My Finished Cold Air Intake
#26
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Even with the flapper door being so light, gravity will still have an effect. Think about it, fully closed is 0 cfm, and fully open should be a little over what the engine can flow (so say 400 cfm, just for arguments sake. This is all spread over 90 degrees of flapper movement, and isnt linear. Neither is the effect of gravity on the flapper. during the first 45* of movement, it will be pulling it closed, and during the last, it will be pulling it open, leaning you out at cruise and richening you at high CFM. The car will still run, but it will have an effect on it. Even assuming that gravity produces a 2* deflection at low load, and that flapper angle is linear with flow rate, thats still almost a 9* difference between reported and actual CFM. You said you had (or were getting) an SAFC in the other thread, so you should be able to tune for this angle, but not only are you making your life more difficult, but it would be easier and cheaper to just go with something like a megasquirt as long as you arent afraid of a little wiring (which you dont seem to be based on the afm removal thread)
#27
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Comstock Park, MI 49321
Posts: 3,717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
plain and simple this is not just a mazda thing ALL flapper style afm's weather it be mazda or datsun have to be level... it is the way the afm was designed, it will work better and not fail as early in its life..
u should have kept the afm in the stock location, kept it level and made yoru piping around IT.
now straiten that **** out and move the filter lower to the opening of the front facia and it will be nice..
Dave
u should have kept the afm in the stock location, kept it level and made yoru piping around IT.
now straiten that **** out and move the filter lower to the opening of the front facia and it will be nice..
Dave
#28
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Home
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Even with the flapper door being so light, gravity will still have an effect. Think about it, fully closed is 0 cfm, and fully open should be a little over what the engine can flow (so say 400 cfm, just for arguments sake. This is all spread over 90 degrees of flapper movement, and isnt linear. Neither is the effect of gravity on the flapper. during the first 45* of movement, it will be pulling it closed, and during the last, it will be pulling it open, leaning you out at cruise and richening you at high CFM. The car will still run, but it will have an effect on it. Even assuming that gravity produces a 2* deflection at low load, and that flapper angle is linear with flow rate, thats still almost a 9* difference between reported and actual CFM. You said you had (or were getting) an SAFC in the other thread, so you should be able to tune for this angle, but not only are you making your life more difficult, but it would be easier and cheaper to just go with something like a megasquirt as long as you arent afraid of a little wiring (which you dont seem to be based on the afm removal thread)
And yes I will get either a Megasquirt or something eventually.
plain and simple this is not just a mazda thing ALL flapper style afm's weather it be mazda or datsun have to be level... it is the way the afm was designed, it will work better and not fail as early in its life..
u should have kept the afm in the stock location, kept it level and made yoru piping around IT.
now straiten that **** out and move the filter lower to the opening of the front facia and it will be nice..
Dave
u should have kept the afm in the stock location, kept it level and made yoru piping around IT.
now straiten that **** out and move the filter lower to the opening of the front facia and it will be nice..
Dave
#29
Tear you apart
iTrader: (10)
Actually, surprisingly enough, after some full temp spirited driving, I can pop the hood and the air space around the filter is cool, filter is cool to the touch, and so are the pipes. But yeah, I will eventually put more fab work into it and put the filter out of the engine bay.
#31
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Home
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Interesting setup. The cold air box I can see leaking. I would seal it up better but thats an interesting setup.
I noticed my filter still gets fairly wam right near the radiator. I had a hunch before doing the project that possibly the heat from the rad would radiate onto the filter. I think that might be happening.
One thing I can say is that the power output of the engine is more consistant. Usually I would have a lot of power when the engine is around 180*F and with the outside temps being around 70*F. When both temps started to rise further, the power output would deminish quite a bit. Now with the CAI, the power output, even though still slightly drops when the engine and air is hot, the power output is more consistant.
I would like to see how the engine acts when its temps are near 210*F. I find the power output is pretty much nothing at those temps. ECU possibly going into fail safe?
I am going to look to move the filter further down into the bumper away from the radiator. Once I figure out how exactly I would like to do it without a whole lot of sharp bends, I will.
I noticed my filter still gets fairly wam right near the radiator. I had a hunch before doing the project that possibly the heat from the rad would radiate onto the filter. I think that might be happening.
One thing I can say is that the power output of the engine is more consistant. Usually I would have a lot of power when the engine is around 180*F and with the outside temps being around 70*F. When both temps started to rise further, the power output would deminish quite a bit. Now with the CAI, the power output, even though still slightly drops when the engine and air is hot, the power output is more consistant.
I would like to see how the engine acts when its temps are near 210*F. I find the power output is pretty much nothing at those temps. ECU possibly going into fail safe?
I am going to look to move the filter further down into the bumper away from the radiator. Once I figure out how exactly I would like to do it without a whole lot of sharp bends, I will.
#32
Don't hate my V8
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cornfield, Indiana
Posts: 1,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it looks great, we are planing on doin somthing similar to straightline_7's car, on my s4 TII i have a hard pipe going to the turbo bent at a 35 degree angle w/ the inlet of the AFM facing up (35 degreese). how much do you guy thing that will affect the driviblity of the car?
#33
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Home
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As you have possibly read, many think the AFM will wear out when its not level which is not true by any means.
