2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

My problem is finally narrowed. . still TPS?

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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 04:55 PM
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SkyWalker's Avatar
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My problem is finally narrowed. . still TPS?

I ran my car for about 30 minutes today, reving in different ranges, and my baby only hesitates (as in I hold the gas steady and it'll drop then rise, drop again and so on) exactly between 1500 and 2000 RPM. My TPS is a used on I picked up, so I wanna know is it adjustable or should I spend another 150 . . to get a new one? Also, I just replaced everything iin the cooling system besiides my water pump, levels are steady, yet still my add coolant buzzer goes off until I hit the gas, brake, or just have the key in. .IT'S DRIVING ME INSANE!!!. .where exactly is the bastard, underneath the spark plugs? the radiator itself?. . .I just wanna cut wires!. .
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Coolant level sensor is smack dab in the middle of the top of the radiator, I don't think that is what's causing your buzzer to go off though. Sounds more like a wiring issue.

As for the revving, you probably need to adjust your TPS. There is a guide in the FAQ on how to do this, I believe.

Good luck.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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Sounds like low brake fluid is causing the buzz.

Fully heat the engine up and monitor the output of the TPS. It should read one volt dc at idle. Idle being 750-800 rpm. See the FSM for the location of the input from the tps to the ECU. Pin 2G I think. Green/Red wire. Backprobe the wire with the plug on the ECU. ENGINE FULLY HOT. Even hot and idling will do.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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I'll look into that, but what about the hesitation?
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by SkyWalker
I'll look into that, but what about the hesitation?
a bad or out of adjustment TPS will result in hesitation as well as surging
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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the tps is the problem adjust it if it still has hesitation get a new one and you wont have that up in down in your throttle between 1500 and 2000 either.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 04:07 PM
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The up/down in the revs is the result of fuel cut, much like when you drive along and then lift off the throttle. When you do that the fuel is cut from both rotors and will not be injected again, until the rpms drop below??? 1100rpm or so. That's just a guess but that is why I think the TPS needs to be set when the engine is fully hot and has an output of approx one volt dc when set.

The engine has to be hot because of the water thermowax device and it's interface with the throttle linkage which in turn effects the plunger on the TPS.

Or it could be another thing all together. Who knows. Cars there, we're here.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 04:26 PM
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Well my filters are clean, I tested my injectors, most my sensors are new except the O2 and TPS. . .and it's only a problem when I take her out when shes not fully warmed up, or the other drop in RPM's I was talking about in nuetral
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 04:43 PM
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What is your normal idle rpms when the engine is fully warmed up?
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 04:51 PM
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have you messed w/ your throttle cables and/or cruise control cable? If so it might be hung up. This is of course after u set the tps.
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Old Dec 18, 2007 | 04:55 PM
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750 is the normal, which I had to adjust. . I thought the throttle cable was the problem at first because it would only hesitate at the begining of acc. But now it's in between the 15k and 2k mark only. EXACTLY is more like it. . .and my add coolant buzzer is going haywire, different every time. Accel. it goes away, key in it's on, turn the car on it turns of for random amounts of seconds. . .
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