R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

the electric fan is off of a pontiac fiero bein rear engine car it needed a powerful fan and it flows plenty fo cfm surprisingly it does not draw much amperage i have it wired up with a 30 amp fure right now through the thermostat and have not blown it meaning the initial cranking amps did not excede that 30 amps im not sure what year that fiero was but search and ull be able to find out on here

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

o ya man i hear that, exactly why i did this mod lol and ill get more pics up here shortly heres soem i have already on the comp a little older (before the swap) all in all this car will forever be a work in progress

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

thanks and to tell the truth i have no idea whats up with the shocks. the owner before me did that (about the only thing he did) it must be some sort of lowering attempt lol it worked whatever he did the hood JUST clears them and thats about the only thing i didnt paint i forgot to

cbrinega

Wow! That is looking good. I'd love to do something like that to my hood eventually. What kind of engine/turbo setup do you have?

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

glad you like. glad you asked. the engine is not ported but it does have higher compression n/a rotors. and the turbo is a s4 turbo and the waste gate is ported. the housings and irons are painted in ceramic paint and the lim and uim are powdercoated white. along with coolant neck and alot of other parts. most everything is powder coated under the hood. the whole light pop up assembly is powder coat. basicly anythign small enough to fit in the oven that wouldnt get damaged by heat is powder. soon to get a msd ignition box and safc fuel management computer. some heat wrap for the exhaust would be nice too it gets toasty in there with the carpet taken out and replaced with rubberized under coating

bah12

very nice man. where did u get the top brace with the rotors cut in it or did u make it.
and please post the wiring details on the alt, thats nice , never would have thought of
a Buick alt. did u powercoat the parts or have it done.

Denholm

I hate to burst your bubble.. But I believe your seat clashes with the rest of your interior.

Just kidding man, very clean car - props on the nice hood too!

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

the top brace i have no information on. when i bought the car it was like that. im just as curious as you. i have no idea where it came from and i didnt think to ask. in the past ive asked around seeing if anyoen has seen one like it before and all ive got it no. im thinking he did it himself. if so its hard to tell, he did a good job. the brace and the weird frotn struts along with the exhaust setup on the car is all the guy had done to it. in a bit im going to post some more pictures of the exhaust and the engine bay before i even got my hands on it btw the exhaust was straight piped back from the manifold to the flow through muffler on the back. needless to say it makes a roar. i liek it like that haha and ya i do my own powdercoating

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

haha no joke man that maroon color.... im in need of some seats. another thing on my list. and if im goin to get seats im going to get a 4pt harness and if im getin a 4 pt harness im goin to fabricate myself a rear strut tower because ya.. spinal compression... ill pass

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

The only concerns I have with this mod are these.......
How much abuse can this alternator take with only one bolt holding it up, meaning what type of HARD driving will it endure before coming lose?
The other concern is how will that Buick alternator hold up to continuous 8k rpm shifts? After all it was only designed to see at most 5k rpm

There is no way that alternator will last on an RX7 for very long. I personally have torn through several alternators new and used because of hard driving. Think about it for a second, that alternator has to be able to take the punishment of high revs and high heat. Again there is no way a GM alternator off a Buick could withstand that over time. The money you are saving upfront with this mod is going to be short lived when you continually need to replace it. Therefore in the long run I personal think the FD alternator would be the way to go just because it would be cheaper in those aspects.
BUT hey I could be wrong!
Other than that, you have a very well put together engine bay!!!!

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

You anit kiddin

If you want I have a complete Auto Power 6 point roll cage Im thinking about selling.

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious.. How did you go about making that, and would you have done anything else differently? I like it alot! Nice job!

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

u have good points, and i wont claim to to have the knowledge to prove you wrong on any of them. I do know that the dual alternator pully i have on there is under driven though. so that alternator is not seeing the same revolution per crank pully revolution as the stock alternator was. i dotn knwo to what percent recuction it is. i think its too underdriven for even that alternator. it doesnt charge at idle very well ~750 rpm it inches closer to 12 volts on the meter. i havent had it on there too long and havent high reved it at all (450 miles on break in) to see if it would break or burn up. and that hood does such a good job of cooling the enging bay i can come home park it prop the hood and no longer does a wave of hot air come flying at my face. its probly operating at arround the same temps as the one in my grandmas buick lol. but liek i said i dont know. if your interested i'd ask around to some of the other guys who have this on their cars longer than i have to see if they picked up any defects along the way.

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

hmm thats a good question. to start off. that aluminum hood is very thin. i got a marker and a level and straight edge oh ya and a sharpie. marked out the plan i drew up on cad. i didnt use a cutting wheel i used a razor blade. it takes alot of strokes to cut through all the way but it was a clean cut in the end. wouldn't recoment a razor on steel hood ofcorse lol but for the other half of ur question the only thing i MIGHT of dont diffrently was use aircraft rivets that sink themselves flush with the surface and then maybe bondo over that sand it then paint. all in all the hood was a easy project because i cept it simple it took 2 days to do and by the 3rd day sanded and i painted it i can post skreenshot of the simple cad drawing i made

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

sence it seems there are alot of people interested in my car i thought id post what all is done to it

