed it in the corner, it didn't seem to make much difference. However I really wish I would have installed a pinion snubber at the same time, just for piece of mind.

Also, cutting off the rear dust sheilds will make your life much easier.

 

I've just been bending them out of the way when necessary, haven't really had a problem.


I've ordered hopefully my last round of stuff:
- Delrin triaxial hub bushing (I had to order the whole kit, I'll be selling the delrin control arm bushings and extra DTSS eliminators)
- new DTSS bolts (the old ones were fused to the bushings)
- new axle nuts (old ones had been reused a few times)
- new rear wheel bearings along with the seals and ring clips
- longer 2.5" wheel studs for wheel spacers

now I just have to go get a press...

 

Get yourself a can of Por 15. When I pulled my subframe/diff out I ended up painting it all with that. They paint is a bit pricey, but its a much cheaper alternative to powder coating it. It will also prevent rust which is the main point while making it look much nicer. I got a can of black + a can of silver. The diff is silver, while everything else is black. I appreciate crawling under my car all the time now that it doesn't look like 2 decades of grime + oil.

Here's what I got -



Front control arm, but you get the idea



I still need to do a few things to my subframe, too bad I ran out of patients/money. Oh well.

As far as instal goes, I got two jacks + assembled everything on a crawler. Then pushed it out to the car + jacked it up. Make damned sure that you raise it up equally. You can't do the front half then the back or side to side. It needs to be equal or it won't all fit. A buddy will make your life a **** ton easier too.

 

+1 for a buddy
+2 for 2 buddies

Btw anyone wanna sell a set of hubs w/ good bearings and DTSS eliminators installed?

 

PS - I got all my bushings out with a drill, punch, hammer + torch.

 

+10000.

I also POR15'd the whole underside of my car when everything was out. It was a HUGE PITA, but I no longer have rust falling in my eyes every time I get under the car which is a huge plus.

 

What sites/stores are you getting all the parts from?

 

yeah, I started going over them the other day with purple power (cleaner) I can now tell which pieces are aluminum haha. I'm not sure I'm going to paint them or not, it's not a bad idea, we'll see.

I've been including the brands when I list most of the parts. I've gotten a good portion of them from AWR (http://www.awrracing.com/)

 

Fantastic initiative. The car will feel like new after all the work.

 

hopefully better than new