Anytime...enabler.
-a

 

I have a plan It involves ducting that generally isn't where ducting is. However I PM'ed with an "aviator" about the aero involved with it and he seems to think it'll work. I'll post some pics when it's done. That'll be a while though. Probably a few months as it'll happen when the manis' are being ceramic coated and the bay is being sprayed

I LOVE that OME kit. The ride is stiff but forgiving. Smooth but not "rolly" like a Caddy. It rides better than stock and the travel is damn good. I'd rec it, definately. Added bonus, any date that's about 5'6" or under needs crawl up, bend over and turn around to get in. I was going to build some rockrails which could also be used as steps..... I may hold off.

My rear swingout I built using 2"x4" nominal x 1/4" thick rectangular tubing. The thing WEIGHS & then add a 31" mudder hanging of the back, it added a LOT of weight to the rear. Worst part is, the weights as far off center as possible. In talking with the gent that put the kit together (OME doesn't have "kits" so to speak, the have recomendations and you put it together yourself) he suggested adding an OME helper spring. A pair runs $50 and it should boost the rear a bit as well as slightly increase the spring rate to help with the small amount of waggle that I get in the rear when loaded and 22 gallons of fuel. I built the swingout with a provision for a 5 Gal jerry which whould add another ~40lbs out back so with that on, I'd definately need a little more spring. I bought everything from Dirk @ DPGoffroad.com. The guy knows his stuff. The most knowledgeable Jeep suspension guy that I've ever come across. Without a doubt.

I'm assuming about another 1/2 hour than?

 

Well TTT I am still jealous of you at the moment so kthanxbye

 

Your oil cooler setup throws me into a jealous baby-punching rage!

 

Awesome. Can't wait to see it!

 

Bingo-bango and thanks for the heads up on that Mr. Cake. You know I've been trying to bring my oil temps down after going FMIC for awhile now. I've addressed the ducting and If I find that temps are still high - I'm going V-Rod.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HARLE...41110005r14769

Nice work Titanium. I look forward to seeing your results. I have a question with the Hella Horns. What model number are they? I've glass beaded 2 sets of horns and I keep blowing the diapram no matter how careful I am.

 

lol



I'll tell you about it in a few when I respond to the Jeeper PM

Thanks. I'm curious too, becuase that means after 23 months she'll be moving under her own power.

I believe they are http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=hla-003399801 those. Nice horns... they command respect.

 

Thanks for the reply...I've placed my order on the Hellas!

 

Sorry to thread jack, but do you have a sound clip of these horns?

 

Brian, let me know when you finish everything up with this set up, I want to copy it over to the Fabrication section and clean up the thread and create an "Archive" of cool Fabbing jobs.

 

Schweet. Will do Justin. I think it's almost done. Won't get final pics until everythings painted/coated though which will in all honesty take a while..... sadly. But I'll update it again. Need to adress some ducting as well.

 

sorry if ive missed it through the thread but what dash fittings are you using.

thanks

 

-10an Simon

 

cool thanks

i noticed with the Mocal oil stat they list the connectors as -10JIC

is that the same??

 

yes. both have a 37* connection angle.

 

cool thanks heaps guys

 

I like that setup, but its too pricey for me. I think I'll cut front bumper molding and mount my oil cooler there. Is your motor stock porting?

 

Nice to see progress on the setup TTT, I love it, as always!

 

Yeah, I never understood why two different named connections where the same?

Thanks Pal

If you do cut the front bumper molding you'll probably need to duct it really well. I suppose a second option would be to mount it up close to the lower opening of the front bumper and just open up the area between the signals to get some more flow in there.

For now it's completely "stock" as far as I can tell. I didn't crack the motor open because the compression was great ~107/105 iirc, and the exhaust sleeves were already swapped to the TII/REW sleeves which is why I say "stock." From what I could see of the ports down the runners, they didn't look molested at all. Which is fine for me becuase I'm focusing more on manners than hp even though ultimately I want to see 425+ to the wheels. If I ever do rebuild it, the porting will be SO VERY minor.

 

So what is up with this makeshift rebar assembly you have going on here that you ripped on me about when I brought up that V-mount thread? Jk man. Everything looks great... although i would like to see more pictures of what you did with your rebar setup and v-mount frame.

[/QUOTE]

 

they actually are different, but they will work together just fine. there are very minor differences like fillet radii and finish specifications.

limbar85, I don't see any re-bar on this car. just carbon steel tubing.

 

Sorry, I was just referring to the reinforcement bumper. I just call it the rebar and didn't mean concrete rebar.

 

ah, i see.

 

Brian got canned? What's the story?