-87 turbo II engine rebuilt with 86 N/a rotors and s4 turbo trany
-no emissions/cats or idle control
-throttle body mod
-rear mounded 1000 amp battery behind passenger seat in compartment (rear seats replaced with compartments)
-electric fan
-grounding kit from ebay mounted to passenger side firewall
-grounded exhaust pipe for o2 sensor
-strut tower
-after market enkei rims yokohama parada tires 205/40/17
-short shifter
-interior carpet riped out replaced by rubberized under coating
-2.5 inch exhaust from manifolt to muffler stright
-push button ignition pannel with fuel pump toggle and round key for "on"
-fm modulator mounted in center of steering wheel flush. usb cord ran from modulator to ignition pannel under sterio to plug jump drive into
-the hood ofcorse
-sloted and drilled brake rotors nickle plated
-window tint
-gm alt
-3 pod pillar mount with boost gauge
-oil catch can

soon: real intake piping
seats and harness
rear strut tower
sacf-2
radiator plate for airflow
lsd rear end. thats right i still have the n/a diff




theres more thats all i could think of off the top of my head

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Umm, the stock one is held up by one bolt on the tension adjusting side? how is having the exact same thing inferior?

Keith covered this with the underdrive pulley....and regardless of engine speed the alternator was designed to work at a certain internal RPM - the pulley size dictates that - so using an underdrive pulley will take care of this. Not to mention if your car is seeing 8,000 rpm that much more than it is seeing idle, Id be more worried about water pump cavitation then burning out a 50 dollar alternator.


Actually that GM alternator is pretty robust, and the RX-7' ideal running temp of 180 degrees is the same as the buick, the argument of more heat is moot.


Your concerns are valid but I believe you'll have decent longevity from the alternator for sure.

trueimport

iTrader: (8)

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicauto

Umm, the stock one is held up by one bolt on the tension adjusting side? how is having the exact same thing inferior?

No he is only using 1 bolt not 2 in fact it is inferior

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicauto

Keith covered this with the underdrive pulley....and regardless of engine speed the alternator was designed to work at a certain internal RPM - the pulley size dictates that - so using an underdrive pulley will take care of this. Not to mention if your car is seeing 8,000 rpm that much more than it is seeing idle, Id be more worried about water pump cavitation then burning out a 50 dollar alternator.

Sorry I forgot that he had the under drive pulley. I understand that the alternator RPM is not actual crank RPM but none the less the GM alternator was not designed to spin as fast as an RX7. I understand that 8k RPM is higher than idle BUT at the same time it only takes ONE 8k pull for the alternator bearing to seize. I wouldn’t worry about the water pump considering it was meant to be on a rotary and built to see 8k RPM not a grammas Buick at idle. I DO hope this mod works for him, I have never heard of anybody using a GM alternator so I thought I would put up some concerns before I put my money on it, that’s ALL.

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicauto

Keith Actually that GM alternator is pretty robust, and the RX-7' ideal running temp of 180 degrees is the same as the buick, the argument of more heat is moot.

Are you saying that the temp out put of a Buick is the same as a turbo?? The engine internal temp SURE I can see that being around the same as the Buick nut come on I would LOVE to see you say that the hot side of a turbo gets to only be 180 degrees! I’m sorry but red hot metal is not 180 degrees.

The point I was trying to make was not operation temp it was under hood temps. I was also not trying to pinpoint Keith and his set up because he obviously can dissipate the heat rater well with his hood. I was more or less speaking about the mod in general because not everybody has as low under hood temps as Keith due to them having stock hoods.

Quote:

Originally Posted by classicauto

Your concerns are valid but I believe you'll have decent longevity from the alternator for sure.

Are you saying that from experience? I hope so.

Twofer

Hmm? How do you powder coat your own stuff?

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

its easy i got a ebay powder coater for 120 dollars i think it was. i was sceptical but i saw a guy i kno had one and saw what he did with it. it was the harbor freight one, its yellow. also you can buy any color of powder you want on ebay even kamelean (sp) in as much as you want and its very cheep. i got a 5 pound bag of 120% gloss black for 20 dollars. i did some figuring because before i got that 5 pound bag i went to sears and got a little 6 oz bag of signal blue package said it will cover 7 square feet and thats only 6 oz. the 5 pound bag will cover over 2 football fields of square surface area. other then the powder coater you need an old kitchen oven perferably electric so fumes dont explode. one that you can just put in your grauge. oh ya and store the powder bags in a frige.. it wont draw moisture that way. i made that mistake with my black and when i coat something it comes out of the oven speckled. looks kind of cool with faint white speckles but thats not what i want. so i got another bag. i did everything in that engine bay with about a hand full of powder. the bags still look full. lol anyway it is easy as painting with a spray can and it looks 10 times as good and more durable too

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

heres a picture of the brake rotors and the other is a picture of what the car looked like before i steped. in the engine bay pic that isnt powder coat on the tower that's paint and its ford blue instead of signal blue

1SxyRXy

looks just like my buddies FB hood.

tri_tam

what kind of car is for?
it fit fine in the rx7?
i can only find 2 pod pillar mount

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

that looks nice did he do that himself? looks professional

R_PROWESS

iTrader: (3)

its a cheapest universal one i could find on ebay. and no lol it does not fit well. i did alot of cutting and it still doesnt fit perfectly but works and looks good enouth for me

ErixHvn

Hey Keith, Could you make another reverse scoop for sale? I'd be interested in putting one on mine too if the price is right.