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Dec 14, 2005 | 11:46 PM

#26

Jager

Tear you apart

iTrader: (10)

Joined: Aug 2004

Posts: 5,891

Likes: 38

From: Bemidji Minnesota

Quote:

Originally Posted by spot_skater

Thanks for the info, but I don't really care too much about emissions. I just pay for my inspection sticker...

And you're absolutely right about the tuning being involved in engineering a header. I meant for him to have cats put in between the header and catback, where a presilencer would go. I guess I didn't make that too clear, my bad. At least that's what I would do if I were to run cats...Remove the presilencer and have cats welded together with flanges at each end, and bolt it up to the header and cat-back. I have the full RB system, which I'm sure you've seen. The presilencer is pretty long...I think he'd be able to fit a cat or two in place of it. Know what I'm saying?

James

I think its only a 4" difference in length from a stock cat (Racing Beat lists it on their site).

Dec 15, 2005 | 04:49 AM

#27

NZConvertible

I'm a boost creep...

Joined: Jan 2002

Posts: 15,608

Likes: 8

From: Auckland, New Zealand

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericgrau

6. Pulleys
Better alternator (FD probably).
15% underdrive pulleys for alternator + water pump

You seem stuck on the ideal of underdrive pulleys. Unless this a track car or a street car that sees a lot of track time, stay away form them. On the track where most of the time is spent at high revs there are benefits to slowing the accessories. On the street where most of the time is spent at low revs all you're doing is reducing the capacities of the charging and cooling systems for almost no gain. Upgrading the alternator will just get you back where you started. If you underdrive an FD alternator you'll end up with almost the same charging capacity and load on the engine as you had with the stock alternator and pulleys, making the whole exercise pointless.