it cranks and cranks, it starts (eventually) but im afraid to mess it up even more than it already is, and after it stars up it missfires, i checked for leaks but i found none.

 

Sounds more loke a fuel or vaccume problem not an ignition problem. If it starts eventually then your ignition system is probably fine.

Lots of things it could be. We need more info about your car and what you have done to it reciently.

 

TII or NA?

 

its non turbo, sometimes i have to to start it with the accelerator pedal all the way down... even then it does start, but smoke comes from my shifter, and undercarriage of my fc ... it back fires and does smell like gasoline....what could it be???

 

Probably a vaccume leak. Have you done any work on it recently? What is the history of the car? Has the car been overheated?

What does the somke look like? Is is blue (ie. oil burning). Is it normal cold rotary exhaust?

We need more info to be able to help.

 

When's the last time you changed the plugs/wires? Answer the smoke questions ^^^ too. It could be flooding just a little or just running real rich at startup (which I'm pretty sure is how they were programmed to start anyway), you said the smoke smells like gas. As a basic maintenance issue you should check for exhaust leaks and fix them so you hopefully won't have trouble with exhaust getting in the car or coming out underneath it. You could have a stuck/leaky injector since you said it misfires. How does it run at cruise, WOT, decel, et cetera?

 

the leaks? i think it does have a leak, a huge one, when i rev the engine i see smoke or air coming out of it, from the driver side exhaust,

 

is your airflow meter plugged in?

 

airflow meter? where would it be located? and how do i know if its plugged or not?

 

the smoke is blue!!! i think it is oil then because the smok does seem blue< it seeps out of my underCARRAGE *** WELL, it prolly is oil burning but it also smells like gasoline... i think the missfiring is because of the exhaust leak and the oil an gass combo... ok then a tune up will be done... top of the line too, as for the compression 80 front rotor and 85 rear...

 

That is bottom of the normal range, you might consider a rebuild.

I am guessing that the combination of leaking injector and bad compression are your problem.

My '86 GXL has a leaking injector and always starts on only one rotor, the other one kicks in after the engine has run for about 5 seconds. If the compression was lower, it would probably not start (110psi front and rear).

 

Compression is low, so that definitely isn't helping the matter. But it sounds like there are a few things going on here. There is a big exhaust leak somewhere which is causing the smoke under the car after the back fire. Since your compression is low I would expect the oil burning is due to worn oil control ring rubber seals or the rings themselves, which can be taken care of when the rebuild is done.

That being said, neighter of these should prevent the car from starting up for you right now. The back fire is probably caused by a vaccume leak somewhere... probably a fairly big one. Large line not connected, crack in the intake tube, doughnut around the bottom of the primary injectors missing/cracked. You can try to track down the leak but the engine seems to be on its last legs at best. Time to think about a rebuild.

 

No, the low compression is the root problem. The low compression manifests itself as hard starts and flooding. Eventually the flooding/excess gas has probably fouled a sparkplug, and now you are having even rougher running due to the fouled plug, and one chamber not doing 100% of it's work.

I am telling you, these issues will continue to compound the more that the car is run in it's current condition. The best thing you can do is park it, take measures to store the engine to prevent internal deterioration, and drive something else until you can afford to go through it. I take it that you just recently got the car, and cheap...why do you think this was the case?

IF you keep trying to drive it, you will likely not only blow the engine and drive up your rebuild cost, but you'll possibly have a few extra hundred in tow bills for various compounding issues before it lets go.

 

so wat should i do where i live there is hardly people that are willing to work on a rotary engine and i love this car....today it wouldn't even start...i think that was it for it... a rebuild? where could i get that done i know of nowhere to get a job like that done...

 

There are tons of rotary shops in Cali. There is a guy on this forum by the username Karack in norcal who kinda does the same thing I do...repairs and rebuilds rotaries cheaper than the big shops. You might look him up if you are close.

Of course you always have the option to pull the engine and ship it to a builder anywhere in the country. I have done some work for west coast people, and even after they pay shipping of about 300 each way and my base price of $1000, it is still sometimes cheaper than if they had a local shop do the job for 2500-3 grand or more.

I have writeups on my website that show you how to remove the engine from the car efficiently, and also how to remove all the external stuff from the block.

I am one of the few builders who will allow customers to send complete engine longblocks and I take care of the teardown and reassembly as well as the rebuild of the block itself. Most builders require a block only.

 

yea i'm gonna have to get a rebuild i did the egi trick 5 times and it seems like it wants to fire up but it doesn't....i guess i got wat i payed for...and now it wont start at all... i think i will ship it to you ROTARY RESSURECTION, but i dont have the money to do that and unfortunately this was my daily driver...

 

Have you tried different plugs? The stock plugs foul easily during floods. I bet if you do the unflood procedure here: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...nflooding.html and put in new leading plugs it will fire right up.

You dont need any iridium or platinum plugs. Standard bur7eq plugs are what you want, 6 bucks a piece at advance auto or pep boys, or whatever you guys have out there in cali.

 

yeah i believe so, because when i was running the compression test, i saw that my spark plugs were brownish and looked kind of rusted...so i think my spark plugs are done for...im getting the today so they will be put on today and its gonna get a tune up.....

 

yeah i believe so, because when i was running the compression test, i saw that my spark plugs were brownish and looked kind of rusted...so i think my spark plugs are done for...i'm getting the today so they will be put on today and its gonna get a tune up.....