my dyno results, why didnīt get more??
#26
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it sprays 250ml/min and comes along at 0,5bar boost pressure. I have 3 different size injectors for it but havenīt got a chance to try two of them.
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Originally posted by 1Revvin7
stock ports? Turbine a/r is a little large as mentioned. What trim turbine wheel? It should not spool up that late. A dyno chart would help....
stock ports? Turbine a/r is a little large as mentioned. What trim turbine wheel? It should not spool up that late. A dyno chart would help....
#29
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Hmmm, I would expect you to see "full" (10psi) by 3000 RPM or so... but definatley before 3500. My turbo, which is much larger than yours makes 15psi by 3500 and 19 by 4000.
Tunning could definately be hurting spool, or the hardware itself could not be working together.
Find out what trim your turbin wheel is for sure. Hopefully it's a "P' trim. If for some strange reason it's a 'Q" that could explaing some of it. Also, what manifold are you running? That will affect spool as well.
Is your exhaust mandrel bent? What does the piping comming out of the turbo look like?
Tunning could definately be hurting spool, or the hardware itself could not be working together.
Find out what trim your turbin wheel is for sure. Hopefully it's a "P' trim. If for some strange reason it's a 'Q" that could explaing some of it. Also, what manifold are you running? That will affect spool as well.
Is your exhaust mandrel bent? What does the piping comming out of the turbo look like?
#31
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Re: my dyno results, why didnīt get more??
Originally posted by Faster Is Faster
I have 2" IC piping, isit too small? Would it help if I got 2,5"?
I have 2" IC piping, isit too small? Would it help if I got 2,5"?
U should be running 3" piping all the way.....
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Originally posted by carx7
Hmmm, I would expect you to see "full" (10psi) by 3000 RPM or so... but definatley before 3500. My turbo, which is much larger than yours makes 15psi by 3500 and 19 by 4000.
Tunning could definately be hurting spool, or the hardware itself could not be working together.
Find out what trim your turbin wheel is for sure. Hopefully it's a "P' trim. If for some strange reason it's a 'Q" that could explaing some of it. Also, what manifold are you running? That will affect spool as well.
Is your exhaust mandrel bent? What does the piping comming out of the turbo look like?
Hmmm, I would expect you to see "full" (10psi) by 3000 RPM or so... but definatley before 3500. My turbo, which is much larger than yours makes 15psi by 3500 and 19 by 4000.
Tunning could definately be hurting spool, or the hardware itself could not be working together.
Find out what trim your turbin wheel is for sure. Hopefully it's a "P' trim. If for some strange reason it's a 'Q" that could explaing some of it. Also, what manifold are you running? That will affect spool as well.
Is your exhaust mandrel bent? What does the piping comming out of the turbo look like?
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Ok, I have a very similar setup to4b with a .6 and 1.15 ar's. I also have a rb streetported motor. Now it depends on what gear, but I see boost at about 3700 or so in 2nd and 3rd. 4th and 5th are sooner, 1st is about 5 grand or later. I am also only running 6psi. I just got a standalone and am going to order a different wg spring. What is a good boost pressure to run w/ this turbo. I mean what is its sweet spot. I have 1600cc secondaries so fuel is no problem. I am going to run a microtech ltx8 w/ msd ignition. i was thinking right around 16psi.
Oh, I have 2.25 ic piping, and my power is great top end. I run low 13s on my stock computer @6psi ....sorry no dyno sheet yet.
Oh, I have 2.25 ic piping, and my power is great top end. I run low 13s on my stock computer @6psi ....sorry no dyno sheet yet.
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Re: Re: my dyno results, why didnīt get more??
Originally posted by hIGGI
2" piping is what is killing your power (and probably spool) but it makes high torque number.....
U should be running 3" piping all the way.....
2" piping is what is killing your power (and probably spool) but it makes high torque number.....
U should be running 3" piping all the way.....
Donīt you think 3" piping is a little too big? If the piping is too big, doesnīt it make turbo more laggy? Would 2,5" piping be better for my setup?
Iīd be happy if I could see full boost at 4000rpm, is it possible?
