TitaniumTT

I've gotten a bunch of PM's in the last few days regarding this setup so I figured I would share some details as opposed to responding to the same PM over and over. This is pretty much taken directly from TEAMFC3S.org

Here we have the basic oil cooler. A Mocal 235 x 16 row. There is also some Schd 40 1" 6061 pipe and some pieces that I cut out of some 6061 3/16 plate. To bad Hondakiller wasn't closer - spent a lil over an hour on cutting those 8 pieces. But - this is what we start with



To make sure that everything fits all nicey nice and is lined up I clamped them into the cooler so I could get my tack on before popping them out and finish welding them





I decided to just tap the AL itself rather than use bolts thru the AL. They are really only there for decoration and piece of mind. Once they are mounted it would take ALOT for them to get out. You see what I mean in the next few pics

TitaniumTT

So after a whole bunch of time measuring and remeasuring and double checking my re-measureing I welded a tab onto the outer bracket and bolted it in place. At this point I'm making sure the cooler is nice & level and tacking on the other tab. The inner bracket bolts to the bottom of the framerail while the outter bolts to the feder support.



Decent shot of both coolers and the associated plumbing. Yes they are in series & I have my reasons. You can see the red caps on the Mocal Oil T-stat. In the first iteration I was short 2 90*s. I ended up using straits, couplets & 90's



Drivers side cooler. I think I need to move the horns a lil



Drivers outer mount. Give a REALLY good reference as to where it's all mounted



Nice head on shot showing both coolers and the Griffin Rad. I don't have an air-compressor as of yet so I need to grab one before I can get the bumper mounted again. Then I'll get some pics of that but this should give a really good idea of what I did.

It also really shows the difference between the FD and the FC front ends and why the oil coolers can't fit in like the FD's do

TitaniumTT

Time to tuck the lines away a little

Heres what I've got.... I ordered these pieces from summit. Billet hose seperators but I want to mount them to the front so the first thing I did was drill out the threads and buy longer bolts. Then I measured the diameter of the nut - 3/8's





so I drilled where I wanted it to be, welded it in place and ground everything flush - instant bung. When your done welding it in place it is a REALLY good idea to chase the treads so the bolt doesn't gaul in there.



Here's a shot from underneath where you can see a little better where they are mounted and T-Stat as well, in the first iteration when the VMIC wasn't interfering with it. This is the best place I could put it because of the rad and the supports, until I cut them all away and moved it farther forward that is



The completed setup, the first time araound. Everythings run and tucked away. Me go sleepy now and dream about where to mount Hella Horns in the morning

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

looks great good job.

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

still sexy!

you get that thing running yet?

rowtareh?

iTrader: (1)

Nice work Brian. I have to pick your brain about something, you got a PM.

TitaniumTT

So what I ended up doing was cutting the factory frame support that the factory oil cooler mounted to in order to make room for some stuff. I built a thing that mounts to the frame rails a little higher and farther forward than the original support. This interferred with the original location of the T-Stat. I had to build a mount which is actually stronger than the mocals, redo the lines from the motor, and then extend the lines from the T-Stat to the front. In order to get as tight of a bend as possible I had to run a strait from the T-Stat to another strait, to a male to male coupler and then back to the original lines going to the coolers. I'm not a fan of the couplers but couldn't really find a better solution. What I may do...... NAH, it's too sexy to talk about. I'm just going to do it and brag about it later

Regardless, shitty pic but you can see the right fitting to get when using the RE-Speed adapter is the 90*, not the 130* like I had originally thought.



Here you can see the T-Stat mounted from the top



And the T-Stat mounted from the bottom.



Total parts list includes but is not limited to
Mocal coolers - $140 * 2 = $280
Mocal T-Stat - $95
Fittings - 90deg * 5 @ $15.85 = $80
Stait * 5 = $50
Couplers * 2 $20ish
15' Stainless Hose - $105
10" Nomex Fabric hose - $100 I think
Total - $730

TitaniumTT

Thanks Adam

Thanks Cliff. Yeah, she actually started right the **** up last tuesday I think. I have a few things to finsih up, I need a pilot bearing, and then I'll be off to get about 500 miles on the tick before I blow everything apart for paint and ceramic coating, and get a new primary cartidge. Although, the thin makes boost as is In a week or so I should have her off the stands and tooling around the neighborhood a little.

On a different note, I FINALLY dl'ed those pics of the Acusump and they'll be at your home addy in a few. Gimme a shout or send me an e-mail if ya want

Not yet Justin, but ask away.

Battle Cat

iTrader: (78)

******* SWEEETT TTT

i hope to run something similar to this on my RE GTUs build..... glad to see you made this niice little write up... saved me a lot of trouble.. now i just have to find the right v-mount set up lol

killahrx7

nice setup but i used 2 rx8 coolers which turns out much cheaper and probably has the same effects.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Nicely thought out, as usual.

