I think I finally made a descion on the mods I plan to do!

What I have now:
HKS FCD
Blitz BOV
RB turbo back exhaust

Soon to come:
Blitz Spec R Boost Controller
HKS AFR
HKS Intake
Corksport
SS Brake Lines, oil lines, clutch line
Naca Duct
Mazda Trix
Toe elmininator and Camber adjuster
Racing Beat Sway bar end links
FD alternator swap
Okada Engineering Short throw shifter

For now I think I am just going to rewire the fuel pump and maybe pick up a FD fuel pump...Because I am not looking for alot of power 250-70 at most.

Other consideration (if I have extra cash)
Walbro 255
Areomotive FPR
HKS Twin Power
JIC FLT A2
RB Sway bars
Prothane Bushings
REBUILD MY ENGINE!
Strut Tower Bars

So what do you guys think?

 

On your soon to come list, hold off on the boost controller and intake. You will need an upgraded fuel system to handle that much boost. A walboro or FD pump should suffice, and should be tuned with an S-AFC or similiar device. On my car I had just a FCD, Intake and RB exhaust, car lasted about ~10 hours before I blew the engine. You will also want to port the wastegate as big as possible. What year is your car? Good luck btw, maintaining a TII is hard. Remember to ask the pros here before you do any mods. Any small adjustment could mean bye bye motor.

 

Hmmm, thats a lot of suspension work. But seriously what year is your car? Dont worry about getting a FD fuel pump, just take the extra cash and get the Walbro. Their not that much and worth every penny. THAT needs to be one of your first mods. Fuel system on our cars is vital. But you should know that by now. Also make sure the car is fully intune before modding heavily. A new upgraded clutch is also worth every penny. Thats not a bad list, but slightly bigger secondary injectors, an Apex'i SAFC, and the fuel pump should be in that primary mod list. Thats my .02

 

Yes, go with the walbro. They are like $100 shipped or so from ebay. If you are going past 10psi or so I'd get some 720s and have your car tuned on a dyno just to be safe. Porting the wastegate is essential though for turning the boost up safely. I personally hate the foam filters that HKS/GReddy have and would go with a K&N or similar, but thats miniscule. An upgraded clutch will be required at some point, but can wait until your stock one goes out. Also, a modified TID will give some gains in boost.

 

Its a 87 TII, Thanks for the input! Here is some of the reasons I choose what I choose (not trying to make a fight, just explaining):

Actually, I am just looking to get a boost controller to run LESS boost, And even If I would run more it would Definatly not be more than 10psi.

The FD pump will only cost me about $25 or less, depends on which person in the area I get it from, plus if I go with a Walbro I will need to get a FPR so I don't flood the engine as much, going with a Walbro I will need an extra $200 atleast....Plus, the FD fuel pump is good for 300HP.

The Suspension, Handling, is more important to me than speed.

I think the stock injectors should suffice until I want to crank up the boost to 10psi, but that not going to be to often.

That will be done when I need the engine rebuilt, it has 72K on it now with about 80-90 psi all around, so that will be soon,

May I ask why you hate them?

Thats what I figured as well, I have taken out a tranny to many times, and its a really pain in the ***! I have a throw out bearing going, still need to adjust the free play travel, hopefully that will help a bit.

Again thanks for the input! May I ask WHY everyone uses the SAFC? What makes it better than the HKS AFR?

 

a boost controller only raises boost. you can never lower it.

an FCD and an exhast = blow engine. get a fuel pump now and rewire it. with the intake you will hitting closer to 15psi and you'll blow it up.

afte the pump look into an apexi S-afc and bigger injectors. or port the wastegate to lower the boost.

 

You don't need a FPR with a Walbro.

Its porting the WASTEGATE, not the engine.


The foam filters just seems cheap and there have been some reports of them breaking up and going into the engine in some cases.


They are pretty damn easy to tune, and seem to work well for everyone. Thats what I have and its simple to use.

 

Are you sure about the boost contoller only raising the boost? Doesn't it allow you to CONTROL the boost? Hence if you have say the FCD, RB exhaust, and an intake you will be running 15psi, so I guess you can't run lower than 15psi then, right? Thats what its sound like you are saying...

I know its porting the wastegate, I mean I am going to port it (the wastegate) when I rebuild the engine, which will probably be soon, Leaving the engine none ported.

Why does everyone recommend a FPR when you upgrade the fuel pump then? Don't you need some way to control the excess fuel so the engine doesn't flood?

