Shifter centering spring replacement.
01-27-08, 11:48 PM
#1
Shifter centering spring replacement.
As the title implies I need to replace the spring that returns the shifter to center when not in gear.
The trans is on my bench, Keven Landers has my motor so now is the perfect time to fix this PITA issue. Both the FSM and Haynes are rather vague on this. I know I need to remove the roll pin to get at this spring. The thing is I don't want to pull the shifter assembly from the trans housing without knowing that is the correct way to get the roll pin in and out. I can't drive it out from the side without it hitting the other side.
The trans is from my 88 T2. Its getting new front and rear seals, front stub the throwout bearing slides on as well as the fork for said bearing and the ball stop bolt the fork rest on when the clutch is engaged.
I`m replacing the ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch (came in the car) which really sucked on the street, with a Center Force dual friction sprung disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing. The flywheel is at the machine shop being machined ( yes the shop knows about the step needed on the flywhee)l.
Sorry for the long story, I tend to run on and on.
Has anyone here replaced this spring, I could use your input.
The trans is on my bench, Keven Landers has my motor so now is the perfect time to fix this PITA issue. Both the FSM and Haynes are rather vague on this. I know I need to remove the roll pin to get at this spring. The thing is I don't want to pull the shifter assembly from the trans housing without knowing that is the correct way to get the roll pin in and out. I can't drive it out from the side without it hitting the other side.
The trans is from my 88 T2. Its getting new front and rear seals, front stub the throwout bearing slides on as well as the fork for said bearing and the ball stop bolt the fork rest on when the clutch is engaged.
I`m replacing the ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch (came in the car) which really sucked on the street, with a Center Force dual friction sprung disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing. The flywheel is at the machine shop being machined ( yes the shop knows about the step needed on the flywhee)l.
Sorry for the long story, I tend to run on and on.
Has anyone here replaced this spring, I could use your input.
01-28-08, 09:21 AM
#3
Just came across your post...
Yes, you can't drive the roll pin out the other side. Take a drill bit and start driling the insides of the roll pin a bit at a time (diameter wise). When the pin is thin enough, you'll be able to pull it out. You're talking about the spring that goes around the shift rod, right? Anywho...you'll have to pull the extension housing off the tranny for the rod to move out of the way of the shifter ball block. Let me know if I've lost you...
Oh, and the other springs and ***** (that push you away from 5th/reverse) are behind the hex bolt and flange with two screws. These don't tend to go, though.
Yes, you can't drive the roll pin out the other side. Take a drill bit and start driling the insides of the roll pin a bit at a time (diameter wise). When the pin is thin enough, you'll be able to pull it out. You're talking about the spring that goes around the shift rod, right? Anywho...you'll have to pull the extension housing off the tranny for the rod to move out of the way of the shifter ball block. Let me know if I've lost you...
Oh, and the other springs and ***** (that push you away from 5th/reverse) are behind the hex bolt and flange with two screws. These don't tend to go, though.
01-28-08, 10:11 PM
#5
Just came across your post...
Yes, you can't drive the roll pin out the other side. Take a drill bit and start driling the insides of the roll pin a bit at a time (diameter wise). When the pin is thin enough, you'll be able to pull it out. You're talking about the spring that goes around the shift rod, right? Anywho...you'll have to pull the extension housing off the tranny for the rod to move out of the way of the shifter ball block. Let me know if I've lost you...
Oh, and the other springs and ***** (that push you away from 5th/reverse) are behind the hex bolt and flange with two screws. These don't tend to go, though.
Yes, you can't drive the roll pin out the other side. Take a drill bit and start driling the insides of the roll pin a bit at a time (diameter wise). When the pin is thin enough, you'll be able to pull it out. You're talking about the spring that goes around the shift rod, right? Anywho...you'll have to pull the extension housing off the tranny for the rod to move out of the way of the shifter ball block. Let me know if I've lost you...
Oh, and the other springs and ***** (that push you away from 5th/reverse) are behind the hex bolt and flange with two screws. These don't tend to go, though.
That is the answer I needed. I did not want to pull the shifter housing completely out of the trans only to have to disassemble the freekin trans to get it back together.
02-25-08, 09:27 PM
#6
Just came across your post...
Yes, you can't drive the roll pin out the other side. Take a drill bit and start driling the insides of the roll pin a bit at a time (diameter wise). When the pin is thin enough, you'll be able to pull it out. You're talking about the spring that goes around the shift rod, right? Anywho...you'll have to pull the extension housing off the tranny for the rod to move out of the way of the shifter ball block. Let me know if I've lost you...
Oh, and the other springs and ***** (that push you away from 5th/reverse) are behind the hex bolt and flange with two screws. These don't tend to go, though.
Yes, you can't drive the roll pin out the other side. Take a drill bit and start driling the insides of the roll pin a bit at a time (diameter wise). When the pin is thin enough, you'll be able to pull it out. You're talking about the spring that goes around the shift rod, right? Anywho...you'll have to pull the extension housing off the tranny for the rod to move out of the way of the shifter ball block. Let me know if I've lost you...
Oh, and the other springs and ***** (that push you away from 5th/reverse) are behind the hex bolt and flange with two screws. These don't tend to go, though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