#36
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Originally posted by Faster Is Faster
It makes not different is it on or off. Not more power(maybe a few hp) or more lag. It keeps spark plugs clean, thats almost only benefit of it.
it sprays 250ml/min and comes along at 0,5bar boost pressure. I have 3 different size injectors for it but havenīt got a chance to try two of them.
It makes not different is it on or off. Not more power(maybe a few hp) or more lag. It keeps spark plugs clean, thats almost only benefit of it.
it sprays 250ml/min and comes along at 0,5bar boost pressure. I have 3 different size injectors for it but havenīt got a chance to try two of them.
You don't just start spraying water in the intake and expect gains. You need to tune the water just like you do fuel.
Sounds like you should keep it off until you get this problem figured out.
Where is the injection nozzle?
James
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Originally posted by Wankel7
So you spent all that money on an Aquamist setup to keep your sparkplugs clean?
You don't just start spraying water in the intake and expect gains. You need to tune the water just like you do fuel.
Sounds like you should keep it off until you get this problem figured out.
Where is the injection nozzle?
James
So you spent all that money on an Aquamist setup to keep your sparkplugs clean?
You don't just start spraying water in the intake and expect gains. You need to tune the water just like you do fuel.
Sounds like you should keep it off until you get this problem figured out.
Where is the injection nozzle?
James
injection nozzle is about 4" from the rubber bend just before TB in IC piping and it has a pressure switch to control it. I donīt see any harm to keep it on. Or is there?
#39
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keep it on there just play with it a bit and find out what right for your car.. but for sure get a boost controller on there it will help things lots.. i just use a plain manual turbo xs one and its fien just set it ater whatever like 13psi in your case and forget it.. that is plenty of power but look at your AFR's and i am sure you can squeeze some more outta there.. and this is on the stock ECU? go grab a microtech or something!
#40
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Originally posted by Faster Is Faster
I bought the aquamist before my FMIC and it was a big help THEN but now I have bigger IC and it make aquamist less useful.
injection nozzle is about 4" from the rubber bend just before TB in IC piping and it has a pressure switch to control it. I donīt see any harm to keep it on. Or is there?
I bought the aquamist before my FMIC and it was a big help THEN but now I have bigger IC and it make aquamist less useful.
injection nozzle is about 4" from the rubber bend just before TB in IC piping and it has a pressure switch to control it. I donīt see any harm to keep it on. Or is there?
You can also run leaner AFR's.
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Originally posted by eViLRotor
Your aquamist is still very usefull. It reduces intake and combustion charge temperature. You can run more boost, more aggressive timing and make more power.
You can also run leaner AFR's.
Your aquamist is still very usefull. It reduces intake and combustion charge temperature. You can run more boost, more aggressive timing and make more power.
You can also run leaner AFR's.
[B]keep it on there just play with it a bit and find out what right for your car.. but for sure get a boost controller on there it will help things lots.. i just use a plain manual turbo xs one and its fien just set it ater whatever like 13psi in your case and forget it.. that is plenty of power but look at your AFR's and i am sure you can squeeze some more outta there.. and this is on the stock ECU? go grab a microtech or something![B]
Who make good boost controller? How easily can I adjust my boost with it? Is it just "pushing buttons"?
I should propably go to dyno to find out my AFR and then tune it. What is safe AFR that can be use on rotary engine->how low can I go without KABOOM?
I have F-con+gcc now, Iīd like to get haltech but itīs so damn expensive(install included) that I canīt afford it.
Last edited by Faster Is Faster; 06-22-04 at 01:30 PM.
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Originally posted by $150FC
A standalone would help.
What RPM was your max torque at? I don't see any way you put 400tq to the ground.
2" intercooler piping is too small, eh?
A standalone would help.
What RPM was your max torque at? I don't see any way you put 400tq to the ground.
2" intercooler piping is too small, eh?
How much a standalone would help? Iīve always though that with my setup 400rwhp would be possible. Iīd be very happy to get 350rwhp.
I know now i need bigger IC piping etc but still is it possible?