 

A boost controller only controls the wastegate. The stock wastegate doesn't flow very well at all and is why everyone will tell you to port it.


And I have a walbro and no aftermarket FPR and no flooding problems.

 

I know the stock wastegate is pretty damn weak, so if I port the wastegate then I can run lower boost?

No flooding? Hmmm I am confused!! I have been told and reading the oppisite. Ok maybe flooding was bad, running to rich?? Is that better?

I know maybe later on I might go with a Walbro but I am gonna trafe my froend my TII FP for a FD that he had picked, and I know that the FDs are good for 300hp, so that is why I tought that would be suffiecent enough for my needs, if anything I would need to upgrade the secondaries before I got to the limits of the FD fuel pump...

 

The FD pump should be good for your needs, yes. I am just letting you know that I have no floodings problems with my walbro.

And porting the wastegate will lower your boost, how much depends on mods and how much you port it. You can then use a boost controller to raise the boost to where you want it.

 

Not bad list.

Like said before. Your not using an aftermarket intake is helping from not popping your engine.

Don't forget your brakes. I know you said SS brake lines. But a little more would not hurt with the speed mods.

If you are serious about watching your AFRs do not waste your money on anything less than a Wideband. The HKS, APEXI, Haltech Haltuner, Greddy, and what ever AFR meters (if you can call them that) are all wastes of money and glorified voltage meters with blinky lights. You can DIY a wideband for 300-400. Search for Techedge.

James

 

I suggest to get the Mazdatrix Swaybar endlinks front and rear. Much higher in quality then the racing beat ones.

While your at it, why not dump in a roll cage. No need to spend $$$ on strut bars when you have a cage.

 

I do agree, but have heard GREAT things about the GReddy AF gauge, that it is just below a WB. It goes by numbers even and isn't just a light show

 

If you attach you mega-$$$ GReddy A/F gauge to the stock O2 sensor than it is no more or less accurate than my $15 DIY one. It doesn't matter who makes it or if it shows numbers or blinky lights, all it's doing is displaying the O2 sensor's voltage.

eyecandy, if you plan to stick with the stock turbo then the stock injectors with an FD fuel pump (rewired) are sufficient, particularly if you get an S-AFC too. Make sure to keep the boost down 10-11psi.

The wastegate porting is the most important mod you can do. Replace the stock flap with the biggest one you can fit and port as big as the new flap will allow.

If you get an EBC, it will allow boost to build quicker (better mid-range), but don't be tempted to wind boost up past 10-11psi, which is the safe limit of the stock turbo and intercooler.

 

Your right Jason, I always thought the GReddy one came with its own sensor. But I don't see a replacement sensor on their site so I guess not.

 

If I port the wastegate and I don have a boost controller, will that cause the turbo to not want to spool up? Say like right now I am running at 8psi, and if I port it alot can I still hit that 8psi without a Boost controller? Or will it only spool to say 5psi and I will need a BC to hit the 8 again?

Where can I get a new bigger flap to swap onto the wastegate?

So what do you really recommend?

Again thanks for all the input!

 

Anyone know the advantages for the Apexi SAFC over the HKS AFR?

Also how important is a WB O2?

 

No, it'll spool up normally, it just won't continue to boost uncontrollably.
With your mods it's unlikely you'll be down that low. But the idea is to see how much boost your mods give you, if you're happy with that then you may not want to buy a boost controller. But an EBC will cause boost to build faster because it holds the flap closed right up to max boost, eliminating wastegate creep (not boost creep). Because max boost arrives sooner, you go faster.

I'm not saying don't buy one, just don't use it to crank the boost up too high.
Turbo shop or DIY.

For tuning, a wideband on a dyno. For day-to-day monitoring (not tuning), which ever gauge you like the most.

 

Ok, say u hit 8psi now. You port the Wg and can only hit 5psi. Then you get any type of BC and turn it back up to 8psi. You will be better boost response and MUCH better control of your boost. This is essential in creating a reliable turbo-car setup.

And hardly anyone has experience with teh AFR. Why do you want it over the AFC anyways?

 

When I said spool, I meant boost. So yeah I get you now. How difficult is it to port the wastegate? Do you need a "speciallity" tools, or just like a drummel tool or something like that?

Ok this is a very stupid reason for wanting the AFR, one its not has big as the SAFC and two the color and how it looks.... I knwo I am very lame for choosing it that way, but still does anyone know what makes it better? I cannot seem to find anything on WHAT actually makes the SAFC BETTER than the AFR.