I noticed that in the second thermostat mount you used button head Allens on the bracket. My experience with those shallow hexes is that they tend to fill with crud and are a pain to get good key engagement in.
Just a nit, really.

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Beautiful work. What size AN is all that stuff?

need-a-t2

iTrader: (9)

looks like -10AN to me...

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

It is great to see an FC owner fabricating so much of his own stuff, I am jealous!

Why did you choose to place your oil coolers way out up front right behind the bumper?

It would seem to me if you placed them back against the front of the wheel housing they would be much better protected from "minor" collisions and debris as well as allowing for an actual duct leading to the cores for better penetration. Mounting becomes a lot easier as well and you have centralized some mass a tad.

When you have cores so far forward the airflow hits it and flows around the edges, whereas when you have a deep duct almost all of the airflow that enters is forced through the core even at low speeds.

TitaniumTT

Thank ya much. I always go with the button heads for aesthetic purposes. Much easier on the eyes. Key engagement can be solved with a blast of compressed air and installing them is much easier IMO. Not to mention if I have ANY oil leaks I am going to go ******* ballistic. I HATE crushwashers. They can all die painful deaths.

^ right as usual

Thanks Ian, I mounted them there for ease of plumbing, mounting, and, believe it or not, ducting. There is no need to duct with them right there. See pic below. As for minor collisions - there is a piece of 1.75" DOM steel between the two vents on the bumper mounted to .125" channel steel on an angle to allow it to bend easier. The bumper won't flex before that steel does and if I'm in a collision like that, it's either my own fault or someone backed into me and well, yeah.

The bumper vents are going to be sealed around the core as well. I need to do a little bit of glasswork to extent the openings to the core. Nothing too big at all. I'm not anticipating any oil temp problems. If I have them, well, that's more than half the fun of these cars for me any way. Fabbin' **** to solve problems created by motors/turbos/trannies that were never meant to be in the car in the first place

dawicka2

A work of art. Really really nice work. All the "cooling helpers" look amazing behind that bumper cover.

john ny

Mr.FC3s

This car looks sick with the bumper mounted. And might I add that I am jealous?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That looks great!

Are you going to run a fan behind one (or both) of the coolers?

If so, look at the OEM fans for the Harley Davidson V-rod. You'll be shocked at how well they fit both the FC stock cooler and probably the ones you've upgraded to as well.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

They probably leak oil.

RacerJason

iTrader: (5)

^ Huhn?

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Harley joke.

TitaniumTT

^

Thanks

You may

Thanks Aaron. Only going to run fans if I need to and will start with only one. I don't anticipate any problems with oil cooling though. The cores combined are bigger than the FC and FD's and unless tracked heavily, there are really no problems. With no real concrete data to rely on we are left guessing. I am guessing that a reason for heat soak, or over heating is the proximity of the various heat exchangers. From the onset of this project I have been trying to avoid problems that others have had. I think with the oil coolers as far awat from the rad as they are, and with thier own source of fresh well ducted ambient air, they will be fine. At least I am hoping. I have yet to move this car under it's own power so this is still all theory. Not to mention when it does move under it's own power it will be winter. So at least I'll have some time to solve other problems before the oil temps even become one. I have one remianing output on my M820 that I was hoping to save before I need an expansion box, but if I need to, I can use it to trigger an oilcooler fan if need be.

Don't even joke about that - PLEASE! I already found 3 pretty lame coolant leaks and one oil leak cuased by a loose fitting The oil system seems to be fine thus far. If there are any leaks on this sled whatsoever, I am going to go batshit insane. The first drop will be reason enough to pull the motor to find it if necessary. ****, I'm even using AN fittings on a bunch of coolant lines to prevent leaks and make it easier to take them apart.

TitaniumTT

Update
So there were alot of issues with the lines where they made the hard 90 to run parellel with the frame rail. There was really no way to secure them becuase of the VMIC mounting and the 90*s and the fact that there were couplers there was really pissing me off. So I did something about it.

This is what we started with. The viod was cut back slightly in the very first fitting to allow for the T-Stat. That got moved. There's alot of empty space there that needs to be filled. The worst part is, it's on two different planes



That first "filler" piece was 1/4" thick plate cut to fit in there all nicey nice



Then we took a sheet of 16ga sheet and templetated it up, cut it out, bent it to fit on the face and wrap up and around the support.



We drilled out the two holes that we needed for the bulkhead fittings



From behind you can see how frickin tight the lines are in there. PITA and there is an order to removal. But at least they're AN and easy to deal with.



Remember that 120* fitting that I originally had for the pedastal? Well it got a new home, in fact I needed to buy another $32 fitting for both of them. One interfered with the cooler line, the other was too tight and pulled against the retainer when I had a 90* on it. AN **** gets expensive.

TitaniumTT

Boooooo 6 pic limit

BTW - can't take all the credit. The "we" was sunshine & I, thanks... addict

Just one more shot

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

So what're ya gonna do about brake cooling?

Off topic but:

I see you have a Jeep, how do you like that OME lift?