My engine runs the same with my fuel adjustments with the AFM angled down, then it did when the AFM was level. Make sure the flapper does not move IN when you turn the inlet side straight up. If it does, it may effect the engine. On a Turbo engine, I would keep an eye on the AFRs since I don't know what the effect would be on a Turbo'ed engine.
I was really hoping to find 35 degree angle bends but I couldn't. When I buy the megasquirt and get rid of the AFM. I will do all hard piping. I can't weld aluminum so I will have my buddy, who runs a machine shop, weld it for me.
My engine runs the same with my fuel adjustments with the AFM angled down, then it did when the AFM was level. Make sure the flapper does not move IN when you turn the inlet side straight up. If it does, it may effect the engine. On a Turbo engine, I would keep an eye on the AFRs since I don't know what the effect would be on a Turbo'ed engine.
I was really hoping to find 35 degree angle bends but I couldn't. When I buy the megasquirt and get rid of the AFM. I will do all hard piping. I can't weld aluminum so I will have my buddy, who runs a machine shop, weld it for me.
#34
DOWNSTAIRS MIXUP
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Lampasas, TX
Posts: 2,723
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
... Well, I'll have to get ahold of an infared scope... lol. Anyways, all I'm saying is that I can PHYSICALLY TOUCH my intake tube and the filter after spirited driving on a hot day, and it isn't hot. Not even close. Cool to the touch= about 80*F or so. I wasn't saying "cool to the touch" to say that it was like -42*F or anything. I was just saying that radiant heat doesn't adversly affect it as much as one might figure.
#36
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Home
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
... Well, I'll have to get ahold of an infared scope... lol. Anyways, all I'm saying is that I can PHYSICALLY TOUCH my intake tube and the filter after spirited driving on a hot day, and it isn't hot. Not even close. Cool to the touch= about 80*F or so. I wasn't saying "cool to the touch" to say that it was like -42*F or anything. I was just saying that radiant heat doesn't adversly affect it as much as one might figure.
Looks pretty clean, congratulations.
#37
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Trust me, an unlevel AFM has a major effect on A/F ratios. I know this from direct experience. If the flapper is being dragged open by gravity, the car will run stupid rich. My original intake setup when I was NA had the AFM mounted such that the flapper pointed down and it brought the AF ratios down so far that the downpipe would glow red, car would stink like sulphur and mileage went into the crapper. Rand the car on an emissions dyno and the HCs were in the 1600s. Leveled out the AFM and HC dropped to around 150.
#41
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
it should be different depending on which way the AFM is tilted... you need to look at how gravity will pull the flapper around its pivot point, and it wont always be the same as the flapper moves, since its CG will move too, so you could get an orientation that leans out at low flow rates and richens at high flow rates (angled with the inlet down) or vice versa (angled with the inlet up), or different versions of this when accounting for twist around the air-flow axis. Itd be an interesting experiment trying to "tune" the engine's fuel map based on a precise way of mounting the AFM in an off-level manner... but a lot of trial and error.
#43
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Home
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My original intake setup when I was NA had the AFM mounted such that the flapper pointed down
#44
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/intake.htm
My AFM was mounted incorrectly mainly due to the lack of instructions included with the kit, causing the car to run crazy rich.
#46
The Assistant
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#47
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Home
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
it should be different depending on which way the AFM is tilted... you need to look at how gravity will pull the flapper around its pivot point, and it wont always be the same as the flapper moves, since its CG will move too, so you could get an orientation that leans out at low flow rates and richens at high flow rates (angled with the inlet down) or vice versa (angled with the inlet up), or different versions of this when accounting for twist around the air-flow axis. Itd be an interesting experiment trying to "tune" the engine's fuel map based on a precise way of mounting the AFM in an off-level manner... but a lot of trial and error.
The spring in the AFM can also be adjusted. Mainly you can only tighten it. Loosening from stock doesn't seem to be an option since the flapper would never fully close due to the secondary spring which is suppose to help the flapper close gently. Unfortunatly it only helps a little.
I really like how everyone is bringing their intake setups into this thread. Keep them coming, It's interesting see what others have done. Although most are put in the same place where the washer fluid resivoir was.
Has anyone relocated their washer resi or used aftermarket resi?
i think yours looks better than mine... thank god i dont have to deal with an afm though...
#50
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
whoa whoa whao - being my first post ill keep it light -
dood - Im a car guy, have been for years, helpin a bud setup a dd/autox/drift/whatever but i gotta ask you something - do you really think you are smarter than mazda engineers? ******* right dood. wtf?? I know I;m not.... I joined becuase I need some info to get this thing setup and doo some test n' tune before the year is out and this seems like a good place... I search CAI diameter and this **** pops up. A ******* n00b who things hes smarter than MAZDA wtf?? seriously??? you think you can calculate intake better than them?!?!! lol show me... for real
dood - Im a car guy, have been for years, helpin a bud setup a dd/autox/drift/whatever but i gotta ask you something - do you really think you are smarter than mazda engineers? ******* right dood. wtf?? I know I;m not.... I joined becuase I need some info to get this thing setup and doo some test n' tune before the year is out and this seems like a good place... I search CAI diameter and this **** pops up. A ******* n00b who things hes smarter than MAZDA wtf?? seriously??? you think you can calculate intake better than them?!?!! lol show me... for real