My FC engine project - where to go from here.
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
My FC engine project - where to go from here.
It all started with wanting t find a rotary to work on. To find out how it works, and learn about it. The engine side of a RX# anyways. After a little bit of a search, I dug up a 88 NA engine, trans, harness and ecu of craigslist. I knew it was not running, but did not know it was locked up. Oh well, for $50, I am able to learn how to take it apart and see what makes it work. I'm no stranger to piston engines, 2 and 4 stroke. Working at a motorcycle dealer as a mechanic, and wrenching on my own vehicles - I know my around a piston engine.
The engine and trans were pulled with 87XXX KM on them. Once I got it to school today (grade 12 and wanting a winter project, and fascinated with the rotary engine), I pulled the plugs to see if I could do the "poor mans comp test", as I was told that it had a bad apex seal on the front rotor, but I found water and rust on the plugs... dandy. Nothing poured out the plug holes though. The engine was stored inside, with rags plugging the ex. manifold and the intake, so I'm thinking it overheated and killed a water seal ? I tried to crank it with the starter - just direct to a battery - but no dice, could not even break it lose with a rather large breaker bar.
So, as it stands, I have invested $50 into this 88 NA. I'd like to take it down to the rotors, and build it back up, as long as the housings or shaft are not trashed. As of now, I'm trying to locate a socket for the flywheel.
Ideas on what direction to go with this?
The engine and trans were pulled with 87XXX KM on them. Once I got it to school today (grade 12 and wanting a winter project, and fascinated with the rotary engine), I pulled the plugs to see if I could do the "poor mans comp test", as I was told that it had a bad apex seal on the front rotor, but I found water and rust on the plugs... dandy. Nothing poured out the plug holes though. The engine was stored inside, with rags plugging the ex. manifold and the intake, so I'm thinking it overheated and killed a water seal ? I tried to crank it with the starter - just direct to a battery - but no dice, could not even break it lose with a rather large breaker bar.
So, as it stands, I have invested $50 into this 88 NA. I'd like to take it down to the rotors, and build it back up, as long as the housings or shaft are not trashed. As of now, I'm trying to locate a socket for the flywheel.
Ideas on what direction to go with this?
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
After some WD in the plug holes, and a bit of working with a breaker bar and she spun. Mind you, there was no compression from either rotors.
I got it all apart and there were no broken apex seals. From sitting for so long with little bits of water in their, I guess the side seals rusted to the irons. They were not gouged nor had pits in them, so would a simple cleaning do ? If so, what would be the best way to clean the contact surfaces, as to not destroy them ?
The rotors themselves looked in decent shape, save for carbon and a bit of discoloring on the sides (but I assume thats normal). But there was wear on the bearings, but those can be changed. The rotor housings themselves are what concern me the most. There are parallel groves near the plug holes. They are not deep, or have sharp edges, but I can feel them with my fingernail. There is (what seems to be) some scorching leading up to the exhaust ports also, maybe an inch long, but as wide as the port itself. The housings had some slight surface surt on them, but nothing that did not wipe off. No flaking on either housings.
The e-shaft looked to be in great shape. No scores or gouges.
Would you say this is worth working on / rebuilding, based on that?
Also, what are the reasons for having the stat gears? I can see the bearing support, also to keep the rotor from spinning independently from the e-shaft, but other than that; I can only draw a blank.
I got it all apart and there were no broken apex seals. From sitting for so long with little bits of water in their, I guess the side seals rusted to the irons. They were not gouged nor had pits in them, so would a simple cleaning do ? If so, what would be the best way to clean the contact surfaces, as to not destroy them ?
The rotors themselves looked in decent shape, save for carbon and a bit of discoloring on the sides (but I assume thats normal). But there was wear on the bearings, but those can be changed. The rotor housings themselves are what concern me the most. There are parallel groves near the plug holes. They are not deep, or have sharp edges, but I can feel them with my fingernail. There is (what seems to be) some scorching leading up to the exhaust ports also, maybe an inch long, but as wide as the port itself. The housings had some slight surface surt on them, but nothing that did not wipe off. No flaking on either housings.