#44
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Originally posted by Faster Is Faster
Who make good boost controller? How easily can I adjust my boost with it? Is it just "pushing buttons"?
Who make good boost controller? How easily can I adjust my boost with it? Is it just "pushing buttons"?
Yes, basically raising your boost above wastegate spring pressure is just pushing buttons with a BC. You adjust the duty cycle of the wastegate and the gain on the solenoid to get the boost presssure you want and the boost response you like.
A boost controller not only raises your boost, but gives you a much steeper boost curve, over just running the wastegate spring. Boost comes one a lot quicker and it will hold your desired boost longer.
Originally posted by Faster Is Faster
I should propably go to dyno to find out my AFR and then tune it. What is safe AFR that can be use on rotary engine->how low can I go without KABOOM?
I should propably go to dyno to find out my AFR and then tune it. What is safe AFR that can be use on rotary engine->how low can I go without KABOOM?
Tuning fuel is easy. The key to getting the most power and the best response out of your setup is IGNITION TIMING. That is where a good tuner, with rotary knowledge can make a world of difference.
I know how much more responsive my car has gotten, just by adjusting the timing maps on my car, especially the midrange power.
But there is a fine line that a good tuner knows not to cross
----
And yes, a T04B 60-1 should get you 400whp between 15-17psi with good tuning...
#45
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How much ignition timing can be adjusted? I`ve heard thereīs a limit but donīt remember what it is. Is there a lot of differents between tuning a rotary and piston engine(AFR,timing etc)? The reason Iīm asking is that in my country (finland) here is less than 50 rx7 in the hole country and less than 20 TII. There is ONE guy in the hole F* country who knows alot of rx7 and luckily I know his very well but Iīm sure He is the best man for tuning.
On the other hand this another guy is a real specialist with piston engine but has never tuned an rx7.Who would be better to tune my car?
On the other hand this another guy is a real specialist with piston engine but has never tuned an rx7.Who would be better to tune my car?
Last edited by Faster Is Faster; 06-23-04 at 04:02 AM.
#47
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Originally posted by RETed
If you're running the stock ECU, don't mess with the ignition timing.
-Ted
If you're running the stock ECU, don't mess with the ignition timing.
-Ted
What a about the tuning issue? To whom should I take my car tu be tuned?
#48
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Originally posted by Faster Is Faster
First post on this thread, No Iīm not running the stock ECU. I have HKS F-con and GCC.
What a about the tuning issue? To whom should I take my car tu be tuned?
First post on this thread, No Iīm not running the stock ECU. I have HKS F-con and GCC.
What a about the tuning issue? To whom should I take my car tu be tuned?
The HKS F-CON + GCC does not replace the stock ECU.
You need to reread my replies; the 720 secondaries is not enough fuel injector capacity to support over 300 to the wheels. I bet the fuel injectors are locking up.
-Ted
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Originally posted by RETed
You're a bit confused.
The HKS F-CON + GCC does not replace the stock ECU.
You need to reread my replies; the 720 secondaries is not enough fuel injector capacity to support over 300 to the wheels. I bet the fuel injectors are locking up.
-Ted
You're a bit confused.
The HKS F-CON + GCC does not replace the stock ECU.
You need to reread my replies; the 720 secondaries is not enough fuel injector capacity to support over 300 to the wheels. I bet the fuel injectors are locking up.
-Ted
And yes I agree that 720 is not enough if I go for more hp. Iīm running at 11psi now but planning to go 14psi. Then I need more fuel and itīs coming. i was thinking 2x550 extra injectors because itīs going to be sheaper than 1100cc secondaries. How much Haltech cost? I really would like to go there but donīt know can I afford it yet.
...and what about the tuning issue again..?
#50
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if the GCC can only tune 15% then you cant run 1100 secondaries..... well i guess you could but you will never be able to tune them.
The f-con is for stock injectors.... it says it on the site. I read thats why they made the gcc only tune 15% to discurage people from using it for what it is not designed for.
The f-con is for stock injectors.... it says it on the site. I read thats why they made the gcc only tune 15% to discurage people from using it for what it is not designed for.