2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

My ECU is fried...got some ?'s

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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 09:41 AM
  #26  
neptuneRX's Avatar
Mazda4Life
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Rockville, MD
Icemark has rebuild ECUs for pretty cheap, well cheaper then Mazdatrix and Mazda anyway... I picked one up from him for like 35dollars
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 10:22 AM
  #27  
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HAILERS
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From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Re: Re: ecu

Originally posted by Rotory
i havent been swapping injectors...im the 3rd owner though and hit has had a rebuild...im pretty sure i asked someone and they sa i had the right injectors...my secondaries are red.
Colors are NOT reliable. Go by the number embossed on the side of the injector.


The Grounds that should be addressed are the ones for the ECU. The ones on pins 2C, 2R,3A, 3G.

And for the very last time: Its pin 2C (ECU ground), that is the important one to concentrate on. Look at your EGI EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM Schematic sometime. Find pin 2C. Follow pin 2C. See how the Brown/Black wire is split off to four or five different sensors? See how each time it splits off the split off represents a mechanical splice in the Brown/Black wire. See how if a splice is irregular that the ground signal will be compromised? See Jane run. Run Jane run. (couldn't help myself {humor}). OH, and the 5v ref signal wire, the brown/white, has similar potential problems.

Brown/Black on a series four anyway. Some other color on late series four/series five.

Your main ground is that big *** wire on your outboard starter bolt. The same wire that is grounded to the chassis just under the left strut tower before it reaches the battery neg terminal.
.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 12:33 PM
  #28  
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From: Novi Michigan
i have a similar question. If i did accidently reveresed my battery terminals could it partially fry the ecu to the point where everything still works but at the same time throw cels? thanks 0alex
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Old Mar 22, 2004 | 10:48 AM
  #29  
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WTF
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From: Tennessee
Re: Re: Re: ecu

Originally posted by HAILERS
Colors are NOT reliable. Go by the number embossed on the side of the injector.


The Grounds that should be addressed are the ones for the ECU. The ones on pins 2C, 2R,3A, 3G.

And for the very last time: Its pin 2C (ECU ground), that is the important one to concentrate on. Look at your EGI EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM Schematic sometime. Find pin 2C. Follow pin 2C. See how the Brown/Black wire is split off to four or five different sensors? See how each time it splits off the split off represents a mechanical splice in the Brown/Black wire. See how if a splice is irregular that the ground signal will be compromised? See Jane run. Run Jane run. (couldn't help myself {humor}). OH, and the 5v ref signal wire, the brown/white, has similar potential problems.

Brown/Black on a series four anyway. Some other color on late series four/series five.

Your main ground is that big *** wire on your outboard starter bolt. The same wire that is grounded to the chassis just under the left strut tower before it reaches the battery neg terminal.
.
yeah im working on getting everything grounded good and i know where all those grounds go. Are you saying this is what is causing my injector drivers to overheat?
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