The e-shaft looked to be in great shape. No scores or gouges.
Would you say this is worth working on / rebuilding, based on that?
Also, what are the reasons for having the stat gears? I can see the bearing support, also to keep the rotor from spinning independently from the e-shaft, but other than that; I can only draw a blank.
Last edited by DPeanut; 10-07-07 at 12:58 AM.
#4
Ooooooh, custom.
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Corona, CA
Posts: 618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pictures would help, but from what it sounds like, at least from my limited experience, is that its just worn a bit, though it could be too far. The spec for those grooves (if im thinking the right area) is .1mm I believe...not completely sure on that...but thats the measurement thats jumping at me.
The rotors sound to be in good shape. The bearings can be replaced, yes. Just need to find the right driver.
Something that you might try, is emailing atkins rotary, or buying their rebuild DVD (just got mine today, wheeeee!) That might help clear up any questions you have.
The rotors sound to be in good shape. The bearings can be replaced, yes. Just need to find the right driver.
Something that you might try, is emailing atkins rotary, or buying their rebuild DVD (just got mine today, wheeeee!) That might help clear up any questions you have.
#5
Mechanical Engineering
After some WD in the plug holes, and a bit of working with a breaker bar and she spun. Mind you, there was no compression from either rotors.
I got it all apart and there were no broken apex seals. From sitting for so long with little bits of water in their, I guess the side seals rusted to the irons. They were not gouged nor had pits in them, so would a simple cleaning do ? If so, what would be the best way to clean the contact surfaces, as to not destroy them ?
The rotors themselves looked in decent shape, save for carbon and a bit of discoloring on the sides (but I assume thats normal). But there was wear on the bearings, but those can be changed. The rotor housings themselves are what concern me the most. There are parallel groves near the plug holes. They are not deep, or have sharp edges, but I can feel them with my fingernail. There is (what seems to be) some scorching leading up to the exhaust ports also, maybe an inch long, but as wide as the port itself. The housings had some slight surface surt on them, but nothing that did not wipe off. No flaking on either housings.
The e-shaft looked to be in great shape. No scores or gouges.
Would you say this is worth working on / rebuilding, based on that?
Also, what are the reasons for having the stat gears? I can see the bearing support, also to keep the rotor from spinning independently from the e-shaft, but other than that; I can only draw a blank.
I got it all apart and there were no broken apex seals. From sitting for so long with little bits of water in their, I guess the side seals rusted to the irons. They were not gouged nor had pits in them, so would a simple cleaning do ? If so, what would be the best way to clean the contact surfaces, as to not destroy them ?
The rotors themselves looked in decent shape, save for carbon and a bit of discoloring on the sides (but I assume thats normal). But there was wear on the bearings, but those can be changed. The rotor housings themselves are what concern me the most. There are parallel groves near the plug holes. They are not deep, or have sharp edges, but I can feel them with my fingernail. There is (what seems to be) some scorching leading up to the exhaust ports also, maybe an inch long, but as wide as the port itself. The housings had some slight surface surt on them, but nothing that did not wipe off. No flaking on either housings.
The e-shaft looked to be in great shape. No scores or gouges.
Would you say this is worth working on / rebuilding, based on that?
Also, what are the reasons for having the stat gears? I can see the bearing support, also to keep the rotor from spinning independently from the e-shaft, but other than that; I can only draw a blank.
If there is any real doubt I would go for new housings if you plan on keeping the motor. You might want to pick up a FSM (factory service manual) to see if all your stuff is within spec. The stat gears are there to keep the rotors spinning in synchronization with everything else.
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
I was able to take a few pictures of the housings and irons today. The little bit of junk on the first housing just comes off with my fingernail. The second picture has that buildup that I was speaking of.
Little bit of flaking on this one.
You can see a little bit of a grove at the far end of the second picture, its no more than 0.5 mm deep.
Irons. There are no broken cooling lands, or discoloring. They just seem dirty to me.
Little bit of flaking on this one.
You can see a little bit of a grove at the far end of the second picture, its no more than 0.5 mm deep.
Irons. There are no broken cooling lands, or discoloring. They just seem dirty to me.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post